Official RC8B3.2 “UNbuild” thread..

[CertifiedMike]

I shoulda been an ad man! lol!

 

[Littlemotor]

I shoulda been an ad man! lol!

Sounds like it!

I’m gonna blow this thread UP tomorrow… errrrrrr-um, well-later today….

NOW, it’s time for some damned ice cream…

 

[WickedFog]

Sounds like it!

I’m gonna blow this thread UP tomorrow… errrrrrr-um, well-later today….

View attachment 200137

NOW, it’s time for some damned ice cream…

No ice cream for you!

 

[Littlemotor]

No ice cream for you!

Believe me-it’s been well earned…

 

[Finesavageboy2]

Finally got some time to get back on this one, and just about to get into it.. So this is the Grade 12.9, pretty damned comprehensive, 293pc hardware kit from my boy Tony Peczinka @ Tony’s Screws. Never again without one….-and I knew better..

View attachment 199919View attachment 199920View attachment 199921

Literally EVERYTHING you need for your build/kit/vehicle… Just thought I’d shoot a couple pics, as some members I’ve chatted with have expressed interest, or straight up decided to go this route on their next build. His pricing, and sheer convenience, simply cannot be beat.. I’ve been using his on EVERY kit I build for the last two decades (except THIS one…F’n DUMMY..).. Anyhow-this gives ya an idea of what you’re looking at if you grab a kit from Tony..

View attachment 199922

Now I actually have been doing it this way with initial builds like I said-for 20yrs now, just grabbed a TV tray to relocate them so that they’re within reach, but outta my F’n way, and I’ve got some room to work.. It’s MUCH straighter forward when you’re doing a new build by the manual, rather than having to weed through disassembled stuff, swap them out, and move onto the next lol… Like I said, “F’n DUMMY..”..

View attachment 199923View attachment 199924

Just a 60deg swivel of the RC chair away.. and room to work..

View attachment 199925

Alriiiiiiiiiight-let’s get after it!!!

Just seeing how high quality those screws are is amazing. will definitely be buying some for my slash!!!

 

[WickedFog]

Just seeing how high quality those screws are is amazing. will definitely be buying some for my slash!!!

Littlemotor turned me onto them as well. They have better prices than I can get off ebay or Amazon so I'm going to give them a try next time I replenish my screw supplies. I try to keep 60 of each size on hand

 

[Littlemotor]

Alriiiiiiight, kiddo’s… For those bored/interested enough to follow along; It’s that time again..

I do not advise this method lol.. Do it right the FIRST TIME, and ya won’t have to bash your domepiece against the wall rootin’ through a bunch of parts, and individually swapping out every last piece of garbage hardware with stuff that’s NOT “made out of play dough”… You’ll see exactly what I mean by that later in this thread.. What took the most time was that part, itself-digging through everything, and replacing screws… I already take tons of detailed photos to document what I’m doing in a build thread-so no way was I gonna bother with that mundane shiit…

Swapping out the original diff cases/bulkheads for the “HD composite” units. Associated is well known for overly soft plastics in the wrong places, and these are no exception.. Causes very inconsistent gear mesh, diff action, setup woe’s, and accelerated wear. All the Tony’s Screws are being swapped in during these particular build modules, but that will cease pretty quickly as we move forward..

See ya later “Play Dough” screws, and mushy diff case number one…

Annnnnnnnd numba toooooo…. I simply tossed the inferior units into the bags, and they’ll go on the pegboard section of my “LHS” (Lilmotah’s Hobby Shop ) as backup’s…

