Need help with what engine to chose for my Serpant Impact

[onza120]

Well my previous thread i don't think it going to get answered, The carb on my current engine has no idle screw and doesn't stop revving due to that fact.

I want to put a new engine in my Serpant but I'm unsure where to start, How i know if it will fit, And will my type of throttle arm be supported?

Most engines i see dont have clutch's and i have no clue how to put one on so i would prefer a engine that just needs putting in, but if it comes to it i will buy one without and look at a guide or something.

Here is my serpant impact, Now where I'm a little confused, I have another blown engine of a kyosho but it wouldnt fit as the exhaust is on the wrong way, This chassis needs a engine that has a exhauast that comes out towards the back and bends round to the front, Well atleast that was what was previously in it (Os max 10 FP engine)

Also i need one that will fit my specific engine mount holes.

Here is a pic of what i mean

it also has a rod to hold the exhaust so i dont think a exhaust can be directly mounted to the chassis.

here is another pic of my throttle arm, it doesn't have a plastic open circle at the end, Instead its a rod that it attached to a plastic leaver that come on my os max 10 fp engine, So i dunno if i can change that rod for a plastic circle one or just get a engine that has a carb that supports the rod.

any help would be appreciated, I just wanna run this bad boy!!!

 

[Nitrotrout]

Man, that's an unusual situation you have.
Vintage car with an airplane engine WTH?
I'm guessing your knowledge with nitro rc engines is limited?
This is what I think you should do, buy this engine before it disappears.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/O-S-Max-10-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d48cb76f5
Guaranteed to fit since you have this engine already.

Before you consider dropping any engine in that car, you gotta change out that fuel tank.
You're gonna have all sorts of tuning issues with that gallon can screw cap.
Since your car is vintage and probably tough to find replacement parts, you may have to adapt a Serpent Impact 2 fuel tank or something similar.
here's some pics of what your car should look like complete
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=90490&sid=19103

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

Vintage car with an airplane engine WTH?

It's not an airplane engine; it's an OS CZ series, ca. '90-'93, IIRC.

onza-

Unless you buy used or a new take-out, engines do not come with flywheels & clutches. Moreover, the chances of getting a used or take-out engine with a correct flywheel and bell for your car are not good.

There are lots of options out there all over the board quality and price-wise. Any small block will fit, but you need to first consider the crankshaft style (short/long threaded or SG type), and carburetor (rotary or slide). Looks like that car had a rotary carb, as the arm is still hanging off the linkage. Can't tell you if crankshaft type based on the picture, but I believe all of the CZ series engines were long threaded, using a deep flywheel or spacer, and a clutch adapter nut.

Also, need to know if you're going to race or not, and if so, the specifications of your class. If memory serves, ROAR 1/10 on-road is limited to .15 size 3-port engines, but club level will vary greatly.

Tell us a little more, and we can better assist you with engine choice. Basically need to know what you intend to do with the car, the level of performance you desire, and what your budget is.

 

[Nitrotrout]

Well atleast that was what was previously in it (Os max 10 FP engine)

Also i need one that will fit my specific engine mount holes.

I'm guessing by your other posts you're new to nitro engines?
If that's the case I think your safest bet is to replace your current engine with a duplicate of what you already have.
You know it's going to fit with no modifications.
You could mix and match engines, hoping that some other model of engine would work (which it probably would), but why take the chance?
On an old school chassis with limited engine space, its a gamble.

It's not an airplane engine; it's an OS CZ series, ca. '90-'93, IIRC.

According to OS, the Os max 10 FP engine is an airplane engine. It appears whoever told Onza this is a 10 FP gave him bad information.
http://www.osengines.com/parts/discontinued.html

 

[onza120]

Thanks for the reply's guys, I managed to get my old engine working, I fixed the carb idle gap, but still had a problem with it turning wheels at idle, So took clutch out and spring is snapped, So ordered new clutch assembly, Its for .12 to .18 engines, I'm unsure what mine is but i hope it fits, Only problem I'm left with is the high speed needle on my engine leaks fuel, I have blew into the needle and air comes out top, I think its near impossible to find a replacement needle, So is there something that can seal metal?

And whats wrong with the screw on fuel tank?

And i do want a new engine eventually, I don't plan on club racing, I just want a fast car to rag around and maybe drifting eventually.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

So ordered new clutch assembly, Its for .12 to .18 engines, I'm unsure what mine is but I hope it fits,

What exactly did you order? There is some cross-compatibility between brands, but small block set-ups tend to be much more proprietary than 3-shoe big block clutches.

Why don't you snap a picture of your disassembled clutch, as well as the inside of the bell, the pilot shaft and the flywheel. Also, throw a measurement on the depth and inside diameter of the bell.

According to OS, the Os max 10 FP engine is an airplane engine. It appears whoever told Onza this is a 10 FP gave him bad information.

I missed the part of his post where he claimed it a 10 FP, but yes, clearly he was told wrong.

This is a 10 FP

 

[onza120]

What exactly did you order? There is some cross-compatibility between brands, but small block set-ups tend to be much more proprietary than 3-shoe big block clutches.

Why don't you snap a picture of your disassembled clutch, as well as the inside of the bell, the pilot shaft and the flywheel. Also, throw a measurement on the depth and inside diameter of the bell.



I missed the part of his post where he claimed it a 10 FP, but yes, clearly he was told wrong.

This is a 10 FP

I ordered this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330927563635?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Here is some pics of my flywheel and clutch bell etc.

The pins on the flywheel look short, but hopefully the clutch i ordered fits.

