Official RC8B3.2 “UNbuild” thread..

[Littlemotor]

Get some damned clothes on that girl!

Realized there wasn’t a single “up skirt” shot in this thread… It’s a nice shot on this particular girl with all that CF hidden up there where nobody ever see’s…

Again-the Reds pipe is for mock-up, and these photos only.. I’ll find a medium hard coated manifold for this brand new hardcoated Hipex 2135 pipe I grabbed for it, and we’ll be good to go.. I’ve got a bit of trimming to take care of on the body, slot the rear hole for chassis flex, etc, but shes about wrapped up, and ready for some abuse!

NOW-it’s time for some freakin’ ICE CREAM.

 

[Doom!]

One heck of a beautiful build!


I have a question for you, how the heck can you wear your gloves that long, my fingertips turn to prunes in about 5 minutes.

 

[Littlemotor]

One heck of a beautiful build!


I have a question for you, how the heck can you wear your gloves that long, my fingertips turn to prunes in about 5 minutes.

That WAS like 5min lol… Only on while handling engine internals, and reassembled. I’m used to em-over 25yrs automotive, and now industrial maintenance lol.. I don’t think ANYBODY doesn’t fill ‘em up like water balloons if they’re on long enough.

I can tear one of these motors apart, and reassemble with my damned eyes closed, so it’s really not long at all. I do try to keep ‘em on while painting though for sure.. Finger oils and all..

Thanks for the props too brothaman!

 

[KnowAir]

Damn you and my freezer full of ice cream!
I'm NEVER gonna get any work done while I'm sitting here eating Death by Chocolate and reading all your build pages!!!

Is that Stewart's by chance? Man, ain't no better ice cream than Stewart's IMO. World's best, period.

I’ve been needing a damned tool caddy for the bench for a MINUTE now.. I’ve just always kept my stuff in the MIP “Trapper Keeper”.. Wanting to clean up this corner of the bench pretty bad, as well as get some kind of wall mounts for my RC chargers, along with some holsters for my Milwaukee drivers on the left side under the bench itself.. My transmitters need a dedicated home/shelf as well.. And find a cubby of some sort for my microfibers.. I can’t STAND having shiit taking up real estate on the bench, aside from the vehicles themselves.. Looking like a 3D printer is on the grocery list now too..

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See you on the other side fella…

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Gonna be a photo for each part removed until finished..

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KIDDING….

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BOOM.

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Time to get organized… Start swapping out every last piece of hardware, then move on to the upgrades, and get this fool back together, and finally in the DIRT.

Feeling like maybe ice cream…..

Dang, that thing is making me want an RC8, make mine a T, preferably electric. I know nitro is ultimately higher performance, but I don't wanna deal with the nitro.. messy, expensive, especially for a home body like me who has no interest in driving all over to find the fuel. Your build threads are beyond me bro. I just throw everything together in as little time as possible, LOL. I think both my Tekno's were built in 1-2 days, a few hours per.
I always want to "savor the flavor" of the build, but the kid inside can't stand the wait!! C'mon, is it done yet!?

 

[Littlemotor]

Is that Stewart's by chance? Man, ain't no better ice cream than Stewart's IMO. World's best, period.


Dang, that thing is making me want an RC8, make mine a T, preferably electric. I know nitro is ultimately higher performance, but I don't wanna deal with the nitro.. messy, expensive, especially for a home body like me who has no interest in driving all over to find the fuel. Your build threads are beyond me bro. I just throw everything together in as little time as possible, LOL. I think both my Tekno's were built in 1-2 days, a few hours per.
I always want to "savor the flavor" of the build, but the kid inside can't stand the wait!! C'mon, is it done yet!?

Just wait… keep reading lol…

 

[KnowAir]

Like brand new money…

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DEFINITELY these guys… Even AE’s diff cups are hard…. These see lots of action through routine maintenance, but more in terms of setup changes with anything 1/8 scale ending in *uggies-not just nitro stuff.. I want good hardware here especially.

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Allllllllll those baby m3x3mm set screws FOR SURE..

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DONEZO.

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Some more upgrades in the pillow ball area.. (1) pack of two Factory Team aluminum/hard anodized PB’s.. Steel stud, aluminum balls.. I like to run steels in the lower arms, and ally in the uppers. If ya REALLY wanna get jiggy with it-grab the titanium stud from T-Work’s for more weight savings… Keep in mind though-not nearly as strong as the steel stud being the same size.. Just the balls is perfect for my needs.

