My Ultimate Slash 4x4 Ultimate build.

[81exige]

MIp or Ed's. Those are the best ones I've found so far. I really like the new version MIP's with the raised collar.

a bit off topic, but what's your opinion on bondhus? I remember reading good user experiences with tools made by them on some other rc forum years back

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

a bit off topic, but what's your opinion on bondhus? I remember reading good user experiences with tools made by them on some other rc forum years back

I've never used them for RC, but I have multiple sets of their Allen drivers for 1/1 cars that are at least 20 years old and I've never had to warranty any of them. I'm pretty hard on tools so that says a lot.

 

[CertifiedMike]

a bit off topic, but what's your opinion on bondhus? I remember reading good user experiences with tools made by them on some other rc forum years back

I've never used them for RC, but I have multiple sets of their Allen drivers for 1/1 cars that are at least 20 years old and I've never had to warranty any of them. I'm pretty hard on tools so that says a lot.

I have used them without issue too.

 

[RudyF6]

I have a set of Bondhus ball hex drivers. Probably 40 years old. Still has a distinct "click" into a screw head. I can place a screw on any of them and it will stay. I just spun the first one ever not long ago by forgetting to heat a loctited screw. It was the .050 - I'll give 'em that, totally my fault. Damaged the screw, not the tool!

 

[81exige]

Ultimate Traxxas Slash 4x4 Ultimate LCG Build​

Total Items: 33 Final Subtotal: $1,580.49

---

I. Core Vehicle & Chassis Protection​

• Base Vehicle: Traxxas Slash Ultimate 4X4 RTR (Green) - 68277-4-GRN
• Front Bulkhead: RCMYou Aluminum Front Bulkhead (Red)
• Rear Bulkhead: RCMYou Aluminum Rear Bulkhead (Red)
• Chassis Cover: Chassis Guard Dust Resist Dirt Cover (LCG)
• Battery Hold-Down: Aluminum 7075 Alloy Retainer
• Adhesive: Loctite 242 (Blue, Threadlocker)
  
  

---

II. Power & Electronics (4S-Ready System)​

• Motor/ESC System: Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 140A Combo 3665SD-3200KV
• Motor Cooling: Integy 36mm Motor Heatsink + Twin 30x30mm Cooling Fan
• Batteries: Zeee 7200mAh 7.4V (2S LiPo, 2 Pack, EC5 Connector)
  
  
  
  
• Charger: gensacearespammers IMARS D300 (Smart Dual Charger)
  
  
  
  
• Connectors: Laisomeke XT60 to EC5 Adapter (4 Pcs)
• Safety: PAWBOSE 2pcs Lipo Battery Bag (Fireproof LiPo Guard)
  
  

---

III. Drivetrain & Suspension (Bulletproof)​

• Driveshafts: MIP 18145 (X-Duty CVD Drive Kit, Front & Rear)
  
  
  
  
• Center Differential: Traxxas 6780 (Complete Kit)
• Suspension Arms: RPM 80702 (x2 Pkgs, Black Front + Rear)
• Front Bumper: RPM 80952 (Front Bumper/Skid, Black)
• Rear Bumper: RPM 80122 (Rear Bumper, Black)
• Diff Fluid: Team Associated ASC5457 (30,000 CST)
• Shock Oil: Traxxas 5033 (40wt / 500 CST)
  
  

---

IV. Steering & Control​

• Steering Servo: HobbyPark 45KG Servo (High Torque, Coreless Motor)
• Steering Bellcranks: Traxxas 3743A (Anodized Blue Aluminum)
  
  
  
  
• Servo Arm: GPM Aluminum Alloy Straight Arm (25T Spline)

---

V. Wheels, Body & Tools​

• Tires (Qty 4): Pro-Line PRO1015610 (Badlands MX SC)
  
  
  
  
• Clear Body: Traxxas 6965R (Heavy Duty Clear)
  
  
  
  
• Body Mounts: Traxxas 6815R (Set, x2 Pkgs)
  
  
  
