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Ofna Narrow Starterbox and Gel Cell Question

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Bill thanks for the heads up. My LHS has only stocks one size of the gel cells, so I had no idea they came in a smaller package.

Thank you for the link Clint, I'll measure the inside of the box tonight and see if it will fit.

I really appreciate all the help and suugestions. Now to figure out what to do about the pink.
 
sweetdiesel said:
Bill thanks for the heads up. My LHS has only stocks one size of the gel cells, so I had no idea they came in a smaller package.

Thank you for the link Clint, I'll measure the inside of the box tonight and see if it will fit.

I really appreciate all the help and suugestions. Now to figure out what to do about the pink.
You're not supposed to repaint it pink to get the new look again. Spray paint it black!!!!
 
The box we chopped up wasn't mine. I don't think my buddy has it anymore (it went to his nephew with his old Ultra MBX he used it on). He got a plastic Hyper starter box with his RTR Hyper that he uses now. The plastic box isn't as strong, but it insults his masculinity less.

The 12 volt heavy duty motor/gell cell setup is what is recommended for starting 1/8th buggy engines. Find a way to make your box work (whichever method you choose), re-paint it, and enjoy.
 
I'm going with the smaller battery. No point in hacking up a purty pink box if the solution will only cost a few dollars. Thanks for the link MW.



Follow up question:

By switching to a smaller battery with a lower amp hour rating, am I losing run time or torque or both? Right now the box and battery have no problems turning over a cold P5. My concern is that the smaller battery will not be able to turn the engine over.
 
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Keep in mind that a smaller battery is going to reduce your runtime with the box. The 5ah vs. 7ah is definitely a noticeable difference, thats roughly 30% capacity difference. So if your box lasted 8 hours, the smaller battery would bring it down to a little over 5 1/2.

If you don't want to cut your starter box up, just go buy some steel plate, and bolt it to the box to make a shelf. That way you still get the longer runtime from the battery you already have.

EDIT: I have also seen some people that build a workstation with a sheet of plastic. They bolt their chargers, power supplies and starter box all to it, and just carry around the one plastic panel with everything attached. Its a bit bulky, but that way, you could mount the battery to the plastic, and just use wires to connect it to the box, instead of physically mounting it to the box.
 
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dougc said:
well it would but then you could swap the negitive with the positive and vola it would spin the way you needed it to.

OK, I thought you meant rotate the wheel 90 degrees so the motor sticks out the side and the wheel is spinning lengthwise to the box, which is a common config. for those boxes but for stadium trucks, etc. But it appears you mean flip it around so the wheel is still crosswise but at the other end. That won't work unless you cut a new slot in the box top, and besides it's still the same length. :D

sweetdiesel said:
....My LHS has only stocks one size of the gel cells, so I had no idea they came in a smaller package ....

ACK! While I try to support hobby shops in every way I can, that's not the place to get a gel cell. :D Try the local full-sized car battery shops or an RV supply house - they will have a greater selection and cheaper, probably will run you under $20. Interstate Batteries is my source here, for gel cells, shrink wrap and other things electrical. F'ing hobby shop doesn't even stock it, says "Go to Interstate Batteries." Doh.

While you're at it, some info on charging these puppies - you want a cell at least 5 amps, 7 is better, and do not charge them any higher than 1700 mah, it will shorten cell life at the very least or just burn it up. A full-sized car charger on slow charge is 2 amps, still too hot. What you want is a float charger. You can connect it and just leave it on charge when not in use without danger of overcharging. As the cell caps off, the charge rate decreases to a trickle.

EDIT:
By switching to a smaller battery with a lower amp hour rating, am I losing run time or torque or both? .... My concern is that the smaller battery will not be able to turn the engine over.

Okay flame time. :D No one agrees with me on this.

I said **HAD** one of those boxes. I sold it. The reason I sold it is I also have a dual-motor box. In spite of what many claim, that larger motor does NOT have more torque than dual motors, if anything, it has LESS. That motor indeed reaches a higher RPM, but it's not RPM you need, it's torque. So using the exact same power source, I got a lot better results using a dualie than the large motor box. So I sold it to someone who needed a box for her 1/8 buggy.

To answer the question though, yes, more than anything the power supply you use will be the biggest factor in starting umph. I don't think you'll have any problems with a 5A if it's well topped-off, but it won't go as many starts. Oddly enough, a full-sized car battery seems to have less punch than these little SLA's. Used to have all kinds of trouble with these boxes using a car battery, as soon as I got an SLA the problem went away.
 
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Great info Bill, I was just about to order the one Clint listed on ebay but will try the local auto supply chains first. I got the box used and it came with a float charger so I'm all set in that dept.

Once again I appreciate the help! :cheers:
 
I use these batteries for everything. But believe it or not, I have never used one in a starter box. Just make sure you follow the charging instructions that come with the battery.
Here is one use. Wireless camera receiver.

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battcolect.webp
 
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