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PRP Swift

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How did Swift do at Sun Valley

YO,

Did Swift show a good race this past week ???

:burp: :burp: :burp:
 
I got an e-mail from Roger with Happy time today. He is sending all the stuff that was missed in the kit... As well as some new Diff gears... SWEET...

Is there a problem with the first run of diff gears? Just wondering.

Thanks Happy Time Great Customer Service!!!:dance:
 
Originally posted by SparkyMaxx
I got an e-mail from Roger with Happy time today. He is sending all the stuff that was missed in the kit... As well as some new Diff gears... SWEET...

Is there a problem with the first run of diff gears? Just wondering.

Thanks Happy Time Great Customer Service!!!:dance:
Click to expand...

Nah, no problem with the gears. Just remember to shim up your gears and you should be all good.
 
Sezied Center Differential

ok new problem. At the track today and I found that I was pealing out anytime I hit the throttle. I figured that I was just not hooking up. But it kept getting worse. almost like I lost my clutch.
I noticed that the center diff was spinning crooked. 8-0 I packed up and headed home.

Upon some investigation I found that the Center Diff Gears Screws were backed out a bit and that the diff was ceased and the drive cups were cocked. I pulled it apart and spun everything and it all worked inside. I reassembled it and it all seems to be operating properly. It spins straight.

Should I be conserned about this? I did not see any metal in the diff grease but??? Is this what shimming the diffs will prevent? Comments, Questions, Or Conserns?
 
As mentioned earlier and through-out the thread, shimming the diffs is a must regardless if its a RTR made from PRP or any other manufactured RTR. There are two areas where you can shim the gears. 1) shim the 2 large bevel gears. Place the shim underneath the set-pin. 2) Shim all 4 spider gears. I believe that Jose mentioned that he shimmed his spider gears. I have all the gears shimmed ( large and small bevel gears ). Maybe that's why I haven't gone through diff gears as much as other have.

Originally posted by nitro4mikey
YO,

Did Swift show a good race this past week ???

:burp: :burp: :burp:
Click to expand...

There was alot of 1/8th scale buggies out there including some of the newer kits being released ( thunder tiger, etc.... ). My swift did fairly well. I ran my novarossi P5 motor and it had plenty of power. The track was very slow in some areas and very fast in others. Lots of patience was required to do well around the track. From what track organizers said, the track is the best in all of California. The only thing that I broke on the car was a front lower a-arm and this was on thursday during practice. I got squirrely off a jump and landed on the left front wheel. The way I landed, it would've broke any lower front a-arm. You can goto www.usgaschamps.com and check out the track. For those of you that live in the Los Angeles area, you guys are soooo lucky to have a track like that !!! ( spoiled brats :jk: ).
 
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HP Invent, what are the part numbers for the diff shims as i believe I have the sme problem as Sparky. The only difference is my rear diff is hosed. (And the clutch is gone :( )

Once I get the shims I will shim all gears in all diff and be alright!!

Amen!!!
 
Originally posted by xtribe00
HP Invent, what are the part numbers for the diff shims as i believe I have the sme problem as Sparky. The only difference is my rear diff is hosed. (And the clutch is gone :( )

Once I get the shims I will shim all gears in all diff and be alright!!

Amen!!!
Click to expand...

There are a number of different 5mm shims that you can use from other manufactures. These are the part numbers: (I'm glad I stil have these for you guys :)

1) Power Racing Products: part # 61401 (six shims)
2) Mugen Seiki: part # C0227 ( this has the most shims 25 )
3) Yokomo: part # ZC-S50S ( various thicknesses 18 shims )

As for the clutch, I have the black mugen clutch shoes. You can use almost any manufacture clutch shoes cause they are all compatable.

Hope this helps.
 
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Guys,
I pulled apart the diffs and I got ground metal in the rear and front. Looking at the larger gear(not the spyders) they are both very worn down in both diffs. The result of not being shimed I guess. I have replacement gears and I have shims.

Can I shim infront of that pin on the inside on top of the rubber washer? I did and that seems the best way to get them running smooth

Now for the grease... What do I put in to lube it all. I have some stuff I got from my Unlimited Engineering Diffs for the E-Maxx. Will that work?

What do I use when I stick it back into the diff housing?

HELP. Need to be running by the weekend.
 
Originally posted by HP Invent
Mike: I had a six pack of MGD ready for you :cheers: :beer: :burp:
Click to expand...

I was fishing the Marina Del Rey Halibut derby... I did want to go and meet you. I honestly did.

Maybe next race I will come to your area. I bring the 6 pack. COORS is the beer. hahaha

Read ur pm as well.
 
Ok what else should I do now that the entire car is apart. Should I be looking at the clutch bell? How do you tell if it is still good? What are the bennifets of replacing it.

I am going to get some new shoes in the morning and put them in, that is no biggie though.

I got all the Diffs shimmed now I just need to know if that UE Diff Grease will work.

I am rebuilding shocks just for fun.
 
sounds like your diffs are properly shimmed. I use, as well as others on this messege board diff lube. Go 5000 frt/7000ctr/ and 1000rear. If your going to change out the clutch shoes, get some mugen black clutch shoes. They seem to last alot longer than other clutch shoe in the market. You can also try GS or kyosho. Remember, all 3 shoe clutches are compatable with the swift.

Since you have the car apart, you might as well check the CVJ center drive shafts. Remove one-set screw and tightned down the other set screw and loc-tite it down.

If your gonna change the oil in your shocks, use 60 wght in front and 50 wght in the rear.
 
I have done all the CVJ Stuff. Where are the clutch shoes? Are they inside the bell on the end of the motor? This is my first 1/8 sorry if it is a stupid question...
 
What is in the Diff between main Drive gear connected to the CVJ and the big gear on the diff. What lube should I use there?

How do you tell if the shoes are good?
 
Originally posted by SparkyMaxx
What is in the Diff between main Drive gear connected to the CVJ and the big gear on the diff. What lube should I use there?

How do you tell if the shoes are good?
Click to expand...

SparkeyMaxx: The main drive gear is also considered as the steel pinion gear (part # 11612) that's located in the diff. housing. The big gear on the diff is called the steel ring gear ( this can be found in your manuel on page 2). The center differential ( located in the center of the car ) has a metal spur gear that drives the clutch bell ( 13 teeth ), which is engage by your 3 shoe clutch shoes connected to your motor. You can tell if your shoes are good by the way the car engages as you take off from a starting position.
 
Sorry for missing in action, I was on business travel, let me know if I can help you guys with anything.

JZ
 
HP,
Thanks for that fine rendition of the transmission! :clap:
Sorry that smile was just calling to me.

I still need to know what lube to put in there.

Also what does it do when the car starts off to indicate a problem with the shoes. Peal out with no regard to traction or a slow engagment of the relation to grip vs motor torq?
 

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