The fun part is assembling them so they don’t come apart/fail on ya, while also not scarring up your nice new, ultra slick anodizing.. I use standard blue Loctite stick (my go to for EVERYTHING metal to metal in 1/8 off-road, and with no failures in 35+yrs [regular blue liquid before the stick came out over 20yrs ago]), clean the threads with brake kleen, or acetone, then assemble finger tight. After this I insert my 2.5mm driver into the steel stud, and wrap the pillowball in my leather belt. Grab the belt with small Channellock’s, and turn the DRIVER to around 5 ft/lbs.. No-Red is not necessary. I didn’t get pictures of this-as it already takes (3) hands to execute this particular trick lol..

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More upgrades, setup changes… Going with universals, and ditching the “kit” offering CVD’s. My track isn’t a blue groove, ultra silly maintained, hard packed, and sugared clay surface.. CVD’s are known for working well on those surfaces, and for causing the car/truck to be more inclined to catch a rut, bump, or steer itself down a rougher track as compared to the much free’r action of the lighter, FAR less maintenance requiring universal joint/axle setup. This is also way more prevalent in buggy, but still notable in truggy as well.. I have a pretty decent CVD building regiment, and have used 100% graphite with mine for years, and it works very well, but still not as optimal as a universal for what I’m doing.. This requires some bearing, and spacer/insert changes too.. Also, you cannot do this if you’re running narrower 15mm out drives in the front with this buggy. Just an FYI-so if that’s you, and you’re doing this-getcha some proper 17mm B4 units. You can also toss a pair into the rear, but it’s not needed. Some do it for piece of mind.

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Man… I sure do appreciate my Tekno’s anytime I work on anything else.. a 3mm screw is your shock standoff in 99% of every other 1/8 buggy, and truggy out there… That’s just crazy to me.. regardless-I’m a super happy to ditch the grade 5 m3x25mm SHCS in favor of 12.9 at least.. Also, running the Ultimate Racing m3 “cone washer” on the back side for more clamping force than even a flathead, and countersunk washer. Strictly for bling-a-licious effect; some 1up Racing m3 “dark blue” aluminum Nyloc flange nuts.

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I’m about to give myself a bunch more work right here…. IDIOT…
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So as I was rinsing off the garbage black “kit” grease to use my tried, and true CMD #3, the Naphtha actually ran down the cup, over the out drive, and into the METAL shield for two of the diff bearings.. I thought they were rubber shielded-both sides… Thanks Associated… My dumbass fault for not LOOKING first..

Robbing Peter to pay Paul.. I’ll order up (4) more 8x16x5’s from either J&T, or Avid..

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Not much in the way of hardware here-but a pretty damned major upgrade I’ve been sitting on for a hot minute; VRP 20 hole bypass pistons… I’m stoked!

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Soo.. this is how it's done? Huh, I always have one big pile of screws, and a bigger pile of parts.. dig till I find the "right" ones, LOL. If it fits, it ships!
What RC8 kit did you start with? I'm trying to understand why it didn't have the "good stuff" from the start? Is this how AE does things nowadays? I mean, given the pricing of an AE 1/8 kit, I would expect the HD or better parts are included? If not, hard pass for me. I haven't owned an AE kit since, well RC10 gold pan, circa 1985.. looong time ago.

I see the factory screws appear to be unlabeled/branded? That's cheesy. The screws from Tony's are the YFS branded? I've always found the YFS to be the best. Arrma was using YFS, as was TRX for a period, I think both have started cheaping out in the last year or so. Shame.
So, I was checking out Tony's screws site, do they offer screws in individual sizes? I didn't see that, nor do they offer any kits for any rigs I own, well a couple they have.
Impressive stuff brutha!!

 

[Littlemotor]

And the E-buggy is on a HUGE discount right now… That likely won’t happen with the truggy though..

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...-offroad-electric-buggy-kit-asc80946/p1402931

 

[KnowAir]

That WAS like 5min lol… Only on while handling engine internals, and reassembled. I’m used to em-over 25yrs automotive, and now industrial maintenance lol.. I don’t think ANYBODY doesn’t fill ‘em up like water balloons if they’re on long enough.

I can tear one of these motors apart, and reassemble with my damned eyes closed, so it’s really not long at all. I do try to keep ‘em on while painting though for sure.. Finger oils and all..

Thanks for the props too brothaman!

Yeah, I saw the nitrile gloves and thought "one of those guys", LOL. But given how clean ur builds are, I forgive you. Gloves to work on rc's.. the world is going soft, LOL.

 

[Littlemotor]

Soo.. this is how it's done? Huh, I always have one big pile of screws, and a bigger pile of parts.. dig till I find the "right" ones, LOL. If it fits, it ships!
What RC8 kit did you start with? I'm trying to understand why it didn't have the "good stuff" from the start? Is this how AE does things nowadays? I mean, given the pricing of an AE 1/8 kit, I would expect the HD or better parts are included? If not, hard pass for me. I haven't owned an AE kit since, well RC10 gold pan, circa 1985.. looong time ago.