  
• Body Clips: HobbyPark Universal RC Car Body Clips and Retainer (20pcs)
• Paint (White): Pro-Line PRO643600
• Paint (Black): Pro-Line PRO643601
• Tools: Wera 5118156001 (6-Piece Hex Driver Set)
  
  

here's my opinion:
- 3200kv on 4S is too much, not sure if Hobbywing has a lower KV motor, but Castle has a few 14 series motor+ESC combos in the low to mid 2000kv range so you might want to take a look; sub 3000kv makes more sense if you run on 4s (less heat)
- a single 7200 mah battery is huge; would 2 of them even fit a slash?
- that charger is one of the best choices right now as far as I know, it can take AC power but works best on DC power, so if you want to use it at its fullest then get a power supply to feed it
- not sure what that servo is since a model code wasn't included; if looking at amazon then you may want to look at AGFrc servos, or if you're going balls to the wall, NitroPro
- if you still want to stick to Zeee lipos and EC5 connectors, then either solder EC5 connectors to the ESC yourself or pay someone to have them solder it for you. EC5 from what I read is rated at 120 amps, while XT60 is only rated for max. 60 amps so if you use an EC5 to XT60 adapter, that will be your bottleneck

 

[9x19]

If you're going to do all the upgrades on your list, I wouldn't start with the Ultimate.

Personally, I'd just buy the 4x4 BL2S and replace the slipper with the center diff (TRX6780), up-grade the electronics with a Hobbywing 10BL120 ESC and 3150 KV motor combo, then drive it until something breaks.

I much prefer the Extreme Heavy Duty drive line components in the BL2S over the aluminum components in the Ultimate.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

With Traxxas, Ultimate means the ultimate way to drain your wallet.

 

[Lukedavis]

I would 100 PERCENT get a Tekno instead. You will be amazed with the price, and how good quality they are. We have multiple members on here that have Tekno buggies and truggies, and tekno scts, and they will 100% recommend a Tekno instead of a slash. just my . At the end of they day, its your money and your hobby, so do as you wish. I just feel you'll be disappointed later on when things start to break.

 

[9x19]

Having owned both the Tekno SCT 410-2.0 and Traxxas Slash 4x4, I would recommend either depending on the users wants. The Slash with EHD and a center diff proved to be a tough rig, the Tekno is likely tougher but if neither breaks it's a moot point.

Both are great trucks and both have areas for improvement. The Slash really needs that center diff, while the Tekno needs three sets of steel diff cross pins and gears.

Coming as a kit is the feature the Tekno has over the Slash.

 

[RC NERDZ]

I would 100 PERCENT get a Tekno instead. You will be amazed with the price, and how good quality they are. We have multiple members on here that have Tekno buggies and truggies, and tekno scts, and they will 100% recommend a Tekno instead of a slash. just my . At the end of they day, its your money and your hobby, so do as you wish. I just feel you'll be disappointed later on when things start to break.

Okay thank you for the advice any way that I can update my slash build so that it wont break? I have an updated build ready to post well it is more of a parts list.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

I don't care what parts you throw at that slash, Its gonna break. The only way to assure your RC doesn't break is to put it on a shelf and pet it once in a while.

The tekno.....its gonna break too. Maybe not as often, but thats debateable. Thats what machines do. They work till they dont.

 

[RC NERDZ]

I don't care what parts you throw at that slash, Its gonna break. The only way to assure your RC doesn't break is to put it on a shelf and pet it once in a while.

The tekno.....its gonna break too. Maybe not as often, but thats debateable. Thats what machines do. They work till they dont.

Okay but any other upgrades for the slash that you would recommend?

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

No, just drive time. Maybe a better servo.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

I think a Slash 4x4 Ultimate with ether the hoss driveshafts or the Extreme HD kit is perfectly fine no need to invest in expensive steel driveshaft upgrades. Besides the plastic ones are cheaper if they break and i haven't had one break in years. No RC car is invincible if you beat any car hard enough it'll break.

 

[RC NERDZ]

No, just drive time. Maybe a better servo.