And I'm only reading what it says on the engine, One side it says OS MAX 10
Other side it says
-
F
P
-

So i assume its a OS MAX 10 FP

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

The pins on the flywheel look short, but hopefully the clutch i ordered fits.

The style will work, though it may require fitting a la dremel/file/drill.

And yes, those are definitely some short pins!

And I'm only reading what it says on the engine, One side it says OS MAX 10
Other side it says
-
F
P
-

So I assume its a OS MAX 10 FP

Could be that someone stuck an 11 CZ carb and head on a 10 FP. Not sure why one would do that, but it would seem to be the case. Definitely a CZ head. There's no mistaking that one.

 

[onza120]

What you mean dremel? why would i need to drill anything :S?

And yeah the engine kinda feels like a fiddlesticks breed of mess, Especially that horrible carb, Never known a carb to have no idle screw but use the low end screw to hold the carb into place.

I still need a way of sealing the metal high speed needle or I'm gonna have to run it without a needle which will probably be too rich, The one that comes with the OS airplane engines looks like its the same.

 

[hamz9561]

Dremels are also used for cutting and grinding.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

What you mean dremel? why would I need to drill anything :S?

As Hamz said, you would use a dremel for cutting & shaping if, for example, the shoes are too tall, or you may need to clip the ends if the diameter is slightly large for your clutch bell.

Drill may be required to fit the dowels on the flywheel into the clutch shoes. Or maybe not. Just have to wait & see.

Get us some close-ups on that carb, maybe we can help. At minimum, it is missing the spring steel piece that prevents the needle turning from vibration, but I can't see much else.

 

[Nitrotrout]

the high speed needle on my engine leaks fuel, I have blew into the needle and air comes out top, I think its near impossible to find a replacement needle, So is there something that can seal metal?

And whats wrong with the screw on fuel tank?

Are there any identifying markings on your carb?
The OS website has parts lists for all their discontinued engines.
Using the OSMG catalog numbers you'll find quite a few parts for engines like yours on ebay and a few online hobby stores .
http://www.osengines.com/parts/xr11300.html


The problem with your screw on fuel tank cap is more likely than not you're
going to have an air leak. Your tank needs to be air tight. That's why fuel tank lids have an O ring built into them
Air leaks in your system can create a sporadic lean condition which make consistent tuning difficult if not impossible.

You can test your tank for leaks. Spray the outside down with soapy water,
pinch one fuel line while blowing air into the other. If the soapy water bubbles up, you have an air leak.. Your engine can be tested the same way.

As far as your clutch shoes go, you may be able to replace just the spring, clean up the shoes a bit and be done with it. Those shoes don't appear to be worn down too much.

 

[onza120]

Are there any identifying markings on your carb?
The OS website has parts lists for all their discontinued engines.
Using the OSMG catalog numbers you'll find quite a few parts for engines like yours on ebay and a few online hobby stores .
http://www.osengines.com/parts/xr11300.html


The problem with your screw on fuel tank cap is more likely than not you're
going to have an air leak. Your tank needs to be air tight. That's why fuel tank lids have an O ring built into them
Air leaks in your system can create a sporadic lean condition which make consistent tuning difficult if not impossible.

You can test your tank for leaks. Spray the outside down with soapy water,
pinch one fuel line while blowing air into the other. If the soapy water bubbles up, you have an air leak.. Your engine can be tested the same way.

As far as your clutch shoes go, you may be able to replace just the spring, clean up the shoes a bit and be done with it. Those shoes don't appear to be worn down too much.

I used the website you linked and found the part number for the needle and there is one on ebay! It's in america but it will do if i need it, I'm pretty sure if i dont screw the needle in too much it works fine!

As for the fuel tank i dont know what other fuel tanks fit, I would kill for a original serpant impact fuel tank but i doubt that's gonna happen will be impossible to find.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

That looks like a Kyosho fuel tank.

If the rubber in the cap is good, it should work fine. It is, however, a pain to deal with screw-on caps for refuel while running.

 

[onza120]

I phoned serpant, And they picked up at 7:30PM on a sunday!!!!!!!, the guy on the phone was very friendly and helpful, and i should be getting a manual emailed to me if not he will send it, And he said they also still stock spares for the impact, so once i get the manual i just give them part numbers and i can order parts i need, Which is a suprise because its vintage, So i can hopefully restore this badboy and get proper fuel tank etc.

 

[Nitrotrout]

That's great news buddy. I'm looking forward to seeing it up and running.
Post some pics and updates of your progress :thumbup:

 

[onza120]

I have got the car up and running, But i got a few issues, my steering is off, When i turn on the reciever it goes to the right or left can't remember, But i have to change my trim all the way left or whatever to get it kinda straight, There is rods that attach from servo arm to wheel that i can adjust but the servo still moves when i turn on reciever not sure what to do there.


Also i put on my new clutch but there is a clamp that secures it the big one that goes over the actual clutch shoes and its lost so i been running it without that but I'm worried about what issues that could cause and sometimes it can move a little on its own, But for the life of me i can't find a clutch shoe clamp.

 

[Nitrotrout]

Compare measurements of your steering turnbuckles. There should be equal measurement between each tie rod end. I usually square up my front wheels with zero toe in or toe out.
Then, remove the servo horn from the steering servo, turn on your transmitter and receiver, and zero out the steering trim on your transmitter.
Square up your front wheels and reinstall your servo horn.

Can you post a pic of your clutch bell assembly? Most clutch bells I know of are held onto the crankshaft with a washer and screw, or a washer and E clip

 

[onza120]

its not the alligment thats the problem, The actual servo is to the right even with the trim set netural, I have a video here.

yeah i have the clip for the end of the clutch bell, The clip i need is within the clutch bell it holds the shoes to the flywheel.