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Power washing?

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Elmerfudd

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
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Does anyone have any input on why you should not power wash any vehicle? My friend has been doing it for quite sometime and has had no issues. He covers the intake and sprays degreaser on his vehicle then power washes it and it comes out looking cherry everytime. I know the servos are sealed, but what about getting water in the reciever or wheel bearings? Won't it rust? My other friend is thinking about doing it to his new 8B, but I am very hesitant.

What do you guys think?:shrug:
 
I used to run with a guy who had a Savage Truckzilla, and he really enjoyed getting it in the red clay mud. At the end of the day, it was so caked and heavy that it would hardly move. He'd take it to the local 'do it yourself' carwash, put in his 75 cents and power wash it.
I couldn't believe anyone would do that, but he said he never had a problem once it was dry.
 
I am with Rolex, I wouldn't recommend it. I have hosed some of it off but stayed away from the reciever box, and lubed everything backup after I was finished. I also use a air compressor to clean it off when I am done everytime.
 
I do blow it off all the time after evey day of running and clean the air filter, but there is always that left over mud type stuff that you cannot blow off. Or even wipe off (because you cannot reach in the cracks.

I just wanted some feed back, thanks guys. Anyone have any know issues with doing it?
 
I myself don't see why you could't use a power washer like you would get at Target or something. I would of course remove the electronics,tires/wheels,body, engine and pipe before doing so. I have done it to 1/8th buggy. Mind you, spraying only what is needed not everywhere. I sprayed the chassis and arms. Once done, I took my compressor and blew off all excess. I would spray it down with WD-40 and let it sit for about 30-45mins and then hit it with the compressor.
 
Seems to me you would blow all the oil out of your bearings. Guess it's a trade off. Save time cleaning the truck by using a power washer and spend time re lubing the bearings or take time cleaning the truck and not have to re lube bearings.
 
I power wash mine after every race weekend, all I do is remove the servo tray/rx box and sometimes bag the air filter with a ziploc bag. After blasting it off I blow it all out with an air gun on the compressor and then a dusting with WD40 and blow off any excess. I have 16+ gallons on my 5T and about 8+ on my 5R, never an issue. I also use White Lightning bike chain lube on my CVD joints and such. About every other time I completely remove the fuel tank and engine/pipe too
 
I do it with mine... have been for years. Ruined a few servos, but now I have ones with o-rings built in and haven't had an issue.

Cover the air filter, keep away from the electronics and spray sparingly near the pull start and you should be fine...

I hit mine with canned air after hosing it down. I blow standing water off the engines needles, glow plug area and off the tops and bottoms of the servos.

I have my receiver in a balloon (along with FS) and I have my receiver pack in a balloon too.
 
When mine actually got used at a race I'd tear the entire rig down and nut and bolt it ...after the 3rd time doing it it's like second nature...I can do my buggy in about 4 hours while watching the boob-tube....my maxx takes about 6....I recommend doing this way for many reasons....
1 you will get to know your vehicle inside and out (litterally)...repairs become a joke once you know it like this....
2 ALL of the required lubricants are ALWAYS where they should be..
3 you can visually inspect parts that wear and prevent other parts from breaking (when you run race rigs like a lot of these guys do the money factor becomes an issue)
4 IT'S HALF THE HOBBY TO TINKER WITH THESE THINGS!!!!!

now I don't do the tear down after just bashing in the front yard and what not....but a good bay of bashing is pretty rough on your rigs and you'll save ALOT of money if you really take care of your rigs....but a ggod Blow job with a compressor and WD-40 and denatured alcohol should get most of the crud off pretty safe.....
 
One thing I notcied after I took a good look at my friend's rig, is that it is showing signs of rusting. Especially on the dog bone area's to the diffs and all his steel screw tops. It does not look good to me. Maybe he is not hitting it with WD when he is done. He says he is blowing it off with air though. I think if I were to do it that I would (after blowing it off with air) use some electric cleaner to dry off all the water and clean quickly, then use the WD.

Thanks for all the input guys. I might try it, but I think I would remove my radio tray and engine first.
 
Yeah, I hit the dog bones and cvd cups with wd, but I don't care about the hex heads... they strip out over time and get replaced anyway. Besides, I don't want wd all over the truck. Just makes a mess.
 
That is another good point. Woulnd't the Wd just attract tons of dirt anyway. Seems it would just get dirtier. Maybe I will just try a good spraying of electric cleaner? Would that make the metal rust?
 
on the topic of dogbones, my lhs told me NEVER lube the dogbones. is this the case? i know grease would attract and hold dirt and stuff, but what about graphite or dry lubes? does anybody do anything to their dogbones?
 
I use the wax based stuff. Ends up a dry lube. I use that when the snow is gone.

In the winter though, I do just use WD40. Water/snow means very little dirt/dust, so something sticky isn't such a big deal.
 
jetmechG550 said:
I power wash mine after every race weekend, all I do is remove the servo tray/rx box and sometimes bag the air filter with a ziploc bag. After blasting it off I blow it all out with an air gun on the compressor and then a dusting with WD40 and blow off any excess. I have 16+ gallons on my 5T and about 8+ on my 5R, never an issue. I also use White Lightning bike chain lube on my CVD joints and such. About every other time I completely remove the fuel tank and engine/pipe too
Click to expand...


I use this same method..........shines like a charm and is fast :)
 
I get a little rust on the cvd's/dog bone ears and in the tops of screws... as for bearing failures, since I hit them with WD, they don't seem to wear out or blow apart any earlier than if I do nothing and don't get it wet.
 
Elmerfudd said:
No rust anywhere or bearing failures?
Click to expand...

I blow off the H2O after 30 minutes or so and then hit it with WD40. Soak the Universals and out drive cups.

Remove the engine and radio tray. Much safer.
 

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