Onto the steering blocks (or uprights-as us OG’s call ‘em).. I’ve got some “HD” versions of these, as well as the “HD” arms for the front upper, and lower, as well as the rears, but winter is coming here in NC before long-and I’d much rather be running on flimsy stuff when it gets chilly, so as not to snap harder plastics due to hard hits combined with that weather.. I do try to think ahead, even in my old age.. Just swapping out the “kit” aluminum steering plates in favor of the swanky carbon fiber Factory Team option parts. Same geometry/ackerman as well. Associated used to countersink these for flatheads, but likely had issues with delamination, and don’t any longer. I already planned to use a handful of Ultimate Racing countersunk washers, and cone washers throughout this build, and in their specific blue.. The eagle eye’s, and anally retentive among you guys will be quick to point out they aren’t even CLOSE to the AE blue (that almost NOBODY matches anymore aftermarket parts-wise). This was part of the plan. My JConcepts closed wheel nuts are the same way, and same color blue as the Ultimate Racing trinkets, and I was hoping the two blues would play well with the Fluorescent blue, and Blue Pearl I used on my paint scheme a couple months back now..

I grabbed (4) longer Tony’s flathead’s from my compiled surplus from previous kit builds for good measure. These, paired with the countersunk washers also provide more clamping area than a traditional buttonhead fastener, to further combat delamination. I do not bother running a bead of CA around my CF parts, as in 35yrs of this haven’t once seen it be of any benefit. Some folks do it, but not this guy.. I just replace them when they fail. I sleep plenty good at night.

“Those little guys? I would worry about those little guys…”… -Ramathorn (Super Troopers)

Likely a fair amount of eye-rolls from the peanut gallery here.. I know they’re babies, and their job isn’t that hard, but when you access your radio tray goodies as much as us nitro guys do-you don’t want “Play Dough” hardware stripping out constantly because your tools are eleventybillion times harder than your cheesedick fasteners.. ESPECIALLY little 1.5mm head guys.. And I payed for ‘em, so I’m using them. There’s a couple larger m3’s in here holding the CF to the radio tray plastics as well that get changed out.

Yep-these as well..

J&T Titanium m4 droop screws. “Flat”. Works better at not destroying your aluminum chassis as fast as the button head units.. -which will be constantly allowing more droop as they eat holes through your chassis while driving..

Man… I wish the default “auto-merge” post replies timer was shorter… Gonna end up with 4 posts in a single reply lol…

Oh well…

 

[Littlemotor]

Like brand new money…

DEFINITELY these guys… Even AE’s diff cups are hard…. These see lots of action through routine maintenance, but more in terms of setup changes with anything 1/8 scale ending in *uggies-not just nitro stuff.. I want good hardware here especially.

Allllllllll those baby m3x3mm set screws FOR SURE..

DONEZO.

Some more upgrades in the pillow ball area.. (1) pack of two Factory Team aluminum/hard anodized PB’s.. Steel stud, aluminum balls.. I like to run steels in the lower arms, and ally in the uppers. If ya REALLY wanna get jiggy with it-grab the titanium stud from T-Work’s for more weight savings… Keep in mind though-not nearly as strong as the steel stud being the same size.. Just the balls is perfect for my needs.

The fun part is assembling them so they don’t come apart/fail on ya, while also not scarring up your nice new, ultra slick anodizing.. I use standard blue Loctite stick (my go to for EVERYTHING metal to metal in 1/8 off-road, and with no failures in 35+yrs [regular blue liquid before the stick came out over 20yrs ago]), clean the threads with brake kleen, or acetone, then assemble finger tight. After this I insert my 2.5mm driver into the steel stud, and wrap the pillowball in my leather belt. Grab the belt with small Channellock’s, and turn the DRIVER to around 5 ft/lbs.. No-Red is not necessary. I didn’t get pictures of this-as it already takes (3) hands to execute this particular trick lol..