I think a Slash 4x4 Ultimate with ether the hoss driveshafts or the Extreme HD kit is perfectly fine no need to invest in expensive steel driveshaft upgrades. Besides the plastic ones are cheaper if they break and i haven't had one break in years. No RC car is invincible if you beat any car hard enough it'll break.

good thing this investment is little brother proof. And I do not bash that hard just casual.

 

[RC NERDZ]

My Traxxas Slash 4X4 Ultimate Build – 3S Setup for Learning, 4S Ready


Hey everyone,


I wanted to share my current Traxxas Slash 4X4 Ultimate 1/10 Short Course Truck setup and get some feedback. I’m starting off on 3S LiPo to get a feel for the truck before I unleash the full potential of my Castle Creations Mamba X SCT / 1412-3200Kv sensored motor combo.


Here’s what I’ve got in the cart / installed so far:

---

Powertrain / Electronics​

• ESC / Motor Combo: Castle Creations Mamba X SCT with 1412-3200Kv sensored brushless motor (CSE010015512). Sensored for smooth low-speed throttle and precise control. Perfect for 4S, but I’m running on 3S to learn throttle control first.
• Cooling: 30mm twin metal motor cooling fans with heatsink bracket (28000 RPM) — keeps the motor / ESC temps in check during long runs or when I upgrade to 4S.
• Battery: Zeee 3S 5500mAh 11.1V 120C hard case LiPo batteries (EC5 connectors, 2-pack). Excellent C-rating for throttle punch, safe and durable for beginners.
• Charger: gensacearespammers IMARS D300 G-Tech Series dual smart LiPo charger, 16A AC / 300W, DC 700W — handles both batteries simultaneously.
• Adapters: LINSYRC XT60 to EC5 adapters (2 pairs) for flexible battery connections.

---

Drivetrain / Upgrades​

• Center Diff: Traxxas 6780 Complete Center Differential Kit — steel, high durability for high torque.
• Spur Gear: Hot Racing SSLF254D steel 54T, 0.8M/32P for the center diff.
• Drive Shafts: MIP X-Duty CVD front/rear drive kit for Slash, Hoss, Rustler.
• Suspension / Arms: RPM 80702 front + rear black suspension arms (Slash / Stampede 4X4) and GPM aluminum alloy straight servo arm (25T piece).
• Bulkheads: RCMYou aluminum front/rear bulkhead upgrades for Slash LCG 4X4 Ultimate.
• Shock Oil: Traxxas 5033 silicone 40wt, 500 CST, 60cc.
• Diff Oil: 1UP Racing 110150 pure silicone 150K CST (100ml).

---

Steering / Servos​

• Servo: HobbyPark waterproof 25KG high-torque coreless digital servo with metal gears and 180° control — overkill for stock steering, but future-proof for rough bashing.
• Servo Arms / Mounts: GPM adjustable aluminum alloy servo arm and Traxxas 6815R body mount with extensions.

---

Wheels / Tires​

• Tires: Pro-Line Racing SC MTD Street Fighter 6x30 (medium) and Badlands SC MTD Raid 6x30 for Slash 2WD/4WD — 4 tires each.
• Bearings: FastEddy sealed bearing kit, compatible with Slash 4X4 Ultimate.

---

Body / Chassis​

• Body: Traxxas Slash 4X4 Heavy Duty CLR (Green), plus Pro-Line RC body spray paint (white & black) for customization.
• Body Clips: HobbyPark universal 20-pack, 1.2mm black rod.
• Bumpers: RPM 80952 front skid and 80122 rear bumper (black).
• Battery Hold-Down: Aluminum 7075 alloy retainer for 1:8/Slash 4X4 LCG/VXL Ultimate.

---

Tools / Maintenance​

• Hex Tool Set: MIP 9612 hex bit set (1.5, 2.0, 2.5mm) — perfect for assembly and maintenance.
• Threadlocker: Loctite Blue 242 removable medium-strength — for nuts, bolts, and fasteners.

---

Safety​

• LiPo Bags: PAWBOSE 2-pack explosion-proof / fireproof LiPo storage bags for charging and storage.

