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OS VZ B is here!!!!!
- Thread starter wizen2002
- Start date
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Nitro_Freak
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yah don't worry about the engine. just have fun with it 
dgrobe2112
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I think OS has resolved all the fast wear problems with this motor.. not sure on that.. but i think they have..
Nitro_Freak
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whoops, i've been running all my engines on 12% oil fuel. i din't even know that there was a fuel with that much oil in it lol
Nitro the synthetic oils that are in the current nitro fuels are much better at protecting your engine and therefore one can run less than 18%. Or so I have been read. ONe friend of mine has run 12% through his WS7 for nearly a year and engine is still running strong. Shrug! Who knows....
Nitro_Freak
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i wouldn't worry too much about it if i were you
Yeah, like I said... a properly tuned and broken in engine will go for a lot longer than most people think. A lot in motors wearing out early... well actually pretty much all in motors wearing out early is due to the tune.
Hypedonrc
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I'm at about 2 gallons of O'Donnel 20%, and some other fellows I know swiched to 30% after the first gallon, and are on about 3 gallons. Take your time breaking it in. These VZB's spoken of above took 1/2 to3/4 of a gallon to be fully broken in, and are all running strong. Good luck!
You will find that a lot of people out there will tell you that one engine wears fast or another doesn't make good enough power or torque... bla bla bla, in all actuality it comes down to how the engine was broken in, how well it is maintained, and most of all, how it is tuned. Short engine life is about 85% from a poor tune, 5% from not being maintained properly, 5% from not being broken in properly, 3% physical damage from over revving, and probibly about 2% from some sort of flaw. Well... okay, I made those figures up myself 
, but you get the point... it is all in how the person tunes it and maintains it bassicaly... most of the time, short engine life is due to the person that ownes the buggy.
, but you get the point... it is all in how the person tunes it and maintains it bassicaly... most of the time, short engine life is due to the person that ownes the buggy.wizen2002 said:
That's kind of insulting, like we're a bunch of hacks over here or something.
Bah. Whatever. We can only run what the LHS sells.. and if that means my Novarossi based engine will run for a long time, but the OS engine won't, then guess which one I'm choosing.
I'd even give more weight to not breaking in properly then that. Lots of folks are simply too impatient or end up getting so many opinions about what the best way to break in an engine is that they just don't do it right. If an engine isn't broken in right, and the piston and sleeve don't mesh perfectly, it can put a lot of undue stress on other parts in the engine.
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uDi_MP7.5
RCTalk Talkaholic
wizen2002 - I used to be an OS guy, and the cold hard rule is, you look after the engine, it'll look after you.
It's worth sticking to a higher oil content, and keep it rich, and try keep temps in the 220 range. The OS engines DON'T like to run on low oil and/or run hot. Stick to those guidelines and it should last a long time.
Sorry, synthetic oils will NEVER have the protection abilities of castor oil, hence you should always run a moderate amount of castor oil. Synthetic oil burns very efficiently and cleanly i.e it all burns. Castor is not so efficient, and it sticks around in the cylinder, keeping the parts nicely coated, especially at higher temps when synthetic becomes useless. Thus your engine has some form of protection against lean runs and is generally pretty well lubricated.
I hope I explained it well enough, but what you said (or read) is a misconception, synthetic oil will never perform castor oils duties, and therefore you should run a healthy blend of both at all times.
As a side note, if anyone has a novarossi manual, note it actually tells you to run 100% castor and NO synthetic oil.. while that is pushing it, it might help show that castor does play an important role.
As for the WS7 - it's nova based and generally any italian motor will run lower oil contents - say 10-14% total and have great results, in fact run any higher and it won't run how it should. You wouldn't do that on an OS without shaving some time off the lifespan.
If it matters, for oil I run 7% castor and 7% synthetic, for a total of 14% oil, in a JP and an RB and both are going great.
-uDi
It's worth sticking to a higher oil content, and keep it rich, and try keep temps in the 220 range. The OS engines DON'T like to run on low oil and/or run hot. Stick to those guidelines and it should last a long time.
GaInGrEEn said:
Sorry, synthetic oils will NEVER have the protection abilities of castor oil, hence you should always run a moderate amount of castor oil. Synthetic oil burns very efficiently and cleanly i.e it all burns. Castor is not so efficient, and it sticks around in the cylinder, keeping the parts nicely coated, especially at higher temps when synthetic becomes useless. Thus your engine has some form of protection against lean runs and is generally pretty well lubricated.
I hope I explained it well enough, but what you said (or read) is a misconception, synthetic oil will never perform castor oils duties, and therefore you should run a healthy blend of both at all times.
As a side note, if anyone has a novarossi manual, note it actually tells you to run 100% castor and NO synthetic oil.. while that is pushing it, it might help show that castor does play an important role.
As for the WS7 - it's nova based and generally any italian motor will run lower oil contents - say 10-14% total and have great results, in fact run any higher and it won't run how it should. You wouldn't do that on an OS without shaving some time off the lifespan.
If it matters, for oil I run 7% castor and 7% synthetic, for a total of 14% oil, in a JP and an RB and both are going great.
-uDi
Well... from experience, no matter what people say, always follow the manufacturers break in procedure and you will be money. They have a reason for it, and they are the ones to engineer and make the engines, so I will take their word for it... especially since they will be the ones to stand behind it if it fails. I don't know why you get so freaked out about it running below 200 degrees... durring break in, engine temps are way below this, that's just the way it is.
WA2FAST said:
There's a school of thought that you should get your new engine up to temp as quickly as possible during break-in. The theory being that a new cold engine is too tight and the piston/liner will actually start to wear out rather than just bedding in.
Yeah, but leaning it out isn't good for it either... that's the whole point of breaking it in... cool temps and heat cycles... right? That's always how I have understood it. I have always known to leave the settings to run fat hell for a few tanks, leaning it out very slowly and so on.
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