Problems with nitro engines out of the box and after breaking in the engine for the first time and tuning for the first time.

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You haven't even broken in the engine yet . One tank isn't enough. 3-5 tank is normal. When it comes to tuning you you always start with the low. So it doesn't boggy or sound ping. Don't touch the high for several more tanks .Once low is set you can slowly break in the high until max speed is reached. This will depend on the fuel you have. Fuel will greatly affect tuning and break-in.
 
one of the biggest things for breaking in an engine is to find the factory settings in the manual and set the needles to factory settings. it is a good idea to count how many turns it was as it came, but it is not uncommon to find that the actual engine is not at factory settings out of the box.
break in settings are typically very very rich. and depending on other factors, can be too rich for it to get running easily.

Please keep in mind what i am saying below is in my experience, and is for interpretation, i highly advise to get as much input as possible and figure out what you may think is the best approach for what you ultimately do.
i have rarely had issues to start a new engine that has been pre-heated to 220F, but if so i was taught to first start with trying to richen the LSN a few hours up to 1/4 turn, and if that seamed not to help the situation, then lean the LSN a few hours up to 1/8 of a turn from factory settings and see if that helps it start.
as with RC there is always exceptions, and there are some cases where the LSN is a little too lean at factory settings (dynamite .19 mach 2 for example), for some reason the manual says to set the LSN at 2 turns, where it seemed 3 to 4 turns is a better starting point to at least get it to run for most. one of my biggest recommendations is to pre-heat engine for break in. it will let everything expand, wont require the engine to try to push through such a high mechanical pinch, and allow the fuel and air mixture to be warmer allowing it to fire easier, running that rich it on its own wont usually hold its heat up as high, so insulating the head is also important (with tin-foil, a sock, or something), or bringing it back in to heat the head again with either a hair dryer or heat gun to get it back up to temp, also another note is to always return the engine to bottom dead center, where the piston is at its lowest point as soon as you can after the engine turns off and you are going to let the engine cool. (always let the engine cool completely between tanks)
i highly advise the Adam drake break in method (link below)
as far as the engine leaning out slightly causing the engine to run better as the tank gets closer to empty can be caused by a few factors, gravity weight of the fuel and pressure characteristics of fuel versus air when under pressure.

after break in tuning ill start with the HSN, lean it out 1/8 turn or so and slowly work my way in from there. i like to take have it be a pretty rich performance tune setting, and be easier on it for the first few tanks up to a quart to allow the piston to fully seat into the sleeve. when it does you will notice a pretty drastic change for the better in its performance, then finish performance tune.
 
Id be willing to try and answer any questions you have if you post them. I'm not trying to be rude but I aint got 30 minutes to listen to that whole thing. The first 10 minutes of it the only problem I really heard you bring up is not being able to start your kit right out of the box. The only thing I can say about that is what i would do which is to make sure the HSN and the LSN are both set to factory default settings. That should at least get you to the point where its firing even if it wont stay running at that point then Id play around with the LSN until I could get the kit idling. If you can't even get it to fire then check and make sure your glow plug is good. If none of that worked then Id probably ask Associated for a warranty replacement engine.

If you have any other questions post em up and we'll see what we can do. :)
 
This Guy here is where I get my info from ,he is real good friends with the Drake's an other
racers ,Adam Drake has a break-in business as he does an oil bath break-in process for other
people ,,but Nitro Freak shows his process here in the vid ,using a heat gun an monitoring the
heat ,he is actually lapping the piston in with the sleeve because the pinch is very tight an engine
carb settings is very rich ,that is why a heat gun is a must ,it helps heat the sleeve for the piston
to shape the fitting of the sleeve!

 
Id be willing to try and answer any questions you have if you post them. I'm not trying to be rude but I aint got 30 minutes to listen to that whole thing. The first 10 minutes of it the only problem I really heard you bring up is not being able to start your kit right out of the box. The only thing I can say about that is what i would do which is to make sure the HSN and the LSN are both set to factory default settings. That should at least get you to the point where its firing even if it wont stay running at that point then Id play around with the LSN until I could get the kit idling. If you can't even get it to fire then check and make sure your glow plug is good. If none of that worked then Id probably ask Associated for a warranty replacement engine.

If you have any other questions post em up and we'll see what we can do. :)
Well I made the video purposely for someone to help me and if it takes that long to explain myself that maybe may I ask how I could actually ask the same stuff in a way that could be more less time consuming because I don't really know how to explain no more better. I'm mentally disabled and there's some things that I'm bit illiterate about as far as the way I explain stuff. I've had got criticized that I take too long and doing videos so maybe you could help on that.
 
My suggestion is to just start with one thing at a time. Post up a single question you have and see where that leads. Then if the replies to that answer cause you to have additional questions then post those up. Once you think you have a handle on that first major questions and all of the follow up questions then ask the next question. Keep doing that process until you solved your overall issue.

That will help people that are trying to help you.

As for the nitro engine not starting out of the box Id try setting my carb gap, LSN, and HSN back to factory defaults. Check and make sure your igniter is fully charged and your glow plug is working properly also. Also make sure that you are using the correct plug for your engine if you havent already. Before trying to start it up take a heat gun to it and warm the block up to about 180F.

The LSN controls your idle and your low speeds, HSN likewise controls your fuel flow at higher RPMs up to wide open throttle. Once you get the engine where its firing or at least trying to fire then the LSN is the only one you need to mess with until you can achieve a good idle.

Lets tackle that first. Try these things and see if you can get it to start up and idle for a whole tank at somewhere around 180F-220F (or whatever you manual calls for for breakin temps). If you can at least get it to idle then we have soemthing to build on and we can go from there :)
 
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This Guy here is where I get my info from ,he is real good friends with the Drake's an other
racers ,Adam Drake has a break-in business as he does an oil bath break-in process for other
people ,,but Nitro Freak shows his process here in the vid ,using a heat gun an monitoring the
heat ,he is actually lapping the piston in with the sleeve because the pinch is very tight an engine
carb settings is very rich ,that is why a heat gun is a must ,it helps heat the sleeve for the piston
to shape the fitting of the sleeve!

'm sorry to see you go as a subscriber but the YouTube channel I got is not really a channel that I upload content
 
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