Brotha SparkyMaxx: Use diff lube for all you differentials. Mugen and GS are just a few of the manufactures that make them. For the lube: start off at 5000 frt/ 7000 center/ and 1000 rear. When your clutch shoes are toast, your car will engage at a slower rate. Buurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. :trashed:
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Brotha SparkyMaxx: Use diff lube for all you differentials. Mugen and GS are just a few of the manufactures that make them. For the lube: start off at 5000 frt/ 7000 center/ and 1000 rear. When your clutch shoes are toast, your car will engage at a slower rate. Buurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. :trashed:
Race Director
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I recently got hold of a swift (my 1st nitro) and I spent an evening making shims for the diffs (about 20 2 thou shims)
Manufacturing tolerances meant the standard setup wears the gears waay too fast so moving the gears closer together means I now have 3 diffs that should last quite a while
Steering is err, sedate to say the least, we need steering lock dudes, so the trusty dremel came out to carefully relieve the castor blocks where the steering balls mount, it's a lot better but the amount of caster would make a 2wd buggy understeer!!!
Anyone know of replacement top wishbones to reduce the caster?
I really like the car, stock radio gear is cack so a RTR without the radio gear please.
Quality is pretty good for a low end RTR, engine is not bad, plenty of tweakability for meddlers or experts alike and I'm sure I can get it to handle the way I like.
Shocks are good - threaded too.
The manual could do with some expert help, it's not just newbies buying this car after all Schumacher are distributing it (here in Great Britain) and they don't sell crap
It's a new experience for me learning how to get an IC up & running but hey it's fun (better than RealRace)
Manufacturing tolerances meant the standard setup wears the gears waay too fast so moving the gears closer together means I now have 3 diffs that should last quite a while
Steering is err, sedate to say the least, we need steering lock dudes, so the trusty dremel came out to carefully relieve the castor blocks where the steering balls mount, it's a lot better but the amount of caster would make a 2wd buggy understeer!!!
Anyone know of replacement top wishbones to reduce the caster?
I really like the car, stock radio gear is cack so a RTR without the radio gear please.
Quality is pretty good for a low end RTR, engine is not bad, plenty of tweakability for meddlers or experts alike and I'm sure I can get it to handle the way I like.
Shocks are good - threaded too.
The manual could do with some expert help, it's not just newbies buying this car after all Schumacher are distributing it (here in Great Britain) and they don't sell crap
It's a new experience for me learning how to get an IC up & running but hey it's fun (better than RealRace)
Race Director: I am glad you bought the car, and it seems that you overall impression is quite good. With that said here are some answers to your questions.
Top Arm: We are currently working on a new one and it is actually being tested as we speak. In the mean time, the top arm from a Mugen MBX4 is the best replacement I have tested.
Manual: we know the manual is a bit weak. Our website will be up soon with tips and setups for the car.
Radio: Actually for an RTR, I have heard this is the best radio combo. It is a 3 channel FM radio, which sell for 120 + in hobby stores. I agree that the steering servo might be weak, but all of them are to keep cost down.
Hope this helps.
Jose
Top Arm: We are currently working on a new one and it is actually being tested as we speak. In the mean time, the top arm from a Mugen MBX4 is the best replacement I have tested.
Manual: we know the manual is a bit weak. Our website will be up soon with tips and setups for the car.
Radio: Actually for an RTR, I have heard this is the best radio combo. It is a 3 channel FM radio, which sell for 120 + in hobby stores. I agree that the steering servo might be weak, but all of them are to keep cost down.
Hope this helps.
Jose
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The radio you get in the states IS a great piece of kit, however we in the UK made do with 2 channel sticks (which was a downer), but I got hold of a 3PJ for the job.
Like I said, the quality is up there with the likes of yokomo and for a first effort it cuts straight to the chase.
Looking forward to team setups & tips - way to go
I bought my swift on ebay (it was 3 months old but hardly used) with the intention of dual purpose i.e. on/offroad, but offroad is more enjoyable
Now I'm 45 and raced 25 years, the pressure is off to do well so this is great fun - which is what it was all about back in the 70's/early 80's
Like I said, the quality is up there with the likes of yokomo and for a first effort it cuts straight to the chase.
Looking forward to team setups & tips - way to go
I bought my swift on ebay (it was 3 months old but hardly used) with the intention of dual purpose i.e. on/offroad, but offroad is more enjoyable
Now I'm 45 and raced 25 years, the pressure is off to do well so this is great fun - which is what it was all about back in the 70's/early 80's
403forbidden
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HI guys, I just purchased a new Swift....from the 2nd batch (red & white body).
Other than breaking in the engine, is there anything I need to do to it before racing? I know there were some issues with the first batch of Swift's...were all these issues corrected with the 2nd batch? Thanks
Other than breaking in the engine, is there anything I need to do to it before racing? I know there were some issues with the first batch of Swift's...were all these issues corrected with the 2nd batch? Thanks
403forbidden
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thanks, I will check that out
By the way, does anyone know what type of wheels will fit on this car? Can I use wheels that will fit the Kanai or is it different?
THanks
boricuanitro
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Yes they will fit, any 17mm wheel will fit perfect.
SparkyMaxx
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Stuff to do
XXXZAYAS, Do the second run have the Diffs shimmed?
If not Forbidden, you will want to do that right away. I destroyed some diff gears do to them being too loose...
XXXZAYAS, Do the second run have the Diffs shimmed?
