Nitro engine saftey shut off

[trucked]

Hey. I'm wondering if such thing exists. Basically I'm wondering if there is a saftey shut off for if the machine runs out of fuel. Been scared of it happening and it happened to me once and the one time it happened the car went full speed into a curb and messed up the front end. A saftey shut off if one exists pleas let me know cus I need it lol

 

[Chubaka]

If it runs out of fuel it stops running. To stop the motor, plug the exhaust or take off tge filter un a dust free area and plug tge carb.

If it's a runaway a spring will help if it loses power battery wise. If installed correctly it will pull the servo closed. Most moder radios now have a built in fail safe. If it loses power it will go nuetral.

 

[Rowdyray]

When a nitro RC runs out of fuel it will lean out. Causing it to rev up, but only for a few seconds. Shouldn't send you into a curb. That's usually caused by loss of radio contact. Not sure what RC you have or radio being used. The early AM radios and even some early FM radios were prone to "runaways". A total loss of signal. Wide open throttle until it ran out of fuel or a solid object stopped it. Had it happen years ago. The damage was catastrophic.

Google nitro fail safe. Read the reviews. It's been a long time since I've messed with nitro and have no idea what's good. Youtube will have videos of proper intallation. Installed correctly, it will return the throttle to idle and apply the brake if signal is lost. Not totally foolproof but, cheaper than buying a new radio and TX.

 

[NitroR/C]

I did an internet search and found this:

The combustion of a micromotor occurs in five sequences:
1. Rotation of the crankshaft
2. Venturi effect with air intake from outside
3. Mixing air with fuel in the carburetor
4. Blast the mixture using the spark plug
5. Exhaust gas outlet

In theory we therefore have five methods to turn it off, although in reality some of these are either impractical or even harmful. However, let's analyze the pros and cons of each method:


Crankshaft rotation
Any engine needs the crankshaft to continue rotating to function. Anything else can continue to work but by blocking the crankshaft, it stops immediately. To stop the rotation, simply block the flywheel, perhaps using the screwdriver handle that we always have available for carburetion.
Pros: It is one of the most used and reliable systems.
Cons: Not usable in case of off-radio with open throttle, given that the rotation is too high and therefore it is not possible to block the flywheel.


Venturi effect with air intake from outside
Since an engine needs air to function, blocking the air from the filter is another method used to stop the engine. This operation may not be very practical with bodies that cover the filter entirely without leaving convenient and quick access.
Pro: It is useful when (for example for an off-radio) you have to turn off the model with the engine running at open throttle, in this way the engine turns off due to flooding which is certainly good for it if it is running hard (it lubricates itself) while throttling it the tube would mean sacrificing it to the god of spare parts dealers (you lose weight).
Cons: You could flood the engine especially if you run fat. Impurities can pass due to the pressure created, which could slip into the much-loved crankshaft with consequent scoring


Mixing air with fuel in the carburetor
To obtain the mixture of air and fuel, the latter is clearly also needed and therefore detaching the fuel hose from the carburettor or pinching it to stop the flow of petrol will certainly cause a shutdown even if not immediate as we will always have a certain quantity residual fuel to burn.
Pro: An intervention of this type may be useful more than anything else to clear the air from a rather fat engine which, once lean, needs to burn the excess mixture left in the crankcase. Intervention to be done for a few seconds. Done at the end of the day, as the last switch off, it guarantees against fuel stagnation inside the engine.
Cons: The amount of fuel in the mixture tends to decrease rapidly, making it increasingly leaner with a consequent sudden increase in engine speed and small signs of seizure may occur on the piston.


Burst of the mixture using the candle
All engines need a spark plug that causes the mixture to explode in the cylinder with each cycle. It is therefore clear that by unscrewing the latter, the engine stops immediately.
Pro: If you are not in a particular hurry, one or two turns are enough and the engine stops. The spark plugs and Turbo underheads are most affected by this effect, and half a turn is enough to turn off the engine. This method is also useful in case of out of radio.
Cons: There is a sudden decompression and a leakage of gas and benza from the creams of the head. The spark plug gets dirty and dirty with oil and compromises its proper functioning.