More upgrades, setup changes… Going with universals, and ditching the “kit” offering CVD’s. My track isn’t a blue groove, ultra silly maintained, hard packed, and sugared clay surface.. CVD’s are known for working well on those surfaces, and for causing the car/truck to be more inclined to catch a rut, bump, or steer itself down a rougher track as compared to the much free’r action of the lighter, FAR less maintenance requiring universal joint/axle setup. This is also way more prevalent in buggy, but still notable in truggy as well.. I have a pretty decent CVD building regiment, and have used 100% graphite with mine for years, and it works very well, but still not as optimal as a universal for what I’m doing.. This requires some bearing, and spacer/insert changes too.. Also, you cannot do this if you’re running narrower 15mm out drives in the front with this buggy. Just an FYI-so if that’s you, and you’re doing this-getcha some proper 17mm B4 units. You can also toss a pair into the rear, but it’s not needed. Some do it for piece of mind.

Man… I sure do appreciate my Tekno’s anytime I work on anything else.. a 3mm screw is your shock standoff in 99% of every other 1/8 buggy, and truggy out there… That’s just crazy to me.. regardless-I’m a super happy to ditch the grade 5 m3x25mm SHCS in favor of 12.9 at least.. Also, running the Ultimate Racing m3 “cone washer” on the back side for more clamping force than even a flathead, and countersunk washer. Strictly for bling-a-licious effect; some 1up Racing m3 “dark blue” aluminum Nyloc flange nuts.

I’m about to give myself a bunch more work right here…. IDIOT…

So as I was rinsing off the garbage black “kit” grease to use my tried, and true CMD #3, the Naphtha actually ran down the cup, over the out drive, and into the METAL shield for two of the diff bearings.. I thought they were rubber shielded-both sides… Thanks Associated… My dumbass fault for not LOOKING first..

Robbing Peter to pay Paul.. I’ll order up (4) more 8x16x5’s from either J&T, or Avid..

Not much in the way of hardware here-but a pretty damned major upgrade I’ve been sitting on for a hot minute; VRP 20 hole bypass pistons… I’m stoked!

 

[Littlemotor]

So a brief rundown… These allow you to really dial in on your rebound.. The small black triangular guys are the valves. They cover two holes in each piston. The black, red, gold, and blue “washers” limit how far these bypass valves can open during rebound. Seeing a buggy/truggy in action with this setup dialed in is bonkers. Overkill for what I’m doing? Probably. Gonna be dangerous once I’ve gotten them on point though!

Swapping over to the later model B4 shock plastics.. Not that I’ve ever had more than ONCE single occasion where I lost a shock spring retainer cup, but screw it.. And they’re gray, so they’ll go with the paint scheme, as well as my B4 camber links, and steering rod ends. Annnnnnnd they’re a better plastic than the black B3.2 stuff..

All the ballllllllls…

Some people use Protek blue, white lithium, some Vaseline, others just the silicone shock oil.. I have always used the AE Green Slime since they released it back in the day.. All you’re doing is preventing the threads on your shock shaft from tearing an o-ring.. It’s not brain science, or rocket surgery… Do what makes ya happy lol..

I’m SUPER guilty of using specialty tools for other than what I bought them for lol… These are soft jaw slip joint pliers for my airbrushes.. Thanks Iwata!

Here I’m giving the Loctite on my piston nuts 24hrs to cure fully before dumping silicone shock oil all over them, and the diff parts are cleaned up, and dried off from their Naphtha bath. Ready for assembly, so cutting in line for sure…

More slime for the diff o-rings! I don’t discriminate lol.. Also J&T Tekno bearings to the rescue… Thanks Peter.. Paul very much appreciated it.. Like I said; I’ll order (4) more from J&T, or Avid..

I’m running 7, 7, 5k on this setup.. Ready to button up, and shim these pupparooski’s..

And of course took less shims than the mushy “kit” cases.. Had to load up the ring gear side before. Actually pushed it away from the pinion this go ‘round..

CMD #3. Extreme Pressure Lube. If you know, you KNOW.

Doesn’t take a ton..

Onto the rear..

This is how I prefer to set my pinion depth.. not once let me down..

Tossed a swanky Ultimate m3 blue cone washer in behind the m3x20mm SHCS for the rear chassis brace. I’m diggin’ it.

