My X Maxx Mods: After 2 weeks of running it

[HMS]

Greetings,

I am new to the forum and hope this insight is useful.

After 2 weeks of running my new X Maxx on our property, I realized—the roof was taking hits in rollovers, and the skid plates grind over jumps.

My goals for my X Maxx—reliable high speed off-road/jumper, desert truck (no concrete only dirt/rocks/grass), 40mph top speed, and replace things that will break with quality components.

1. Lower the CG (center of gravity): Add weight on the undercarriage to lower the CG while adding 2mm steel.
2. Ensure that hard hits do not concentrate/transfer forces into the weakest component(s): By adding 2mm steel as modular armor vs. removing/replacing plastics composites with metal should avoid that—as the modular is a layer on top of the composite. There are aftermarket pieces where you remove the plastic/composite and replace with aluminum—which does not add more weight low and creates impact transfer issues (aluminum vs. plastic/composite).
3. Learn what works and does not for the X Maxx in a respectful manner. I’m a novice to this truck.

That said, here is what I added:

1. 20 minute install: Underbody skid plates from Amazon (note: I mounted only the 3 center skid plates (it came with outer plates which are engraved with “Traxxas and X Maxx”, which I don’t need as I want the mass around the center of the truck)—plus nothing hits the bottom off center (unnecessary weight).
2. 30 minute install: Roof skid plate was installed by my local dealer (it works as advertised based on the gouges when I rolled the truck while chasing the dogs).

NOTE: The center piece fits perfectly and notches under the rear skid plate—which locks it in place. Be careful, as that 3M tape is not forgiving—recommend notching the rear first and then aligning the front fitment.

Here are a few photos.

 

[Greywolf74]

You may want to eventually look in to one of the "indestructible" bodies on ebay and sounds like you may need some thicker shock fluid and/or stiffer springs.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Welcome in, awesome rig.
You want a little bit of chassis slap, otherwise the shocks will be too stiff and harder to control.

 

[STONER RC]

Welcome to the house of RC addicts.. nice X man looking good... I love mine it's a awesome truck.. there are some things you won't be able to do to it as it's a monster truck bud sorry.. Definitely want to protect your chassis..But i wouldnt have gone with stainless steel. In that set up it might bend or be brittle.. and not really help with protecting your center plate look into T-BONE racing has very strong skid plates. It actually hovers over the chassis and is one big solid piece... if jumping heavier wt shock oil better springs.. RPM rear hubs.. I personally would stay away from aluminum anything.. as it will change break pints in the truck....Definitely get harden steel gears pinon/ spur all of them as they are aluminum.. . Definitely a fasteddy bearing set.. the lowering of the CG really won't be able to achieve. It's designed to be a monster truck.. adding weight to bottom won't do anything to the CG unless you change your shock oil to a 20wt. But that's just not good at all for that size of a truck.. guess you are trying to get it to have better handling? With better shock set up and different springs you can get some what better handling. But you won't be maken turns at high speeds that's for sure bud sorry to say... the electronics are OK just OK ... better servo eventually. And if doing speed run upgrading the esc will be a must. There's alot that can be done with the X. It all come down to $$$ and your budget and plans for it... I love mine... if you have any ? Or need any advice we are all here man... and thank you for your service

 

[HMS]

Welcome to the house of RC addicts.. nice X man looking good... I love mine it's a awesome truck.. there are some things you won't be able to do to it as it's a monster truck bud sorry.. Definitely want to protect your chassis..But i wouldnt have gone with stainless steel. In that set up it might bend or be brittle.. and not really help with protecting your center plate look into T-BONE racing has very strong skid plates. It actually hovers over the chassis and is one big solid piece... if jumping heavier wt shock oil better springs.. RPM rear hubs.. I personally would stay away from aluminum anything.. as it will change break pints in the truck....Definitely get harden steel gears pinon/ spur all of them as they are aluminum.. . Definitely a fasteddy bearing set.. the lowering of the CG really won't be able to achieve. It's designed to be a monster truck.. adding weight to bottom won't do anything to the CG unless you change your shock oil to a 20wt. But that's just not good at all for that size of a truck.. guess you are trying to get it to have better handling? With better shock set up and different springs you can get some what better handling. But you won't be maken turns at high speeds that's for sure bud sorry to say... the electronics are OK just OK ... better servo eventually. And if doing speed run upgrading the esc will be a must. There's alot that can be done with the X. It all come down to $$$ and your budget and plans for it... I love mine... if you have any ? Or need any advice we are all here man... and thank you for your service

Stoner,

I appreciate the tips—and am anticipating breaking, replacing, and learning. I’m not looking to turn it into a great handling truck. I simply don’t need to do backflips and stuff as I prefer just bombing along cow pastures and airing it out on grassy/rocky land.

