OS.18TM, Pulling Hair Out...

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bryson

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
2,023
Reaction score
3
Location
Anaheim
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Ok I have broke in several mills in the past including a 3.3 and a 2.5, which was a nightmare, and a few more of my buddies mills. But now I have a Os.18tm that makes me want to pull my hair out. I have just about hade enough of this freakin thing. Ok heres how it lays. I have a Os, resignator pipe and a motor savor air filter on a revo. I go to start beak in yesterday and it wont start, no matter what and I blisted up my hands really bad, almost to the point where it hurts to make a fist with my right hand. So I put the easy start on and it takes some effort but fule finally reaches the carb. It starts and it dies almost as quick. I fight to turn up the idle,( why in the hell do they put the idle screw right against the header spring, i almost burt myself trying to adjust it today). I finally get it right, start it up, set it on the ground and start to get it up to temps just goin in small circles starting the heat cycle. Then the idle grows way high, and it starts to drive itself. I'm like WTF!!! So I wait a minute try it again repeat the warm up process, and same S***. I'm BAFFLED. What does it sound like to you guys, I'm thinking a really bad air leak. Everyone raves about the os mills and I'm really disappointed in them. My 2.5 was a brize compared to this F-er! What do you guys think,

Bryson
 
it could ber your lsn , i have an os 18 tm and is handlng very well , make sure you have no leaks anywhere , check at how much our carb is closing at , playing with your lsn will affect your idle also .
 
Start the LSN spitting rich and the same for the HSN, nothing can go wrong if you start off rich, it might die, but at least you won't be over leaning the LSN.
 
Sounds like an over-lean low end needle. Richen it up about 1/8th of a turn. Also, make sure your carb is tightened down 100%, and it's not leaking from the pinch bolt. My TZ.12 was leaking from there, and driving me insane. Tightened the carb down, and now she's ballistic.
 
Well, from past experience, you need to reset your throttle linkage. Going from a Traxxas mill on the Revo to an OS didn't allow proper travel. On mine it neither opened completely nor would it return to idle. Another thing, if you have the stock air filter and pipe, use them for break in, it will make things easier. And just to add, seal you backplate.
 
Ok so ummm this also has me confused the manual has me all messed up the low end on the os is which needle, the big one on the side facing the same way as the idle or the one on the other side facing the body. But I dont get why that would be out of wack beings I have never evne drivein it.

Bryson

Thanks Jet the linkage is set up right, I'm using a associated return spring and ofna linkage, works great. I was thinking the same thing as far as the stock pipe and everything. Guess its worth a shot at this point.

Bryson
 
Well, from past experience, you need to reset your throttle linkage. Going from a Traxxas mill on the Revo to an OS didn't allow proper travel. On mine it neither opened completely nor would it return to idle. Another thing, if you have the stock air filter and pipe, use them for break in, it will make things easier. And just to add, seal you backplate.


Pay careful attention to what Jet is saying here as I have had this very experience.

You NEED to adjust the throttle linkage AND rotate the carb so that you get a smooth pull on the the throttle. Once you do this you will be much better off and IN control of the throttle so you can begin break in. Set the needles back to factory and start from there. These mills LOVE the heat cycle method so you are good there.
 
I'm seriously ready to pull this Mother F***er and get a nother 3.3. I just put all my stock poop on, went out and tried it again with the same crap. It will sit there at idle and just start to creep up higher and higher untill its screeming. The linkage is set properly trust me on this one, its not that! Something is up with this mill. It idles 240. I start it up put the gun to it and bam hot as hell. This hyped up os is turning out to be another 2.5 for me. Just a PITA. The needls are at stock too, I took it out of the box and droped it in, how could it get that far outa wack. I tried leaning and richin the low end to with nothing.

Bryson
 
Have you set the LSN and HSN back to stock settings? I've received brand new in box engines that have the needles screwed up before. My XTM 24.7 had the HSN screwed all the way in and backed out 1/2 turn. Stock is supposed to be around 4 full turns out.

The LSN on the 18TM is the screw thats on the moving part of the throttle barrel. It's not the one on the same side as the HSN.
 
Ok thanks but just to clarify, what are the stock settings. Is it flush and 4 or something else.

I'm taking the back plate off tonigh and rtv-ing it again. Just double checking it. Then after stock settins set, then tomarrow come home from school try it again and hopefully have better luck.

Bryson
 
Ok so I start taking this mill apart and look and rember I never did seal the back plat no big right. So i go to take the 4 little screws out of the back plate and of freakin course, one stripes clean out. HAHA. Why and the hell would you use screw anyway. Now I'm fuming and ready to buy another mill or scratch this whole revo race project. I'm really pissed off at this point and really disapointed in OS. I really dont know what to do at this point either.

Bryson
 
LSN - flush
HSN - 1/2 turn in from flush

Page 22 of the manual:
http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/18tm-tmaxx-revo-manual.pdf

Check your head bolts. If I remember correctly, mine were loose on my 18TM. I didn't realize it until I got half way through break-in and fuel was leaking down the sides of the engine.

Ok so I start taking this mill apart and look and rember I never did seal the back plat no big right. So i go to take the 4 little screws out of the back plate and of freakin course, one stripes clean out. HAHA. Why and the hell would you use screw anyway. Now I'm fuming and ready to buy another mill or scratch this whole revo race project. I'm really pissed off at this point and really disapointed in OS. I really dont know what to do at this point either.

Bryson

You could try to gently drill the head off the bolt and try to get the bolt stub out when you get the backplate off.
 
For some reason I could see that going horibly wrong right now, espically beings this mill is my new bestest friend.

Bryson
 
Anybody else have any clues as to what else I could do or what the stock settings are for the needles.

Bryson
 
I'll trade you my 1 gallon old 3.3 for the tm. And pay the shipping both ways to get the headache away from you.
 
Are you sure the mid speed needle is set right? I have had about the same thing happen to me and it took me FOREVER to remember that mid needle!

EDIT: and wile your at it take of the throttle linkage of at the servo and make sure the carb slides in and out easily and returns to normal then gently push in on the slide to make sure its going back.. Mine was locking up at close to WOT because there was a bind on the linkage because the carb was twisted..
 
Last edited:
I'm going to try what olds told me today and hopefully it will work. I'm also going to try to reset the carb again and then through it in the truck again and give it one more shot, hopefull it will work.

Bryson
 
Are you sure the mid speed needle is set right? I have had about the same thing happen to me and it took me FOREVER to remember that mid needle!

EDIT: and wile your at it take of the throttle linkage of at the servo and make sure the carb slides in and out easily and returns to normal then gently push in on the slide to make sure its going back.. Mine was locking up at close to WOT because there was a bind on the linkage because the carb was twisted..
sorry to hop in on your the thread , but i am getting that binding felling when i push the throttle wot it sticks sabit before and doesn't open all the way , only if i push it abit
 
With the .18TM you need to move the lever that mounts to the block where you're throttle linkage hooks up to and the arm for the slide. I don't believe I'm typing this in German or French or Chinese. That's why they stick and don't operate smoothly nor do they go full open or closed.
 
I get you Jet, I just have a feeling that this thing has a air leak and now with the striped screw I can't get to the backplate to seal it. If I ever get it off ill but some alen heads for it.

Bryson
 

Similar threads

E
Replies
6
Views
467
Lostinthewoods86
Lostinthewoods86
E
Replies
9
Views
3K
EJMOPAR70
EJMOPAR70
E
Replies
16
Views
392
easy rider
E
Back
Top