---

Plan​

I’ll be running 3S first to get used to throttle control and handling — learning on this lower voltage will save me from snapping drive shafts or overheating the ESC/motor. Once I’m comfortable, I plan to switch to 4S LiPos, which my Castle combo, MIP X-Duty CVDs, RPM arms, and aluminum bulkheads are all built for.

---

Questions for the community:

• Any tips on differential tuning for 3S vs 4S?
• Should I run cooling fans from the start on 3S or wait until 4S?
• Any recommendations on shock tuning for mixed terrain bashing with these tires?

---

Total Investment: $1,704.56 — fully RTR-ready and almost completely maxed for performance, durability, and upgradeability.


Looking forward to your feedback!

 

[81exige]

My Traxxas Slash 4X4 Ultimate Build – 3S Setup for Learning, 4S Ready


Hey everyone,


I wanted to share my current Traxxas Slash 4X4 Ultimate 1/10 Short Course Truck setup and get some feedback. I’m starting off on 3S LiPo to get a feel for the truck before I unleash the full potential of my Castle Creations Mamba X SCT / 1412-3200Kv sensored motor combo.


Here’s what I’ve got in the cart / installed so far:

---

Powertrain / Electronics​

• ESC / Motor Combo: Castle Creations Mamba X SCT with 1412-3200Kv sensored brushless motor (CSE010015512). Sensored for smooth low-speed throttle and precise control. Perfect for 4S, but I’m running on 3S to learn throttle control first.
• Cooling: 30mm twin metal motor cooling fans with heatsink bracket (28000 RPM) — keeps the motor / ESC temps in check during long runs or when I upgrade to 4S.
• Battery: Zeee 3S 5500mAh 11.1V 120C hard case LiPo batteries (EC5 connectors, 2-pack). Excellent C-rating for throttle punch, safe and durable for beginners.
• Charger: gensacearespammers IMARS D300 G-Tech Series dual smart LiPo charger, 16A AC / 300W, DC 700W — handles both batteries simultaneously.
• Adapters: LINSYRC XT60 to EC5 adapters (2 pairs) for flexible battery connections.

---

Drivetrain / Upgrades​

• Center Diff: Traxxas 6780 Complete Center Differential Kit — steel, high durability for high torque.
• Spur Gear: Hot Racing SSLF254D steel 54T, 0.8M/32P for the center diff.
• Drive Shafts: MIP X-Duty CVD front/rear drive kit for Slash, Hoss, Rustler.
• Suspension / Arms: RPM 80702 front + rear black suspension arms (Slash / Stampede 4X4) and GPM aluminum alloy straight servo arm (25T piece).
• Bulkheads: RCMYou aluminum front/rear bulkhead upgrades for Slash LCG 4X4 Ultimate.
• Shock Oil: Traxxas 5033 silicone 40wt, 500 CST, 60cc.
• Diff Oil: 1UP Racing 110150 pure silicone 150K CST (100ml).

---

Steering / Servos​

• Servo: HobbyPark waterproof 25KG high-torque coreless digital servo with metal gears and 180° control — overkill for stock steering, but future-proof for rough bashing.
• Servo Arms / Mounts: GPM adjustable aluminum alloy servo arm and Traxxas 6815R body mount with extensions.

---

Wheels / Tires​

• Tires: Pro-Line Racing SC MTD Street Fighter 6x30 (medium) and Badlands SC MTD Raid 6x30 for Slash 2WD/4WD — 4 tires each.
• Bearings: FastEddy sealed bearing kit, compatible with Slash 4X4 Ultimate.

---

Body / Chassis​

• Body: Traxxas Slash 4X4 Heavy Duty CLR (Green), plus Pro-Line RC body spray paint (white & black) for customization.
• Body Clips: HobbyPark universal 20-pack, 1.2mm black rod.
• Bumpers: RPM 80952 front skid and 80122 rear bumper (black).
• Battery Hold-Down: Aluminum 7075 alloy retainer for 1:8/Slash 4X4 LCG/VXL Ultimate.