I see the factory screws appear to be unlabeled/branded? That's cheesy. The screws from Tony's are the YFS branded? I've always found the YFS to be the best. Arrma was using YFS, as was TRX for a period, I think both have started cheaping out in the last year or so. Shame.
So, I was checking out Tony's screws site, do they offer screws in individual sizes? I didn't see that, nor do they offer any kits for any rigs I own, well a couple they have.
Impressive stuff brutha!!

This went much differently than when I do a fresh build right from the kit box/bags.. Since this one was “fresh” from me saying f-it with the cheesedick associated hardware-as this was gonna be a shelf queen from the start lol..

As I decided it was gonna get abused like everything else, I began to grab parts I knew would need some “attention” to be acceptable, and it’d for sure get Tony’s Screws..

Yeah-Associated has gone down hill since being bought out by Thunder Tiger imho.. I still wanted one regardless.. And i know I could’ve had a Mugen MBX8R instead, and been FAR nicer.. I mean that’s what this is, just ripped off, cheaper materials, and no where NEAR as nice machine work.. like 99% of the parts are a direct swap… Pretty shittyy Associated..

Mine is a B3.2. I got it BNIB for right at $300… And I had always wanted an AE 1:8 nitro buggy, just never made it happen, as I was into other brands at the time.. Losi, Kyosho, Hyper, Mugen, Xray, etc, lol…

As for the “HD stuff”, it’s a tuning option based on track conditions, but also for weather. You don’t wanna run hard stuff in the cold, or mushy shiit in the heat of summer for obvious reasons.. The main issue I had was the bulkheads/diff cases.. those were absolute junk, and caused all the terrible diff setup issues, accelerated wear, much more routine maintenance, etc.. So I tossed in the HD’s, and I have the OG’s for spares if I need them.. So that is actually pretty common with SEVERAL top tier, race grade manufacturers tbh.. What got me was the hardware quality… That’s such a simple fix… and they just don’t give a fack… Yep-Tony has been those branding/grade for over two decades now.. I was pretty impressed that Arrma used them (at least for a minute).. Also yessir-he does indeed have individual sizes, and are listed on the site. They come in packs of (20) unless otherwise noted, and between $1-$3 per pack. Absolutely TREMENDOUS..

I’ve actually gone through used stuff, and pieced a “kit” together, and ordered it that way if I didn’t build it initially, and he didn’t have said kit advertised..

Yeah, I saw the nitrile gloves and thought "one of those guys", LOL. But given how clean ur builds are, I forgive you. Gloves to work on rc's.. the world is going soft, LOL.

Definitely NOT, lol… Only with fancy, schmancy, high dollar, brand new Italian engine internals..

 

[KnowAir]

This went much differently than when I do a fresh build right from the kit box/bags.. Since this one was “fresh” from me saying f-it was it the cheesedick associated hardware-as this was gonna be a shelf queen from the start lol..

As I decided it was gonna get abused like everything else, I began to grab parts I knew would need some “attention” to be acceptable, and it’d for sure get Tony’s Screws..

Yeah-Associated he gone down hill since being bought out by Thunder Tiger imho.. I still wanted one regardless.. And i know I could’ve had a Mugen MBX8R instead, and been FAR nicer.. I mean that’s what this is, just ripped off, cheaper materials, and no where NEAR as nice machine work.. like 99% of the parts are a direct swap… Pretty shittyy Associated..

Mine is a B3.2. I got it BNIB for right at $300… And I had always wanted an AE 1:8 nitro buggy, just never made it happen, as I was into other brands at the time.. Losi, Kyosho, Hyper, Mugen, Xray, etc, lol…

As for the “HD stuff”, it’s a tuning option based on track conditions, but also for weather. You don’t wanna run hard stuff in the cold, or mushy shiit in the heat of summer for obvious reasons.. The main issue I had was the bulkheads/diff cases.. those were absolute junk, and caused all the terrible diff setup issues, accelerated wear, much more routine maintenance, etc.. So I tossed in the HD’s, and I have the OG’s for spares if I need them.. So that is actually pretty common with SEVERAL top tier, race grade manufacturers tbh.. What got me was the hardware quality… That’s such a simple fix… and they just don’t give a fack… Yep-Tony has been those branding/grade for over two decades now.. I was pretty impressed that Arrma used them (at least for a minute).. Also yessir-he does indeed have individual sizes, and are listed on the site. They come in packs of (20) unless otherwise noted, and between $1-$3 per pack. Absolutely TREMENDOUS..

I’ve actually gone through used stuff, and pieced a “kit” together, and ordered it that way if I didn’t build it initially, and he didn’t have said kit advertised..


Definitely NOT, lol… Only with fancy, schmancy, high dollar, brand new Italian engine internals..