 

[Littlemotor]

Back to the front..

More of Team Associated’s “Play Dough” hardware, and absolutely crushing it with top tier quality control… Just one bad ball stud. This thing was notchy as a mofo, and is from the servo to the steering arm/servo saver assembly.. Awesome…

I actually found a complete steering link from Liquid RC; the kit breaker on egay for a whopping $1.65. $3.99 shipping to my door. Sold! I used the new ball stud only, and tossed the rest in the spare hardware bag from this whole ordeal..

Absolutely MANGLED from the factory…

Not to mention BENT as well.. killer.

Just HOW….

Annnnnnnnd it’s been 24hrs on that Loctite for the piston nuts.. doing 462.5cst front and rear. I’ve got 425, and 500, so literally 50/50.. My ghetto fabulous “tank sticking” process… if it works, it works!

If you zoom in on this shot-you’ll see what looks like the right hand front shock halfway full of fluid… nope. That’s a siiiiiick scar in the shock body that made it out of the factory… Again, and say it with me now-“Thaaaaaaanks Assssssociated…”…

Now as this kit didn’t come with these retainer cups, there’s no m3x10mm set screws… Buuuuuuuuuut all of my Tekno’s did…. So let’s hit up the surplus hardware stash from using Tony’s Screws on every single one of them…

 

[Littlemotor]

Somehow I skipped these, so I’ll just throw them in right here.. Not a big deal, and this is just some boring fundamentals type shiit anyhow lol.. Not even necessary IMO on a fresh build with brand new parts, as the plastic, AND pillow balls are super smooth, with nearly zero porosity yet… But I DO, do this within my regular maintenance. Just run around the inside of the ball cups, and the inner contact point (cup area) of the steering block with your graphite pencil, until it’s all shiny, and grayish.. Do NOT ever use grease, or oil to lubricate your pillow balls lol.. Teflon, Graphite, or NOTHING. I also cut out small circular decals from old sticker sheets, or the portions that are in between the decals I am using, to cover the holes in the pillowball nuts. I’m well aware that the backside is “exposed” to the elements, but if your preload is what it should be, then that’s not ever an issue. In my experience-the majority of dust, dirt, etc, comes in from the nut opening, and does indeed get past the ball cup. I’ve tested this multiple times with the same result. It’s worth doing. I’ll get some photos of the decal covers too. There are also several pro drivers that have posted videos on YT that I’m aware of as well. I’m almost positive Adam Drake has. And he’s ran Mugen foreverrrrrr.. Which is what this car is.

Finally-big parts… Starting to look like something again…

higher quality pipe hanger from J&T Bearing Co.. The factory ones are almost always trash, and this unit is strong AF, while providing the much needed flex required to keep them from snapping off..

Yasssssssss!!!!! The Carbon Fiber stone guards are from Protek, and are at least slightly higher quality than the Factory Team units… If those are even available anymore..

On to the radio tray. Get her buttoned up, and installed.. NitroPro or nothing!!!

Factory Team quickchange engine mount. I’ll install some Tony’s Screws when the motor goes in after mock-up is done. No sense in giving unnecessary wear with the ball driver.. and the LAST place I want garbage screws is holding my motor in.. Mugen gray fuel line, and the obligatory Littlemotor custom fuel tank pull.. Tossed in a couple more Tony’s flatheads, and Ultimate countersunk washers for the fuel tank isolators/mounts, and chucked the Buttonheads, and cheap washers in the ever growing ziploc of spare/garbage hardware..

I’m SHOCKED at how this thing is looking at this point…

Snapped a pic, and texted it to myself before I toss this in the trash.. Because caveman..

And NOW…..

I’ve been a big time Picco guy for DECADES… This right here has been in the works for a good minute, and is the majority of the reason that I drug my feet on driving this buggy… Plus that Reds motor that was in it, was actually destined for my Tekno buggy that I recently was able to pick up..