If not Forbidden, you will want to do that right away. I destroyed some diff gears do to them being too loose...
Race Director
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As we're improving a good car here:
one anoying thing for me is the positioning of the steering servo, it's waaay too big a job to change in a hurry, it needs to be mounted vertically so it's just a case of remove the 4 servo mounting screws then simply lift off of the mounting plate
what mounting plate fits the standard motor pullstart (I want to remove the pullstart & plug the hole) to use a starter box
one anoying thing for me is the positioning of the steering servo, it's waaay too big a job to change in a hurry, it needs to be mounted vertically so it's just a case of remove the 4 servo mounting screws then simply lift off of the mounting plate
what mounting plate fits the standard motor pullstart (I want to remove the pullstart & plug the hole) to use a starter box
boricuanitro
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The thing is, that the vertical steering servo raises the center of gravity of the car thus hampering handling a bit. The lay down servo lowers the cg and improves handling, and better handling should win out over convenience in a performance oriented buggy.
my
Race Director
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disagree.
Raising servo enables positioning as much weight to the centreline of the car as possible, this enables sharper handling, and as most of the weight of a servo is in the bottom of the casing, C.G. is raised to a negligible degree, but roll moments are reduced.
Positioning of the servo like this enables parallel servo arm/steering arm, so left/right steering is even (whereas at the moment I am finding 20% difference).
The other thing is, not all servos are the same size so won't fit the current moulding!
Front servo plate post would benefit from being metal too (too much movement at the moment)
I want to see this car as good as it gets, to get there it's got to be a dream to maintain.
Oh, what's the best plug for the stock motor? (I put in a cold plug this afternoon and it went great, 16% nitro - 200°F)
Raising servo enables positioning as much weight to the centreline of the car as possible, this enables sharper handling, and as most of the weight of a servo is in the bottom of the casing, C.G. is raised to a negligible degree, but roll moments are reduced.
Positioning of the servo like this enables parallel servo arm/steering arm, so left/right steering is even (whereas at the moment I am finding 20% difference).
The other thing is, not all servos are the same size so won't fit the current moulding!
Front servo plate post would benefit from being metal too (too much movement at the moment)
I want to see this car as good as it gets, to get there it's got to be a dream to maintain.
Oh, what's the best plug for the stock motor? (I put in a cold plug this afternoon and it went great, 16% nitro - 200°F)
403forbidden
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Ok I am almost finished breaking the motor in.
One question...are any of you guys using starter boxes?
I am tired of yanking on the pull start...the handle is too tiny for my big hands..I am used to the large handles on 1/5 scale motors LOL
One question...are any of you guys using starter boxes?
I am tired of yanking on the pull start...the handle is too tiny for my big hands..I am used to the large handles on 1/5 scale motors LOL
centerline (vertical) servo only amounts to more uncontrollable rotational mass in the air, the laydown= sure fire flattened out launching.. and mid-air travel, most cars can be set-up for handling any ground, but in-air stability is pretty key, just look at any car with verticaly mounted gear..
in air travel is a simplified version of what happens on-the-ground.....
if the car has a more overall vertical setting of its internals it will tend to have more uncontrollable suspension roll, more problems controlling rotational inertia thru air and on the ground,
a lower flatter , more horizontaly distributed mass = overall stability and handling will benefit ... simple logic pushed to ,, applied logic....
I don't know about you, but when I can just change an arm on a horizontally mounted servo and adjust the ackerman,, I'll take that vs' broken arms from 30 ' jumps and cartwheels...
or mute all that,, if you look at the way the overall vehicle is set-up, does the vertical or laydown servo equal out the weight of the car,, in this case the horiz servo does. just look at it..
Aluminum servo mounts would be trick.
whatever I guess, I'm just a paint guy.
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
in air travel is a simplified version of what happens on-the-ground.....
if the car has a more overall vertical setting of its internals it will tend to have more uncontrollable suspension roll, more problems controlling rotational inertia thru air and on the ground,
a lower flatter , more horizontaly distributed mass = overall stability and handling will benefit ... simple logic pushed to ,, applied logic....
I don't know about you, but when I can just change an arm on a horizontally mounted servo and adjust the ackerman,, I'll take that vs' broken arms from 30 ' jumps and cartwheels...
or mute all that,, if you look at the way the overall vehicle is set-up, does the vertical or laydown servo equal out the weight of the car,, in this case the horiz servo does. just look at it..
Aluminum servo mounts would be trick.
whatever I guess, I'm just a paint guy.
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
SparkyMaxx
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Shimming a diff
How do you shim a diff? I do not know from what I can tell. I have shimmed my Emaxx Tmaxx a couple of times each and had EXCELLENT Results. I have never had problems with any other diffs I have done. However I cannot shim this Swift to save my life.
What is the trick. It looks like I have now torn up those little rubber washers on the inside of the diff. Do I have to install all new gears and rubber washers to get the Diffs to quit eating themselfs and seazing?
:flaming:
I just want to go and make a few laps consectutively... Is it so much to ask?
Help!
How do you shim a diff? I do not know from what I can tell. I have shimmed my Emaxx Tmaxx a couple of times each and had EXCELLENT Results. I have never had problems with any other diffs I have done. However I cannot shim this Swift to save my life.
What is the trick. It looks like I have now torn up those little rubber washers on the inside of the diff. Do I have to install all new gears and rubber washers to get the Diffs to quit eating themselfs and seazing?
:flaming:
I just want to go and make a few laps consectutively... Is it so much to ask?
Help!