Exhaust gas outlet
After burning the mixture, the combustion gases quickly exit the exhaust manifold and into the muffler. A well-tuned muffler, in eliminating the gases, creates the right depression inside the engine which helps the gases of the following cycle to escape, sucking in the fresh mixture ready to be burned. So if we block the final opening of the muffler we will create a pressure inside the entire exhaust system and in the engine cylinder which will block the intake of fresh mixture and its combustion, stopping the engine. In less than a second we will have stopped the engine.
Pro: Since the muffler terminal is always very accessible, it is possible to turn off the engine quickly and easily.
Cons: Due to the high pressure that is created inside the engine, it is possible to crush the spark plug filament and burn it. Furthermore, the overpressure could send dirt from the muffler to the tank via the pressure port.

 

[Greywolf74]

If you google "super bee nitro failsafe" you can still find a couple websites that seem to have them in stock. I believe killerRC made them but their website is gone now but I saw a couple places that had them and some of the optional add ones too.

You could also try just making sure the failsafe on your reciever is set (or add an external one). It's not quite as fool proof as the super bee which will cut the fuel off as opposed to just trying to stop it using the rigs throttle servo but its a lot better than nothing.

 

[monstertruckfan]

I have had two nitros and both with stock electronics would run away when battery died in either truck or controller. I put in fail safe to put throttle back to idle and never had issues again. They can be bought to this day. One thing i would req'd anyone driving nitro. As far as running out of fuel they die pretty fast when that happens so no real problems with them running off and smashing into something. Only when the batteries go dead or run out of frequency range do they go crazy.

 

[trucked]

If it runs out of fuel it stops running. To stop the motor, plug the exhaust or take off tge filter un a dust free area and plug tge carb.

If it's a runaway a spring will help if it loses power battery wise. If installed correctly it will pull the servo closed. Most moder radios now have a built in fail safe. If it loses power it will go nuetral.

Yeah mine has one for if it goes pit of range/battery. But what I mean is that if it's running out of fuel it starts yo rev really high and run really lean and there isn't much I can do but just let it red line until it hits something or shut off. That's why I want to see if there is a fail safe so that if it happens it does go full speed into something and wreck the car

 

[Chubaka]

Yeah mine has one for if it goes pit of range/battery. But what I mean is that if it's running out of fuel it starts yo rev really high and run really lean and there isn't much I can do but just let it red line until it hits something or shut off. That's why I want to see if there is a fail safe so that if it happens it does go full speed into something and wreck the car

I never had one Rev to headline. If yourvwearing old shoes and could care less, hold the brake and put your shoe against the exhaust stinger. After that pull the rope gently to get the exhaust fumes out.

 

[trucked]

I never had one Rev to headline. If yourvwearing old shoes and could care less, hold the brake and put your shoe against the exhaust stinger. After that pull the rope gently to get the exhaust fumes out.

Can't really fo that if it's away from me. I tried putting on the brakes bur nothing really happened and then it redlined right into the curb and wrecked the whole thing

 

[tudordewolf]

There's fuel-flow interrupters that you can attach to the fuel line, like the Killer Bee, that you hook up to an aux channel on your receiver.

Nitro planes don't have a physical idle-stop screw, rather the transmitter/receiver will handle the idle point, allowing you to adjust it or set hi/low idle on a switch, and even implement a "throttle cut" switch that closes the throttle.

 

[NitroR/C]

There's fuel-flow interrupters that you can attach to the fuel line, like the Killer Bee, that you hook up to an aux channel on your receiver.

Nitro planes don't have a physical idle-stop screw, rather the transmitter/receiver will handle the idle point, allowing you to adjust it or set hi/low idle on a switch, and even implement a "throttle cut" switch that closes the throttle.

 

[Zerksies]

If you lose radio contact they have things called failsafes. They go in line of the throttle servo. You just need to calibrate the neutral point. I'm not sure if this is with all receivers, but the Spectrum SR series I am usings seems to have a failsafe built into it.