This is a step above the engine I had PLANNED to buy for this RC8, but I was able to get a SMOKIN’ deal on it.. It’s a super nasty 5port Picco P3TX. Japanese blue seal front bearing, Swiss Ceramic rear. Diamond Like Coating crankshaft, that’s been drilled, and silicone filled. Also been massaged, lightened, and counterbalanced. The intake timing is killer out of the box on this bad MF’er, and the exhaust timing is flat out nasty as well. Turbo head button, 7, and 7.5mm venturi’s, and a gorgeous lightweight, reduced CG cooling head. Also the latest/greatest Picco 3needle carb, w/short needle. I absolutely LOVE a Picco carb.. I went ahead and grabbed a spare billet rod, some extra exhaust springs, and rod circlips. I did grab a crazy rowdy 2166 pipe, and manifold for it as well, but if I can come up with a medium length hardcoated header-I intended to run this hardcoated Hipex 2135 pipe I grabbed for it a few months back.. The mock up for these photos will be with the Reds 2113 pipe as the body will fit the stinger location. I already am fairly certain that neither my long, nor my conical Hipex manifolds will put it in the correct location..

Looks sooooooo good….

 

[332_RC]

The stickers over the pillow ball nut hex holes, yeah, I'll be doing this! I'm also about to build some shocks with all new fresh parts for a Talion. Great ideas.
Awesome just awesome build content! Level= PRO

 

[Littlemotor]

I DO wish it had a drilled backplate, but I may very well grab one from my boy Arron @ AMR Engines…

Lightened, and reduced CG head..

Turbo head button, with o-ring..

Picco’s ALWAYS have gorgeous machine work..

Ported, but not drilled..

 

[WickedFog]

Damn man. Some nice looking stuff there. I bet I can tell ya what happened with that ball stud. The spot drill in the Swiss machine broke. The drill came in and walked off center, bending the stud, and drilled the hole off to the side. The rotary broach that does the hex likely broke as well. That's my guess.

 

[Littlemotor]

The stickers over the pillow ball nut hex holes, yeah, I'll be doing this! I'm also about to build some shocks with all new fresh parts for a Talion. Great ideas.
Awesome just awesome build content! Level= PRO

That’s awesome brothaman! I know you’re stoked! And thanks for the kind words, I’m just glad to be able to help others with THEIR stuff!

Damn man. Some nice looking stuff there. I bet I can tell ya what happened with that ball stud. The spot drill in the Swiss machine broke. The drill came in and walked off center, bending the stud, and drilled the hole off to the side. The rotary broach that does the hex likely broke as well. That's my guess.

Well thanks ya! It’s been slowly compiling out of view for a minute on this one in particular lol..

And I bet you’re exactly right on going full on Columbo on the production line. I was figuring something along those lines, but couldn’t nail down if they’d have ran the threads down before going to the broach..

Oh yeah @WickedFog -i told ya some damned ice cream has been “well earned”… I’m gonna make ya wanna puke, here in a few more posts with this engine… Just you wait sir..

Intake..

Intake, and boost ports.. (STILL intake)

Boost, exhaust, and Boost..

Boost, and intake..

This is where a lot of guys get screwed up in port timing numbers..

Counter-balanced…

God I love a nasty factory modified nitro engine..

Drilled and filled… and that INTAKE timing…

Just beautiful.. and NASTY…

 

[Doom!]

I'm bringing all my RC's to your house when it's time for a tune up!

 

[WickedFog]

I'm bringing all my RC's to your house when it's time for a tune up!

Get in line. All mine are already in transit

 

[Littlemotor]

Absolutely PHENOMENAL machining throughout the entire crankcase.. As per usual with Picco’s..

SWISS ceramic rear bearing FTMFW.

Just flat out tremendous workmanship..

Tried and true Japanese “blue” rubber sealed front bearing..

