New Engine Wont Run!

[Bmoney989]

I just installed a new OS .15 CV-X in my T-maxx. Backed the low end, and top end screws down then backed off. 2.5 turns back for the top, and 1.5 for the low. Pulled and pulled, it fired up a couple of times. Actually idled for about 10 seconds. Now nothing. I used a brand new glow plug and ignitor so I have ruled that out. One other thing, I turned the carb around so that the throttle was towards the outside of the truck. This allowed me to use my linkage I had for my TRX.15(older maxx engine). Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Domination]

Just because the ignitor and plug is new doesn't means they are properly working so first take the glow plug out and see if it works if it does then you can rule out the ignitor and plug.

Are you getting raw fuel out of the exhaust stinger after you try starting it because you could be running rich. Double check and make shure that those are the correct settings for that mill and readjust them

 

[Bmoney989]

OK, I finally got it running, looks like the idle was shut, or close to it. Now after idling for a minute or so my temp is up to 230?? I dorve it around the yard once and it was like 260. I richened the low end screw and this helped it come down to 215-220 when idling , but now it stalls and I have a hard time restarting. When I lean the low end screw back, it will start up. My top end is set to factory. I am lost now??? :\

 

[Domination]

When does it stall??

 

[Bmoney989]

when I richen the low end.

 

[joneser4u]

hello?sorry having trouble posting,these are common problems for a new mill,run a few tanks and she should start to clear up!

 

[Bmoney989]

I'm just worried about it getting too hot while breaking it in. If it's 260 after one time around the yard I'm sure it will get much hotter running it around thwe street.

 

[joneser4u]

you shouldnt be in grass or anything that puts resistance on the drive line/engine,I recomend moving it to the street or parking lot and make several half throttle passes.You may have to run the tanks 1/3 at a time but it will start to come around after a few tanks.

 

[Bmoney989]

Well I took it out front on the road. It took plenty of pulls to get it started. I turned the low end screw in all the way and then backed it out 1.5 turns. Once running I made a few passes at half throttle (at most) and then checked the temp. It was 270!!! I turned the richened the low end screw a full turn, ran it a couple more passes, checked, and 290!!!! I immedialtely shut it down. Richened the low end screw more and then could not get it to restart??? Seems like it will start when the low end is lean, but it gets way too hot. Not sure where to go from here. :hammer:

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Your low end was probably fine.

Check your High needle now.

 

[Bmoney989]

I set the high end to what the manual says. Turn it in then back it out 2.5 turns. Maybe I shouldn't go by that and back it out another full turn, hmm. I just can't believe it got up to 220(fast) from just idling. Weird

 

[olds97_lss]

If I remember correctly, your not supposed to gauge the low speed from screwing it all the way in. Your supposed to set it to flush with the carb housing, the back it out a turn or so. I'd still richen the high speed 1 full turn.

Is this your first nitro with a pull start? If so, it's a little different to prime the engine. The OS you have should start right up on the second or 3rd pull.

I have broken in and ran two of these engines. One in a ST and one in a maxx. In the maxx, I don't think it was enough engine for the mass size of the truck, but if you don't drive too hard in tall grass, you should be ok.

Crap, I just noticed your not talking about the OS .15 cv-R(x).

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Once you get in around 270, you are actually pretty good.

O.S. will tell you the same. Tune to the performance, and temp within reason. Temp isnt EVERYTHING, but it is VERY IMPORTANT! Its only a guideline. You find tune once you get in that range though.

1/8th turns can make big differences. Whole turns out may DRASTIC and FRUSTRATING differences.

So get back to where you were, and FINE tune from there.

You got it man, you got it.

 

[Bmoney989]

Thanks for all of the help! And yes it is my first pullstart engine. I have been priming it like the others by puting my finger over the exhaust for a couple of pulls. man I got blisters from pullin that baby so many times today. I can really tell when its gonna start though, the pulls get smoother and then it fires up.

 

[Diver6127]

Originally posted by Bmoney989
Well I took it out front on the road. It took plenty of pulls to get it started. I turned the low end screw in all the way and then backed it out 1.5 turns. Once running I made a few passes at half throttle (at most) and then checked the temp. It was 270!!! I turned the richened the low end screw a full turn, ran it a couple more passes, checked, and 290!!!! I immedialtely shut it down. Richened the low end screw more and then could not get it to restart??? Seems like it will start when the low end is lean, but it gets way too hot. Not sure where to go from here. :hammer:

You need to adjust the HSN not the LSN. LSN is more of a "final tuning" when it comes to acceleration and the like. You're probably blowing out the glowplug with too much fuel. Bring it back to factory settings. HSN= 2 turns from closed, LSN=flush. Retune from there. Remember, on the LSN, a little goes a long way do it aith 1/8 turns at a time. 1/4 turns for the HSN. It's going to take a couple of passes for the carb to accept the tune so be patient.

 

[StaticSag]

Had the same problem once before.....found out later with the rich settings for break in I was overpriming the engine and causeing it to flood. If its hard to pull then maybe you might be overpriming causing fuel lock up in the cylinder. If it gets hard to pull, loosen the glow plug a bit and relieve the pressure by pulling a few times.

The rest of these guys have covered everything else

Good luck

Saggy

 

[Bmoney989]

OK, today I did what you guys advised and set the Low End to flush. This seemed to work. Got it running for a while at 240, running really good. Then all of the sudden it got up to like 290. I richened the HSN a full turn and ran a couple more passes, same temp. Shut her down. Checked things out, found out one of the head screws was loose. Tightened it up and took it out again. First couple of passes it was still kinda hot at like 270 or so. Richened the HSn 1/4 turn and ran a couple more passes. Now it's running at 240 and solid!! :whistle: Seems like it finally took the settigns and stuck with them. I ran it wide open a few passes (after4 tanks) and still 240, so I am one happy camper. It was cool outside, about 70 deg., hopefully I can lean the bottom end out a lil bit and keep the temp around 250. Is it safe to take to the track tomorrow and try it out? I will have had about 6 tanks through it before the track.
Brian

 

[Diver6127]

Glad to see that things are working out well.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Yep - its safe. Like I said before, small turns. Now you are VERY close to the sweet spot. So just go in 8th turns from where you are now. After the 8th turn on the LSN, run it for a few minutes hard. You will see a difference. Then go another 8th if you think you can. And then run it hard. You will see what I am talking about when I say you need to run it for a few to see the actual change take place.

Now here is the kicker. From day to day and weather to weather, you will sometimes have to slightly adjust your needles from where they are. No matter how well it is tuned today. Its just the way it is.

So start thinking SMALL TURN INCREMENTS from here.

Even 16th turns.

 

[lykan]

The low needle can be a biotch! once I finally find a good setting for my LSN i rarely turn it in more than 1/16th increments. If I have to go more than 1/4 turn on the LSN I will reset to factory and retune.

I find it's better to get a "it will run rich" setting, and use that as a guide to start tuning from any time I am having diffuclty.