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nameuser

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Hello all I'm pretty new to the rc world and I bought the budget danchee ridgerock which is pretty cool for the price. But doing upgrades such as 35kg servos and bigger tires have links and axles coming but at the moment after I installed the servos and tires I went to plug in my new 5200mah 50c batt. with the deans to T style conversion connector my lines to the esc jumped and my connector smoked and fried. What am I doing wrong? Is the gauge of the wire too small going to the esc? I have proper voltage 7.4 and with the 1500mah bat I can power it up but for whatever reason it doesn’t like the larger output battery. I’ve read all kinds of things on line but feel there’s a simpler solution and I’m just doing something wrong? Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you!
 
Welcome to RCTALK.COM! 😎👍😁

Have you tested the batteries with a multi meter?
The voltage should be the same on both packs. If so, raising the mah should not be a problem.
The connector or adapter you mentioned would be my next thing to check out. Test it with a meter as well. Verify its wired correctly and is not shorted inside.
 
Welcome to RCTALK.COM! 😎👍😁

Have you tested the batteries with a multi meter?
The voltage should be the same on both packs. If so, raising the mah should not be a problem.
The connector or adapter you mentioned would be my next thing to check out. Test it with a meter as well. Verify its wired correctly and is not shorted inside.
Yea I verified voltage on all batteries and they checked out. My mini Tamiya connector on my esc is burnt up but when I just tap the connectors via battery which has a deans (t style) it arcs and burnt up my mini connector. So would it just be a connector issue? Because the adapter I got was considerably larger than the one going to my esc. Also the wires coming from my batt. are 12awg and the ones going to my esc are looks like 14awg I don’t see why but would that cause any issues?
 
Yea I verified voltage on all batteries and they checked out. My mini Tamiya connector on my esc is burnt up but when I just tap the connectors via battery which has a deans (t style) it arcs and burnt up my mini connector. So would it just be a connector issue? Because the adapter I got was considerably larger than the one going to my esc. Also the wires coming from my batt. are 12awg and the ones going to my esc are looks like 14awg I don’t see why but would that cause any issues?
Please are attached

IMG_4536.webp


IMG_4537.webp


IMG_4538.webp
 
my lines to the esc jumped and my connector smoked and fried.
what voltage is the pack?
Is the esc still working?
Most likely because of the old Tamiya style plugs. In your picture which is the ones on the left and right. They only like to handle low power NiMH and NiCAD packs due to how old they are and the amp/current rating on them

Highly suggest putting on a deans plug (that means soldering) on the esc for it being more direct connection and so it can handle the appropriate load. If you don't want to solder, and local Hobby shop or even track that has helpful racers should be able to solder a deans on the ESC for you for low charge or even free, but getting to know how to solder is one of the better things that you can do. Pretty easy if you have the right equipment and patience.
Yea I verified voltage on all batteries and they checked out. My mini Tamiya connector on my esc is burnt up but when I just tap the connectors via battery which has a deans (t style) it arcs and burnt up my mini connector. So would it just be a connector issue? Because the adapter I got was considerably larger than the one going to my esc. Also the wires coming from my batt. are 12awg and the ones going to my esc are looks like 14awg I don’t see why but would that cause any issues?
Yep if your esc is still working, connectors are the issue for certain like I quoted above. ;)

The gauge wire shouldn't really be an issue, true 12awg is standard (atleast for most 1/10 and 1/8 power systems) but I ran 14awg before on 2s on a semi high powered/current setup in my 2wd rustler and it did just fine.

For notes:
Deans/T plugs: 60A continuous, 75A burst.
Tamiya: Generally 15A max/burst, 10A or lower continuous (THIS!!!!)


For switching plugs, deans can be used just fine in this case but if I were me I would use XT60s. Can handle the same loads but they're better in terms of quality/connecting and resistance/energy transfer if you want to put it at that.
 
Last edited:
what voltage is the pack?
Is the esc still working?
Most likely because of the old Tamiya style plugs. In your picture which is the ones on the left and right. They only like to handle low power NiMH and NiCAD packs due to how old they are and the amp/current rating on them

Highly suggest putting on a deans plug (that means soldering) on the esc for it being more direct connection and so it can handle the appropriate load. If you don't want to solder, and local Hobby shop or even track that has helpful racers should be able to solder a deans on the ESC for you for low charge or even free, but getting to know how to solder is one of the better things that you can do. Pretty easy if you have the right equipment and patience.

Yep if your esc is still working, connectors are the issue for certain like I quoted above. ;)

The gauge wire shouldn't really be an issue, true 12awg is standard (atleast for most 1/10 and 1/8 power systems) but I ran 14awg before on 2s on a semi high powered/current setup in my 2wd rustler and it did just fine.

For notes:
Deans/T plugs: 60A continuous, 75A burst.
Tamiya: Generally 15A max/burst, 10A or lower continuous (THIS!!!!)
Yea I run 12awg off 14awg and vice versa at work all the time no issue not by choice though haha so do you think if I just put a new deans connector coming off my esc on the 14awg and then connect it to my 5200mah battery with 12awg I’ll be ok?
 
Yea I run 12awg off 14awg and vice versa at work all the time no issue not by choice though haha so do you think if I just put a new deans connector coming off my esc on the 14awg and then connect it to my 5200mah battery with 12awg I’ll be ok?
The voltage is 7.4v and yes the esc still works but only when I hook the 1500mah up to it but the connector is fried so I have to move it around a little to get a decent connection. So do I have to fully remove the 14awg wire coming off the esc and solder from their or would it be ok just changing the plug/ connector coming off my esc with the 14awg from the mini tamiya to the deans?
 
The voltage is 7.4v and yes the esc still works but only when I hook the 1500mah up to it but the connector is fried so I have to move it around a little to get a decent connection. So do I have to fully remove the 14awg wire coming off the esc and solder from their or would it be ok just changing the plug/ connector coming off my esc with the 14awg from the mini tamiya to the deans?
I have no problems with soldering btw
 
The voltage is 7.4v and yes the esc still works but only when I hook the 1500mah up to it but the connector is fried so I have to move it around a little to get a decent connection. So do I have to fully remove the 14awg wire coming off the esc and solder from their or would it be ok just changing the plug/ connector coming off my esc with the 14awg from the mini tamiya to the deans?
Just changing the plug ;)

the difference in the gauge wire in this aspect shouldn't be any issue or noticeable issue with resistance.
If I were myself I would prefer for it to be all one wire gauge since I like my stuff looking clean and fresh and I'm just a offroad club racer but for this car and just running around shouldn't be an issue at all.
 
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