I'm bringing all my RC's to your house when it's time for a tune up!

Get in line. All mine are already in transit

You guys are awesome! The more, the merrier!

 

[WickedFog]

Absolutely PHENOMENAL machining throughout the entire crankcase.. As per usual with Picco’s..

View attachment 200312View attachment 200313

SWISS ceramic rear bearing FTMFW.

View attachment 200314View attachment 200315

Just flat out tremendous workmanship..

View attachment 200316View attachment 200317View attachment 200318View attachment 200319View attachment 200320

Tried and true Japanese “blue” rubber sealed front bearing..

View attachment 200321




You guys are awesome! The more, the merrier!

I love that they used a nice facemill to machine those upper surfaces. A lot of lazy bastids would just use an endmill, which would leave a chitty finish there. Nice stuff man. I'm impressed.

 

[Littlemotor]

Digging through my extra head shims to add another .15mm during break-in, and my 30% nitro fuel. I’ll remove .05mm after break-in.

I run P3 ultra hot plugs with my 30% as well. I’ll use up this Protek unit, and switch over to my standard OS P3 Ultra Hot plugs after break-in. No sense wasting ultra high quality plugs..

Scarred up aluminum parts from being a moron with your tools is a pet peave of mine.. Even if ya don’t have the specific tools; All it takes is some sense.. Also, ALWAYS use the collet that comes with your kit. The angles, and overall dimensions DO vary between even high quality, race grade, nitro engine manufacturers. The kit flywheel is machined to match THEIR collet. Keep yours for a spare in your pit box, or toss it in the engine box with your paperwork/records..

Clutch assembly.. Two Aluminum, and two carbon.

Rubber shielded bearings for a nitro clutch bell are a no-no.. C’mon now Associated..

I’ll switch over to my usual J&T “Ultimate” metal shielded units after break-in. Again-no sense wearing on stuff during that period..

Grade 5 Titanium clutch bell “bolt”.. I’m able to use a reasonable 5.5mm nut driver with these..

I DO use Loctite on my clutch bell screw. Not everyone does. I’ve NEVER had a failure, and they’re still serviceable. I do NOT use it on the crank threads for the flywheel but, however. Do whatever works for you.

I love that they used a nice facemill to machine those upper surfaces. A lot of lazy bastids would just use an endmill, which would leave a chitty finish there. Nice stuff man. I'm impressed.

Same here! I’ve actually watched serveral videos of their process. They are absolutely a top level engine manufacturer. Picco has been slept on for a lonnnnng time.. A lot of that is just the nitro engine world.. OS, or you’re an idiot.. As well as the older guys associating them with the RTR grade stuff they did for OFNA back in the day.. TBH-a LOT of those old school RTR OFNA/Picco engines were flat out nasty.. I’ve just always been partial to the Italian engines.. Picco, NovaRossi, GRP, Nonja, Mario Rossi, Reds, Collari, etc.. OS absolutely makes killer engines, and always have. I just prefer these.

COMPLETE!!!!

Hells yeah buddy!!! Time to slide this beautiful biitch in for mock up, and button everything down now! That’s all she wrote!

Yeah…… about that…..

Associated strikes again….

This was AFTER carefully taking a 16” file to my brand new, meticulously machined, and assembled “Top Tier” Italian, nitro .21 off-road engine…. STILL contacting the center driveshaft…

FWIW-and in case there is any doubt amongst those following along; this is NOT Picco… This is eleventybillion% Team Associated.. I’ve also known about this all along.. Even shows it in the manual.. So they knew about this, and said F-it; build ‘em anyway.. We will move the driveshaft on the B4, or B4.1 kits… It’s fine…

So after taking a massive file to it one more round…

Is what it is… Believe me-I’m not ultra happy about it, but there’s literally nothing you can do about it, but buy a different buggy., I’ve long since accepted the fate of whatever crank case ended up in this particular buggy. SEND IT!