new truggy roller

[ohiofordfan]

hey everyone, i was at the track this weekend and bought a used roller hb lightning stadium pro r. this is a whole new monster for me. i can't wait to race it, but i have a few questions. what strength steering servo is common in truggys? and the clutch/flywheel/ bellcrank? is there certain size or pitch i need? how many teeth do i need to start with? thanks for any advise.

 

[Scrogg]

Most truggies run a standard 1/8th 13T CB.
Steering servo needs to be at least 200 oz. of torque
Throttle/Brake needs to be 130 oz. of torque so you have enough power to coreectly set the brake bias.
Both need a transit speed of .15 per second or faster.
www.hotbodiesonline.net Browse their site and you can find out for sure exactly what you need for clutch components.
Also towerhobbies has a good parts list for each car/truck they sell.

 

[ohiofordfan]

thanks scrogg, i'll check it out. there are alot of options with these things. it's a little overwhelming but one piece at a time. still can't wait the truggy class at my local track is very tough. thanks again

 

[ohiofordfan]

well i have to say, after 3 races at the track this thing is fast. i was always racing mt but wanted a truggy. now if i can just learn to drive it. i can say that after i drive truggy class then grab the revo, it's mostly just wot. can't do that with the truggy though.

 

[Scrogg]

Finesse, you'll get it. Slower is faster in the buggy/truggy class, actually all classes. Staying in the groove without being marshalled is the trick. Speed comes later.

 

[Amoeba]

Finesse, you'll get it. Slower is faster in the buggy/truggy class, actually all classes. Staying in the groove without being marshalled is the trick. Speed comes later.

+1!

Slower is faster. The trick is to keep up a consistent pace without being marshalled. You can push truggies a bit harder than buggies but you want to stay just at the top of your comfort level.

As an example, like Scrogg I'm a club-level racer. I'm currently racing in the Puget Sound Fast Boys RC Point Series Challenge which is a 6 race series. Three 5 min qual heats, 30-min mains each race. Because the qual heats are so short you really have to push it to place well for the mains... and I usually don't qualify well since when I push it I end up on my lid and getting marshalled a lot. But in the longer mains I do much better since I can stick to a slower but much more consistent pace. Shockingly I'm somehow holding 6th place overall in points (behind 4 pro drivers!) after 2 race series. I'm not the fastest out there by any stretch of the imagination but the consistency makes a huge difference. However, I'm slowly managing to shave my lap times each outing to where I'm creeping up on the pro's times as I'm getting more experienced. More time on wheels=more easily gained experience.

As for the setup, there are so many things you can change that will affect your performance. What Scrogg lists for minimums on servos is solid advice. I would only suggest a higher torque servo for steering on truggies since the tires have a larger contact surface and need that power to turn easily. 300oz+.

The largest changes in performance and handling are (in order of effect) tires, shocks, suspension, diff, engine. Talk with the fast experienced racers and ping them for a good overall setup. Race it a few times & then make small adjustments from there. Find the right tires for your track, then make small adjustments to your shocks, then suspension, etc etc.

For tight, technical tracks you'll want a gearing setup with lots of low end. If your track has lots of longer mid-high speed sections go with a mid/high end gearing setup. Top speed is rarely hit on most tracks.

 

[ohiofordfan]

thanks for the info guys. i'm working on servos a little at a time. got one this week. it seems i keep spinning out under power. so this week i did the diffs. i bought it used so i had no idea what was in them. i did 7/10/1 but haven't tried it yet. can't wait to see if it changed. our track is medium size and your right i don't think it gets full speed. i was thinking about going up a tooth on the clutchbell to 14. thinking it would take away some bottom end and get more traction. or i could learn to use my finger, lol.

 

[Scrogg]

Go to 5K in the rear, 1k is too light even for a buggy. It will be a lot more predictable in the corners with 5K. 7/10/5 is my current setup, I love it.
Edit; Tires, Tires, Tires...they are the most crucial performance part. a great setup with crappy tires is useless.
What do you have for tires and what is the track surface/dirt like?

 

[ohiofordfan]

i'm gonna see how it acts this weekend since it's done. i will try the 5000 next week and see the difference.
the thing came with some bowties. i got a deal on a new set of holeshots and they are better but i have no idea what the "best" is. we have hard clay and it's gets the blue groove most of the time.
got a video camera awhile back. you can watch me wreck on youtube. goto "rondohal" if you wanna see are track. thanks again

 

[Amoeba]

i'm gonna see how it acts this weekend since it's done. i will try the 5000 next week and see the difference.
the thing came with some bowties. i got a deal on a new set of holeshots and they are better but i have no idea what the "best" is. we have hard clay and it's gets the blue groove most of the time.
got a video camera awhile back. you can watch me wreck on youtube. goto "rondohal" if you wanna see are track. thanks again

Sunrise raceway? Based on the youtube vids I'd call that almost blue groove but not quite. Is it really high traction or a little bit dusty? I prefer AKA tires myself if I'm going pre-mount. You cannot beat AKA's foams, they absolutely rock. Even if I'm mounting my own Pro-Lines I use AKA foams.

For that track I'd recommend hard Cityblocks or I-Beams (or even Gridirons) in hot weather. If it's not a super high traction track (dusty) go with soft Cityblocks. They'll wear fast if the clay has a high sand content but they are absolutely awesome tires for clean tracks with medium traction.

 

[Scrogg]

The new VP tires called Cutoffs work on everything from loam to blue groove and weigh less than a set of holeshots. Hard pack with light sand is what I race on all the time.
4 good races on them and they still hook up like they did when they where new.
I like the AKA tires myself but they are really heavy IMO.
You just about can't go wrong with a set of crimefighters, they work good on a variety of surfaces.

 

[ohiofordfan]

hey guys, well the lsp has got me addicted. so i upgraded to a mbx5t prospec. i have been doing some indoor for the winter and love this thing. the question i have is my shocks. they are not the threaded kind. will mbx6t shocks fit? will any truggy/buggy shocks fit? just wonderin, thanks

 

[Scrogg]

Good question, I'm pretty sure you can make the 6 versions work.
honestly, you should have gotten the 6T. Save up, keep running the stockers if you can. The newer model is def. worth it.

 

[ohiofordfan]

honestly scrogg i would love to have the 6 but can't afford it. i'll stick with this untill things change. the shocks on it work fine i would just like to know in case i find a deal on some. your right though if they work fine just save for the 6 maybe in the spring. lsp to 5t is like wow!

hey scrogg while your here i have a question. seeing your other posts you might be the person to ask. what pipe would you run on a draked trinity .28? i have the 086 on it now and it screams. i was just wonderin what you thought.

 

[Scrogg]

That's the one, I'd leave it on there. No other race legal pipe will make more power. Always wanted to have the .28 Drake for a matching set.