 

[easy rider]

Hey. I'm wondering if such thing exists. Basically I'm wondering if there is a saftey shut off for if the machine runs out of fuel. Been scared of it happening and it happened to me once and the one time it happened the car went full speed into a curb and messed up the front end. A saftey shut off if one exists pleas let me know cus I need it lol

If the machine is outta fuel, that didn’t cause a run off.

Your electronics control that. You can buy one of many fail safes designed to not operate when your batteries get too low, the car gets too far, basically any frequency interruption causes the car to return to neutral throttle position. Some failsafes apply the brake. But, none are related to fuel amounts.

 

[D3MON]

Yeah mine has one for if it goes pit of range/battery. But what I mean is that if it's running out of fuel it starts yo rev really high and run really lean and there isn't much I can do but just let it red line until it hits something or shut off. That's why I want to see if there is a fail safe so that if it happens it does go full speed into something and wreck the car

if it is revving that high for that long because its running out of fuel, the engine is not tuned correct, i would hazard a guess that it is super rich on the HSN, and lean on the LSN, or rich on the LSN and idle gap is really wide. or there is a mechanical issue like an air leak.
if it is tuned correctly it will rev up slightly then within a 1/4-1/2 a second die.
kill switches and safety shut off switches turn the fuel off, this is the same exact thing that happens when it runs out of fuel.

 

[TMAXX]

I use a throttle return spring on everything. Almost any small spring will do. Just attach it in the open hole on the throttle arm then run the other end anywhere close. To test it hold the throttle wide open (not running) and turn of the transmitter. It will close it automatically and save you from a crash. The trick is finding the right spring the servo can overcome but strong enough to close when off.

 

[Littlemotor]

Yeah mine has one for if it goes pit of range/battery. But what I mean is that if it's running out of fuel it starts yo rev really high and run really lean and there isn't much I can do but just let it red line until it hits something or shut off. That's why I want to see if there is a fail safe so that if it happens it does go full speed into something and wreck the car

Then you seriously need to adjust your brakes. It takes VERY low force to shut off a .21-.28 nitro engine. My high end race .21 engines can be shut down at idle with my FINGER against the flywheel. If you experience a REAL “runaway”, good luck lol… You’d better have your shoe, the rubber stop end of your tuning driver against that flywheel, or a leather thumb, and just plug the exhaust. If you do plug the exhaust, be prepared to replace that glow plug, because you likely just ruined it. Personally I’d rather have a burned thumb, than sling a rod at 60,000rpm, and have a $550 paperweight.. Even my old modified race .28’s (yes, they used to race .28’s in truggy, I’m OLD.) were able to be shut off the same way. Dragging the flywheel is, and always has been the smartest method to shutting off a .12-.30 glow nitro engine. Pinching the fuel line is for newbs, as this runs it lean, and plugging the exhaust can kill your plug as I said above.. I always dial in my failsafe correctly between my Transmitter, and Rx as you’d be a fool not to utilize it, but it’s not the be all, end all that it’s made out to be, and things happen. I’ve never run an external “fail safe” aside from a few small rubber bands to pull the carb closed mechanically. The issue with this, is that your bands need to be strong enough to overpower the servo if you lose electronics power, or communication, and many of todays servos require quite a bit to overpower manually., but it’s not impossible, and I run good servos so it’s not a problem for me. For the few seconds your engine goes lean when you run out of fuel, you should ABSOLUTELY be able to apply the brake with your radio, and have no issues what so ever as it leans out, and dies. If you DO have problems, then your brakes are definitely not properly adjusted. Also, as stated a couple posts back-if you’re motor is revving to the moon when it goes lean-it’s lean already, and you need to do some work on tuning your engine. First BRAKES. You need to be able to control your vehicle. Then learn to tune it properly. If it’s not right, keep tuning until it IS. Don’t drive it lean as a mofo-you’ll sling the rod right out of it, and then start hating on nitro RC’s because you had a bad experience that you were literally responsible for lol.. In all honesty, what you SHOULD be doing, is as simple as being responsible with your fuel level. This is hobby grade stuff at the level of having a nitro engine, and this is a real simple lesson to learn. I’ve been into this since the mid ‘80’s, and have yet to have my brakes not hold my vehicle if I didn’t stay on top of my fuel level. Good luck.