On-Road Guys, explain something to me

[Panko75]

With on-road RCs, is it normal to "need" a lot of hop-ups right from the get go? Specifically, if I buy a nicer $300 on-roader for casual parking lot use, is it normal to have to spend another $200 in upgrades to make it handle well?

I ask this because whenever I would look at builds for a Tamiya chassis, almost all of them begin with "stick it in a blender with tons of of hop-ups", even the expensive stuff. Is this normal with Kyoshos? 4Tecs? Or other brands?

I'm used to off-road RCs, where either you can build them up from the start, or upgrade them as things wear out or break. I have a hard time imagining that something meant for running on asphalt would need much in upgrades.

 

[Chubaka]

My hpi nitro rs4 3 are all solid. Most of mine is for bling and to be different. Facfory wise its a great car. Even my junk e10 i bought brand new drive great. The plastic bushings were an issue as well as the plastic pinions on metal ring gears. It was fine brushed or on drift wheels. My vxl on 3s with grippy tires did it in.

If it's true then the saying of it ain't made like it used to is also.

The two you mentioned I am interested in purchasing some time.

 

[Dan B.]

Based on general consensus I’d avoid the Tamiya TT02’s. The Rlaarlos are IMO one of the best deals out there. The carbon roller is on sale right now and already comes with most of the aluminum hop ups. If you take the time to properly shim and set up the suspension and steering they’re fantastic little on-road screamers.
https://rlaarlo.com/products/ak-917-1-10-car-frame-set-carbon-fiber
https://rlaarlo.com/products/1-10-carbon-fiber-on-road-cars-ak-787-roller

 

[332_RC]

My Arrma Infraction 3s is three years old. It's completely stock. Never torn it up or upgraded anything. I added a tower to tower brace. And a lot of tires. And a different cover. Other than that, it's a great street basher, tough & fast. I've beat on it pretty hard. I've GNSS it at 60mph. Completely stock drivetrain & fluids.

It started life, like this. I use to do FPV with it.

 

[Panko75]

Based on general consensus I’d avoid the Tamiya TT02’s.

I've been down that rabbit hole, TT02s are great...when left on the shelf. But even the recent XV02 seems to need a bunch of hop ups to be robust.

If it's true then the saying of it ain't made like it used to is also.

I had an Associated TC4 for a time that had the same basic layout as most modern touring cars, but if came with a lot of parts that are often sold as "hop-ups" on the newer models (aluminum driveshaft, motor mount, turnbuckles).

 

[luke66]

I second that ^

My Vendetta is STUPID fast with no upgrades. Only thing I've broken is the servo. Put in the speed pinion and you've got 70+ MPH.

And it drives well, skip the 1/10 cars and go straight to 1/9-1/8-1/7.

 

[Panko75]

And it drives well, skip the 1/10 cars and go straight to 1/9-1/8-1/7.

That's tempting, 1/8 probably tackles bumps a lot better than anything 1/10

 

[luke66]

Def would. And be much faster.

 

[Greywolf74]

With on-road RCs, is it normal to "need" a lot of hop-ups right from the get go? Specifically, if I buy a nicer $300 on-roader for casual parking lot use, is it normal to have to spend another $200 in upgrades to make it handle well?

I ask this because whenever I would look at builds for a Tamiya chassis, almost all of them begin with "stick it in a blender with tons of of hop-ups", even the expensive stuff. Is this normal with Kyoshos? 4Tecs? Or other brands?

I'm used to off-road RCs, where either you can build them up from the start, or upgrade them as things wear out or break. I have a hard time imagining that something meant for running on asphalt would need much in upgrades.

Tamiya's are a bad example. Most on-roads will be fine for general parking lot bashing. Just upgrade as you break things.

 

[Doom!]

My 6S Arrma Typhon is a great street basher with just the swap of the tires.

 

[bill_delong]

short answer, no you generally do not need any hop ups... one of the best budget brands out there is 3Racing which offers a "sport" version without any hop ups and it's very competitive out of the box:
https://3racing.shop/

Main issue with sport versions is that they aren't going to be as durable... if you're a clean driver then this won't be a problem, but if you're hitting curbs and parked cars then you'll likely need some upgrades.

 

[tudordewolf]

With on-road RCs, is it normal to "need" a lot of hop-ups right from the get go? Specifically, if I buy a nicer $300 on-roader for casual parking lot use, is it normal to have to spend another $200 in upgrades to make it handle well?

I ask this because whenever I would look at builds for a Tamiya chassis, almost all of them begin with "stick it in a blender with tons of of hop-ups", even the expensive stuff. Is this normal with Kyoshos? 4Tecs? Or other brands?

I'm used to off-road RCs, where either you can build them up from the start, or upgrade them as things wear out or break. I have a hard time imagining that something meant for running on asphalt would need much in upgrades.

My Kyosho FW-06 is my best handling onroad just in its stock configuration. I built up HSP's that can go faster but the Kyosho is clearly a track racing car.

 

[Lumikko]

It’s a Tamiya thing, not an on-road thing.

And I say this as the owner of an M-07.

 

[Panko75]

It’s a Tamiya thing, not an on-road thing.

And I say this as the owner of an M-07.

What have you had to throw at your M07?

Tamiya's are a bad example. Most on-roads will be fine for general parking lot bashing. Just upgrade as you break things.

Good, I'll look at other brands for now. Anything that just works well enough and I can upgrade as I go.

 

[DavidB1126]

Anyone wanna trade a TT02 for a 4tec?

 

[Panko75]

Anyone wanna trade a TT02 for a 4tec?

If I hadn't sold all of my WPLs, I'd trade one of those for your TT02!

 

[Lumikko]

What have you had to throw at your M07?

I’d rather not open that can of worms in this topic but I’ll say the M-07 is certainly one of the better Tamiyas. A set of metal diff internals gets you a long way.

I figured my opinion on Tamiyas would not be disregarded as brand-hating if I share that I also own one.

 

[Panko75]

I’d rather not open that can of worms in this topic but I’ll say the M-07 is certainly one of the better Tamiyas. A set of metal diff internals gets you a long way.

I figured my opinion on Tamiyas would not be disregarded as brand-hating if I share that I also own one.

No problem, that ones not a bad chassis if a little low to the ground for my use.

I looked into the 4Tec 2.0, it's not a bad looking chassis but the abnomally narrow rear end looks problematic if I ever want to run aftermarket wheels.