Once something inevitably breaks, I’ll be leaning on the experts to figure out what to replace stuff with.

Again, thank you for the tips and welcome.

 

[STONER RC]

Stoner,

I appreciate the tips—and am anticipating breaking, replacing, and learning. I’m not looking to turn it into a great handling truck. I simply don’t need to do backflips and stuff as I prefer just bombing along cow pastures and airing it out on grassy/rocky land.

Once something inevitably breaks, I’ll be leaning on the experts to figure out what to replace stuff with.

Again, thank you for the tips and welcome.

No problem man.. that's how I do it mine is about 6-7 months old and still mostly stock.. just center plate a arms on order. New stiffer springs heavier oil wt.. shock covers. And hardened steel gears.. different diff fluid... and I still haven't used the stupid auto flip that's how you destroy your diffs and tires.. I added some tire glue to the loose spot on stick tires.... didn't mean you had to do anything bud sorry if it came off that way man..
From the factory:
theres just certain thing like check diff fluid some come very low..and can rip gears apart along with auto flip... so should add more...Harden steel gears.. if doing speed runs or bombing across feilds.. RPM threaded hing pins. If jumping the sticks come out time to time from landings... if you have a ?? There is always answers in here.. hope you enjoy the X ma.

 

[HMS]

No problem man.. that's how I do it mine is about 6-7 months old and still mostly stock.. just center plate a arms on order. New stiffer springs heavier oil wt.. shock covers. And hardened steel gears.. different diff fluid... and I still haven't used the stupid auto flip that's how you destroy your diffs and tires.. I added some tire glue to the loose spot on stick tires.... didn't mean you had to do anything bud sorry if it came off that way man..
From the factory:
theres just certain thing like check diff fluid some come very low..and can rip gears apart along with auto flip... so should add more...Harden steel gears.. if doing speed runs or bombing across feilds.. RPM threaded hing pins. If jumping the sticks come out time to time from landings... if you have a ?? There is always answers in here.. hope you enjoy the X ma.

Stoner,

All is good as I don’t take anything personally online.

I appreciate the insights—especially regarding maintenance, gearing, diff oils, etc. I do a lot of speed runs across our field with random softball, baseball, sized rocks (which is why I put the skid plate on). Matter of fact I tagged the edge of a rock at speed and am glad I have the steel front skid plate, as that it took the hit pretty well as an extra layer over the stock plastic skid plate which had a few prior scars (see photo).

100% agree about the auto-flip which makes zero sense to me—respectfully/in humility unless one is wheelchair bound/disabled for which it is a good feature. I believe that feature was designed to trash drivetrains and damage bodywork otherwise.

Questions:

1. How often do you check/change the diff fluid? Any general maintenance tips of course are appreciated. I have the basics down (use my air compressor to blow away dust/dirt/grit, keep the truck away from water which isn’t an issue here).
2. Shock covers? Your recommendations. I figure that will help give the shock seals a bit of help against the dirt/grit.
3. Hinge pins, which ones?
4. Wheels/tires—any thoughts on the ProLine Badlands vs. Traxxas 8s stock. I like the factory tire/wheel setup and will check the glue. Eventually, I imagine I will need new tires/wheels and thinking ahead.

Glad to share, listen, and learn as this is why we are here.

 

[HMS]

Welcome in, awesome rig.
You want a little bit of chassis slap, otherwise the shocks will be too stiff and harder to control.

Tunedpipe,

What is “chassis slap”?

Learning the terminology. Thanks.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I swear, you guys in this forum just rock. I've had so much help from you people...

