Need help with diff fluids

[StrechM]

I'm considering dropping a higher hp big block into my SUT. Without going out and breaking the bank on torsen diffs do you think that going to higher viscosity than 10,000wt in the front diff may help distibute the power better?

I currently have the stock .25 and for fun was thinking about dropping my Sirio .27 pro into it. The diff fluids now are 10,000 front, 30,000 center and 3,000wt rear. The 10,000wt fluid in the front diff is barely doing the job at this time with the stock engine. One of the local techs suggested I move up to as much as 30,000wt in the front. I need some feedback on this one.

 

[ToRqUe]

I have no feedback but i also have some question that i need feedback for also...

1. What is a Torsen Diff. an ho is it different from the stock Diffs.
2. Why so much Oil-Weight, wouldnt that make the engine work harder 2 spin the diffs. ???
3.These Oil-weights are Silicone Oil's right ???

 

[StrechM]

From GS's site:
Torsen diffs apply power to the tire with the most amount of resistance, meaning the tire that has contact with the ground will receive power instead of the tire up in the air.
To understand and appreciate what the Fioroni Storm Traction Diffs do to your car, you must first understand how the regular gear differentials work. When the car negotiates a turn, the inside tire must rotate at a slower speed compared to the outside tire in order to compensate for the smaller turning radius. This is accomplished by the aid of an open diff. This also helps to prevent the rear tires from spinning and losing control, or locking causing the car to drift sideways. The draw back to an open diff is that when one tire loses traction, the differential will continue to send power to that tire (tire with the least resistance) and it will continue to spin, thus reducing forward traction and/or turning speed. What the Fioroni Storm Traction diff does is send power to the tire or tires that have traction (tire(s) with most resistance) instead of sending power to non-traction tires and thus help your car maintain speed and traction. This will help you maneuver out of turns better and quicker, as well as pull you through straight lines faster. Your car will feel much more responsive, and when used properly, will result in faster lap times and longer tire wear.
http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/page.asp?pg=products&catid=73&fatherid=56&rootid=0
Upper right hand side of the page you will see a Fioroni torsen diff. Follow the link.


My issue:
The points at which the front tires do not or only slightly touch the ground is where the problem lies. They are still ballooning slightly which is making the truck pull slightly to one side at close to wot. I'll be replacing the stock set of tires with a set of proline bowties, foams and dish wheels this weekend to try and cure part of the problem. Maybe the higher vicosity diff fluid with work, maybe not. Thought that I would give it a try before laying out $100-200. I could be way off of base here and was hoping that some of you would have the answers.

ToRqUe, your questions,
#1 is answered above.
#2 is precisely, to try and distribute more power to the rear since the front is the issue.
#3 it is silicone oil.

 

[1meathead]

Hey to help with the tires put tape around the inside of the tire. Use the box tape with the string in it. I know a few people that do this and I also saw it in one of the mags a few months back. Flip the tire inside out and put the tap on the flip it back and build the tire back like norm. Try that cheep fix.

 

[El Pirata]

Stretch, I will always run higher in my center than any other diff so if you go up to 30k in your front you might want to consider 50k in the center. While whole heartedly I believe firmly in the higher weight jelly (can't really call it an oil or fluid at that level) in all my diffs, 50k front, 100k center and 30k rear. Just my preference.

 

[CorradoPsi]

is just one front tire balloning right now, or both? if both try using thicker fluid in the center first. but as EP said thicker oils overall would help. most of the truggy guys I've talked with run oils that are thicker like EP quoted you. those big tires need a much heavier oil than buggies do to control them. bigger tires have a much higher flywheel effect and as the weight of the tire increases, the effect increases exponentially.

 

[alkyula]

Hey to help with the tires put tape around the inside of the tire. Use the box tape with the string in it. I know a few people that do this and I also saw it in one of the mags a few months back. Flip the tire inside out and put the tap on the flip it back and build the tire back like norm. Try that cheep fix.

this seems like it would stop the tires from ballooning, but that wont stop the diff from causing the inside wheel to recieve all the power during a hard corner as the wheel comes off the ground.

 

[StrechM]

Stretch, I will always run higher in my center than any other diff so if you go up to 30k in your front you might want to consider 50k in the center. While whole heartedly I believe firmly in the higher weight jelly (can't really call it an oil or fluid at that level) in all my diffs, 50k front, 100k center and 30k rear. Just my preference.

That is similar what I got in another forum thread from some of the SUT racers and bashers. 50-100k center with 30-50k front and 10k rear. It sounds like I should almost lock the center and leave a little play at the front.
It's very marginal with 10-30-3k in it now. Either front tire will balloon, whichever is making the least amount of contact at close to wot.

Thanks gentlemen!

 

[ToRqUe]

El Pirata,
You usa a very how diff. fluid...If u race some1 w/ less viscosity wouldnt they beat the pant off you because.....there engine is workin' less harder an the wheels are turnning faster... ???

 

[El Pirata]

With my current setup I don't get ballooned tires with or without foams. Using really thick oil is a few steps below actually locking and for the most part the power from the engine goes directly to the tires. I would add that I don't recommend this type of setup for strictly street or mostly street driving. I have very few street miles on my buggies and most of that is testing out in front of my house.

 

[StrechM]

50k front diff, 100k center diff, 3k rear diff, front shocks 80wt, rear shocks 100wt. The diff fluid change helped but did not completely solve the problem. The higher weight shock oil did. It tracks as straight as an arrow on dirt or pavement. No more front diff unloading problems. Now it's set for this weekend.