Thanks bro. I'll circle back to Tony's for another look see. I been buying hardware from Graingers, of all places, LOL. What a racket they are.. "for the one's who get it done".. yeah, with inferior quality for triple the cost, LOL. But, I get a company discount and free shipping on all items, so a couple bucks for a hundred m3x20mm screws pulled me in, too bad they're unbranded crap screws. Nothing worses than stripped screws when you're trying to make a quick repair trackside.

 

[Littlemotor]

Thanks bro. I'll circle back to Tony's for another look see. I been buying hardware from Graingers, of all places, LOL. What a racket they are.. "for the one's who get it done".. yeah, with inferior quality for triple the cost, LOL. But, I get a company discount and free shipping on all items, so a couple bucks for a hundred m3x20mm screws pulled me in, too bad they're unbranded crap screws. Nothing worses than stripped screws when you're trying to make a quick repair trackside.

Yeah-I always used www.McMasterCarr.com for work discount stuff, but still couldn’t compete with Tony for my RC stuff as far as price+quality+convenience..

Here ya go @KnowAir and @everyonethatwantssomeLOL

https://tonysscrews.com/product-category/hardware/

 

[KnowAir]

Yeah-I always used www.McMasterCarr.com for work discount stuff, but still couldn’t compete with Tony for my RC stuff as far as price+quality+convenience..

Here ya go @KnowAir and @everyonethatwantsaomeLOL

https://tonysscrews.com/product-category/hardware/

Thanks again! I'm stuck with approved vendors through my work, which really makes things difficult when I can get what we need for cheaper elsewhere but forced to use specific channels.. Yeah, McMaster Carr has superior offerings in most instances than Grainger, sometimes for less also. What kills it though is shipping charges. My boss is tighter than two coats of paint, so even though McMaster has it either better quality or even cheaper, boss grumbles about shipping costs.. ridiculous. I mean, McMaster gives overnight shipping for $10-$20 on most orders.. anyway, rant over, I'll be ordering up from Tony's! Thanks brutha!!

 

[Littlemotor]

Thanks again! I'm stuck with approved vendors through my work, which really makes things difficult when I can get what we need for cheaper elsewhere but forced to use specific channels.. Yeah, McMaster Carr has superior offerings in most instances than Grainger, sometimes for less also. What kills it though is shipping charges. My boss is tighter than two coats of paint, so even though McMaster has it either better quality or even cheaper, boss grumbles about shipping costs.. ridiculous. I mean, McMaster gives overnight shipping for $10-$20 on most orders.. anyway, rant over, I'll be ordering up from Tony's! Thanks brutha!!

You’re good man, and no problem-I completely understand! “Two coats of paint”…

Mine as well, but in production-time is money for sure, so he’s on board with McMasterCarr.. Still loves to take it in the asss from Grainger whenever possible too though.. And glad to help on the hardware! Thanks for following along on this one too brothaman! I may very well be posting ANOTHER “build thread” in the next day or three…

 

[KnowAir]

You’re good man, and no problem-I completely understand! “Two coats of paint”…

Mine as well, but in production-time is money for sure, so he’s on board with McMasterCarr.. Still loves to take it in the asss from Grainger whenever possible too though.. And glad to help on the hardware! Thanks for following along on this one too brothaman! I may very well be posting ANOTHER “build thread” in the next day or three…

Another build?! Bruh! I'm lucky if I can buy oil/springs to try and tune my recently gifted E Revo! LOL.

 

[Littlemotor]

Another build?! Bruh! I'm lucky if I can buy oil/springs to try and tune my recently gifted E Revo! LOL.

Everything is not always as it seems grasshoppah…

I compile stuff slowly over time, and keep it under the radar, shoved back in a dark corner until it’s time to get suuuurious lol..

 

[CertifiedMike]

Jack is the MAN! I can see your builds in that cool Nicholson light.

 

[Littlemotor]

Jack is the MAN! I can see your builds in that cool Nicholson light.

Thanks bro lol

 

[Tstarkey2489]

Hi I’m new around here but just wanted to say this was an awesome build.

 

[Littlemotor]

Hi I’m new around here but just wanted to say this was an awesome build.

Thanks brothaman!!! I appreciate it! If ya click on my SN, and look at my thread content-I’ve got a few build threads going right now! Actually as luck would have it-I’m about to begin another here over the next few days more than likely lol..

Welcome to RCTalk man! Hope ya stick around, and get into some trouble with us maniacs!!!

 

[Tstarkey2489]

Thanks brothaman!!! I appreciate it! If ya click on my SN, and look at my thread content-I’ve got a few build threads going right now! Actually as luck would have it-I’m about to begin another here over the next few days more than likely lol..

Welcome to RCTalk man! Hope ya stick around, and get into some trouble with us maniacs!!!

Don’t worry I’m an anti Facebook person and this is how I keep my self sane from my own real life shop so I plan on sticking around for as long as yall will have me.