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needed durability

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B

backyard.beast

Gone - bye bye.
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i have a t-maxx 3.3 and it needs to be more durable i flip it alot what should i get
 
Personally I would advise you to get a lot more patience. You need to understand that stuff happens. That is RC. If you can not handle it sell your rig and move on to a hobby you can handle. It isn't the rig, it is you. Sorry to be so blunt, but someone needs to be, for your sake.
 
like dude I'm just trying to make it more durible cause i flip it 24/7
 
Try making adjustments to your suspension. Move the lower shock mounts out toward the tires. Add some pre-load to your shocks to help reduce your un-sprung weight.
 
monster trucks are known to be top heavy.. you can't fly into a corner and expect it to stick. as stated before, try lowering your ride height, that will help alot. move the shocks to holes that make the truck set lower. have you broken anything? if so what did you break, we can tell you what to get that will make it stronger.

just a guess, i would say, rpm arms, and a roll bar at least. a thicker body will help alot without the added weight of a roll cage.
 
A rollcage is not something I would put on the top of my list. Suspension arms, bulkheads and hingepins are very good first upgrades to help with durability. You can spend a little or you can spend a lot. Just don't buy Integy for any of those parts.
 
backyard.beast said:
i need a roll cage tho
Click to expand...

Damnit.

If you already know what you need then why waste our fuckin' time with a thread asking for advise you seem to be able to give yourself? If you need a rollcage then go buy a damn rollcage, but don't ask for advice only to shrug it off when you get it.

I've had a T-Maxx of some sort for 5 years. I've had it stock, with twin engines, with a multitude of different upgrades from many different manufacturers, it's been back to stock and back to big block configuration. It's currently a 99.7% aftermarket truck with the best of the best when it comes to durability, looks and performance. I'm telling you.. YOU DO NOT NEED A ROLLCAGE. You need aluminum bulkheads from a reputable manufacturer like Fastlane Machine, titanium hinge pins made by Lunsford, nylon suspension arms made by RPM and a good heavy duty body made by Proline. If my advice is not good enough for you then mayb RC Addict was right.. the problem isn't the truck, it's the driver.
 
Lessen said:
You need aluminum bulkheads from a reputable manufacturer like Fastlane Machine, titanium hinge pins made by Lunsford, nylon suspension arms made by RPM and a good heavy duty body made by Proline.
Click to expand...

I'd advise against a cage. They bend easily and make a rig generally hard to work on. However, I'd advise you to get a good roll bar. The one you linked too though is pretty much just cosmetic plastic bits, which won't do for what you want.

I'd also strongly advise you get the above list of stuff that Lessen as suggested along with some RCS spring steel skids (front and rear), alloy chassis rails an alloy center skid and a good roll bar. Then you will have a truck that can take a decent beating and continue going.

Here's a link to FLM stuff:
http://www.fastlanemachine.com/PublicPortal/NitroProducts/TMaxx/tabid/55/Default.aspx

Or you could use one of our site sponsors:
East End Machine: http://www.eastendmachining.com/tmaandemahop.html
Golden Horizons: http://ghhobby.com/products.php?cat=5

Just fight the urge to replace your towers and arms with alloy. It will just bend and be a waste and possibly bend/break other items.

For a basher:
RPM Arms, towers, axle carriers (RPM has a new true track set for the rear which removes the rear turnbuckles and has better carriers)
Alloy bulks, bulk braces, center skid, chassis rails
Plastic or RCS spring steel front/rear skids
Lunsford pins/turnbuckles/pivotballs

Back to your original query for a roll cage. I'd suggest this:
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=3156

Easier to work around and tough as you can buy. I had their older 3-point version as this version is newer. I would have went with this one if they had it 7 years ago. I wish they had a photo of this so I could see what it is, it may be worth getting along with the roll bar I mentioned:
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=8461

The roll bar doesn't allow the body to compress as much as without it, which helps the body last longer.
 
backyard.beast said:
alot
Click to expand...

beason said:
alot
Click to expand...
:angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry:

Whats so hard about a space between the letter a and lot??

Sorry, pet peave. :hehe:

But anyways, there seems to be a_lot of people joining this forum everyday. They all keep making these BS threads about something completely useless, and won't take the advice given.

Many of the people here know what they are talking about, they have all been down the same path as you before. They have all tried this before. When they say you DO NOT need something, they aren't just saying it to hear there self speak.

This is a very hard hobby to just jump into, and requires a hell of a lot of time and effort to stay with it. You HAVE to be patient and if not, go away, this isn't right for you. Learn to drive it before you go out and making jumps and bashing hard on it.


I know this has been said already, BUT, the Maxx truck needs some things to be stronger, and thats Aluminum bulkheads, RPM A-arms/caster blocks/Shock towers, Lunsford Hinge pins/Turnbuckles.

I actually disagree with Olds as far as aluminum chassis braces, That spot on the truck is probably one of the strongest spots of the truck and I believe that an impact hard enough to break one, is enough to bend a aluminum pair.


Take the advice given on this forum or leave. If you know everything, then why do you need to be here?
 
LosiLST said:
I actually disagree with Olds as far as aluminum chassis braces, That spot on the truck is probably one of the strongest spots of the truck and I believe that an impact hard enough to break one, is enough to bend a aluminum pair.
Click to expand...

It's ok to disagree. ;)

The only reason I mentioned is is because I stripped out a few sets and actually broke the front ends off 3 of them. I used traxxas (the most expensive you could friggen find) alloy braces and never had a problem with them again.
 
olds97_lss said:
It's ok to disagree. ;)

The only reason I mentioned is is because I stripped out a few sets and actually broke the front ends off 3 of them. I used traxxas (the most expensive you could friggen find) alloy braces and never had a problem with them again.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's one of those person things I guess, some people like 'em, some don't.



For all the new people around here.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
LosiLST said:
I actually disagree with Olds as far as aluminum chassis braces, That spot on the truck is probably one of the strongest spots of the truck and I believe that an impact hard enough to break one, is enough to bend a aluminum pair.
Click to expand...

I actually agree with this as well. It's one of those scenarios where the cost of the upgrade doesn't buy you it's value in increased durability.

MGT8.0owner said:
is there really supposed to be a space between the a and the lot cause i right alot like this alot
Click to expand...

Yes. "a lot" is proper grammer.
 

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