Newbie needs restoration help !!!

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Yea sounds like a plan. Never wrenched on anything less than my Pontiac aha. Forgot to ask, what kind of lube/grease for everything? Do I need to go grab some special purpose stuff at a hobby shop or ?
 
if its a 2.5 i would put a lc3 glow plug in unless you are running higher nitro content >25%
and for an extra couple of bucks i would put in a 2070/2075 servo for steering for around $23 it is a marked improvement over the 2055
 
if its a 2.5 i would put a lc3 glow plug in unless you are running higher nitro content >25%
and for an extra couple of bucks i would put in a 2070/2075 servo for steering for around $23 it is a marked improvement over the 2055

Too late already paid for everything.
The LC4 will work tho correct? I was planning on grabbing 20% fuel to test the truck. Do I HAVE to get 30% now ?
 
Cool!
Do I need this dif oil or is it a good idea?

If your truck has the older model diffs (2 screws holding the diff cases together), use the diff grease, not the diff oil.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-271...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e88da10d3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Traxxas...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb6e55c9

You can use the diff oil but its going to leak out gradually as the old 2.5 diffs are not sealed like the 3.3 diffs.

I don't know if this has been mentioned but you should buy some shock oil, like a 50wt for example. Every used truck I've bought has had low shock oil levels, and or dirty oil.
 
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Nitro, yea looks like I got the older ones. Thanks. Hopefully a hobby store around here will have that grease. Do you think its any different from floating caliper-bolt silicon paste for car brakes? Got plenty of that aha. I have a feeling its similar.

Yea I'll worry about the shocks after I make sure this thing fires up and doesn't go boom after the first run. Probably just get a new set and refill these for spares. Some of them have rust on the shafts, those are prolly trash.
Gonna start working on it in the next couple days or this weekend hopefully. As long as my other projects let me... like my stupid car exhaust that desperately needs work.
 
I used wheel bearing grease without any ill effects still do on the older style diffs.
Stick to 20% nitro with a 2.5 , the lc4 will work it will just give you a bit smaller tuning window vs the lc3 which is a hot plug.
 
Well I started the tear down and cleanup. Cleaned up the steering arms, re-greased the joints, removed the broken servo. The diff doesn't seem too stiff, much smoother than the rear; so I am gonna put off the tear down of the front diff till I make sure the engine works. Don't wanna waste time!

Got the engine out of the truck. The fly wheel won't budge at all. Going to go get some fuel tmrw and pour some in and let it sit like you said Rolex. Hopefully it frees up ?? I'm sure it has never seen a drop of after run oil from previous owner. Any insight on the engine?

And I bought a glow igniter kit for $20, do I need it? This truck has the electric start. Not sure if i do...
 
The ignitor works better than the traxxas system which is highly prone to failure!
 
Well I started the tear down and cleanup. Cleaned up the steering arms, re-greased the joints, removed the broken servo. The diff doesn't seem too stiff, much smoother than the rear; so I am gonna put off the tear down of the front diff till I make sure the engine works. Don't wanna waste time!

Got the engine out of the truck. The fly wheel won't budge at all. Going to go get some fuel tmrw and pour some in and let it sit like you said Rolex. Hopefully it frees up ?? I'm sure it has never seen a drop of after run oil from previous owner. Any insight on the engine?

And I bought a glow igniter kit for $20, do I need it? This truck has the electric start. Not sure if i do...


It should free up. Put a couple drops through the glow plug hole as well as the air hole for the carb. Open up the slide to get it in the engine.
 
use the igniter with the ez start wand when starting it will make for easier starting as the battery in the starter only has to power the starter not ignite as well
 
Ok cool I'll keep the kit then, the T wrench has proven useful anyways.

Well I got flywheel/piston to move, only after letting it sit infront of a space heater and get to ~110ºF. Couldn't get the head bolts on top to budge without heat and penetrating oil. But I'm guessing this engine is full of the same gelatinous fuel as the fuel tank is cause it doesn't budge without the heat applied, and even with that its an considerable effort to move it.

Full tear down needed huh?
 
Full tear down and lacquer thinner bath!
 
Really tempted to get lazy and just buy this new lower unit lol. Prolly have to get a new piston too huh? Then I could clean up my current one for a spare... if its even good at all.
 
At that point, its cheaper to just buy the motor complete or just get a 3.3 for not much more and put your carb on it!
 
At that point, its cheaper to just buy the motor complete or just get a 3.3 for not much more and put your carb on it!

Hmmm... I mean are there any seals, bearings, or components that will definitely need to be replaced on this engine? What if its corroded inside?

Theres used RTR 3.3 trucks with upgrades and extras for $200-250 in my area... already into this truck $80 so far which isn't bad at all since it was free..not complaining xD. But its gonna definitely need one/both of the remaining servos replaced (cracked), the shocks have rust on them, receiver antenna is snipped, new controller. So another $80 roughly in stuff at least. Might need front diff, tranny & starter motor status is unknown atm.

I will definitely continue cleaning this up tho and see if I can get it running w/o too many more purchases.
 
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Sounds to me the engine needs to be replaced. By the time its all said and done, you probably will put 200+ into it to make it reliable. On the other hand, you would have a brand new motor (BIG PLUS) and new servos. If you go and spend 220 on a used one, you might be back to square 1 and have to replace a ton of stuff. You don't know how it was treated! I have a Maxx in the FS section with a new motor and upgraded servos and 2.4ghz radio for the same price shipped and I bet you I took way better care of it than he did! Either, your going to be into it at around 300 with a truck and a roller or your going to be into it with your current truck at around the guys asking price of his used one!
 
Either, your going to be into it at around 300 with a truck and a roller or your going to be into it with your current truck at around the guys asking price of his used one!

Aha nice sales pitch :p: I agree tho, I see it very quickly approaching $200 to get this truck into a nice, reliable state where I can run it weekly or more.
I looked at your thread tho, I am rather interested honestly... it looks nice! Gotta think about it.
Everything on this truck is a little bent and knowing the previous owner and that it sat in a shed for six years, might just be good for parts or a lonnggg term project.
 
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