 

[STONER RC]

Have you ever checked the diff fluid. When you got the truck? If not then check them.. sometimes the diffs come with low fluid. And which the diff gears will be destroyed.. I check mine every couple runs.. I also changed mine to 50 front and 50rear.. stock is 50front 30 rear.should be in you manual.. I completely tore my X down the day I got it screw for screw.. have you switch your gears from stock ones yet?? If not I highly recommend harden steel ones. The stock gears will strip if not meshed correctly... so will the steel but much harder to do water is ok not swimming in a lake. but with the correct tires and gears it will drive on water.. this is my X skid . And shock covers the skid floats it's not against the center plate like other do like you mentioned.. the shock covers are from fullforcerc.com. and these are the hinge pins go in the holds lower arm to bulkhead and extra set of steel gears just in case I have.. along with a bunch of other stuff chassis slap is when the bottom of your truck slaps the ground when landing from a jump

I swear, you guys in this forum just rock. I've had so much help from you people...

View attachment 132353

I got you bud

 

[Tunedfrog]

Tunedpipe,

What is “chassis slap”?

Learning the terminology. Thanks.

Pretty much self-explanatory my man, when the car comes down hard it bottoms out and the chassis hits the ground. That's chassis slap,
When your shock or suspension are too stiff, your car will be harder to control so a little chassis slap isn't bad at all.
That's were driver preference comes in. Adjust it to your liking. I've had rigs that were too stiff because I adjusted them that way and I couldn't control my car very well. I loosened up it a bit and it was much easier to control.

 

[STONER RC]

Pretty much self-explanatory my man, when the car comes down hard it bottoms out and the chassis hits the ground. That's chassis slap,
When your shock or suspension are too stiff, your car will be harder to control so a little chassis slap isn't bad at all.

I put 60wt with VVracing springs. Does pretty good. Should be able to drop the truck from a standing position and have the bottom barley hit the ground "chassis slap"
I still run the stock tires.. I like them as well if I switch it will probably be the 6packs from duratrac

 

[Tunedfrog]

There is a few things to consider with the suspension. Spring tensioners, that's the little rings at the top of your shocks, the wt of your shock oil, and position of the shocks play a roll also. There isn't anything chiseled in stone so you just have to work with it a little bit and find out what works the best for you.
The knowledge of these guys in here play a huge roll and they love to answer questions.
I'm not a master of any of it but I play one on tv..

 

[STONER RC]

It's all trial and error. Till you get the truck the way you want it to handle and land from jumps

There is a few things to consider with the suspension. Spring tensioners, that's the little rings at the top of your shocks, the wt of your shock oil, and position of the shocks play a roll also. There isn't anything chiseled in stone so you just have to work with it a little bit and find out what works the best for you.
The knowledge of these guys in here play a huge roll and they love to answer questions.
I'm not a master of any of it but I play one on tv..

Well you can't change the X shock position. Well they due make a adapter that goes on the top bulk. That allows you to change it. I believe it's by GPM
I also make sure my wheel bearings are oiled after every run ready for the next one

 

[Tunedfrog]

I learn something new every day...

 

[HMS]

Have you ever checked the diff fluid. When you got the truck? If not then check them.. sometimes the diffs come with low fluid. And which the diff gears will be destroyed.. I check mine every couple runs.. I also changed mine to 50 front and 50rear.. stock is 50front 30 rear.should be in you manual.. I completely tore my X down the day I got it screw for screw.. have you switch your gears from stock ones yet?? If not I highly recommend harden steel ones. The stock gears will strip if not meshed correctly... so will the steel but much harder to do water is ok not swimming in a lake. but with the correct tires and gears it will drive on water.. this is my X skid . And shock covers the skid floats it's not against the center plate like other do like you mentioned.. the shock covers are from fullforcerc.com. and these are the hinge pins go in the holds lower arm to bulkhead and extra set of steel gears just in case I have.. along with a bunch of other stuff chassis slap is when the bottom of your truck slaps the ground when landing from a jump

I got you bud

Stoner, greatly appreciated.

 

[STONER RC]

Any time bud I'm up buffing the plastics to the rc restoration I'm doing I have a problem

 

[Greywolf74]

Chassis slap is one of those things you kinda have to tune your suspension for. A little slap isnt bad but to much slap and you start busting things like fan blades and motor mount screws. The flip side is if your suspension is stiff enough to have no slap on really big jumps and the rig will handle like a stuck pig.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Any time bud I'm up buffing the plastics to the rc restoration I'm doing I have a problem View attachment 132354

That's one strange looking plate of Spaghetti.
With one brown meatball.

 

[STONER RC]

rig will handle like a stuck pig.

OMG...that's great