---

Tools / Maintenance​

• Hex Tool Set: MIP 9612 hex bit set (1.5, 2.0, 2.5mm) — perfect for assembly and maintenance.
• Threadlocker: Loctite Blue 242 removable medium-strength — for nuts, bolts, and fasteners.

---

Safety​

• LiPo Bags: PAWBOSE 2-pack explosion-proof / fireproof LiPo storage bags for charging and storage.

---

Plan​

I’ll be running 3S first to get used to throttle control and handling — learning on this lower voltage will save me from snapping drive shafts or overheating the ESC/motor. Once I’m comfortable, I plan to switch to 4S LiPos, which my Castle combo, MIP X-Duty CVDs, RPM arms, and aluminum bulkheads are all built for.

---

Questions for the community:

• Any tips on differential tuning for 3S vs 4S?
• Should I run cooling fans from the start on 3S or wait until 4S?
• Any recommendations on shock tuning for mixed terrain bashing with these tires?

---

Total Investment: $1,704.56 — fully RTR-ready and almost completely maxed for performance, durability, and upgradeability.


Looking forward to your feedback!

- again, with that battery the XT60 to EC5 adapter will be the bottleneck - either solder EC5 connectors to the ESC yourself or have someone do it for you
- I doubt alum bulkheads are necessary at all, feels like more weight and more money for little gains in durability
- a cooler motor is a happy motor - install one right off the bat

or, depending where you live (I assume the US?) I'd do what @Littlemotor here said and get a Tekno SCT410 (either an older .3 or a new in package 2.0); it might be a race vehicle but virtually all of them are built tough, and as far as I know the SCT410 is based on Tekno's 8th scale stuff so their durability is pretty much all proven (don't be confused with the SCT410SL which is based on their 10th scale platform, so probably not the best choice for bashing)

 

[RC NERDZ]

- again, with that battery the XT60 to EC5 adapter will be the bottleneck - either solder EC5 connectors to the ESC yourself or have someone do it for you
- I doubt alum bulkheads are necessary at all, feels like more weight and more money for little gains in durability
- a cooler motor is a happy motor - install one right off the bat

or, depending where you live (I assume the US?) I'd do what @Littlemotor here said and get a Tekno SCT410 (either an older .3 or a new in package 2.0); it might be a race vehicle but virtually all of them are built tough, and as far as I know the SCT410 is based on Tekno's 8th scale stuff so their durability is pretty much all proven (don't be confused with the SCT410SL which is based on their 10th scale platform, so probably not the best choice for bashing)

I honestly am so far into this project at this point I want to just buy it i have been working my mom for this she says buy budget i say i am not sharing a budget one then the response is you will i say but this is little brother proof. Part of me wants to get this to prove my mom wrong and because it looks and will drive amazing. I have updated the build extensively and will be posting the updated one soon. DO NOT HATE ON THE PRICE PLEASE.

 

[RC NERDZ]

THE GREAT RC SHOPPING CART APOCALYPSE​

aka
How I Accidentally Built a Miniature Financial Black Hole


Welcome, fellow RC addicts, casual lurkers, and people who clicked this thinking it was about full-size cars and are now too confused to leave.


Today we analyze something truly majestic:


39 items
$2,229.54
and a shopping cart that looks like NASA tried to build a Mars rover out of Traxxas parts and late-night impulsive decisions.

---

Center Diff – Traxxas 6780​

Stops the Slash from doing full-throttle interpretive drifting.
Now the truck actually goes forward instead of reenacting “Ice Age: The Slippening.”


Ironically, this little gear system has more stability than I do when someone says

“Hey, maybe you don’t need another upgrade.”

---

Hot Racing Motor Mount​

This part holds the motor straighter than I hold eye contact when the bank asks what all these charges are.

---

MIP X-Duty Driveshafts​

Indestructible metal tubes that will survive:

• concrete impacts
• flips
• crashes
• the heat death of the universe

Meanwhile I pull a screw out slightly sideways and the entire front end of my truck explodes like a LEGO spaceship.

---

Castle Mamba X ESC​

This thing turns your Slash into a guided missile with wheels.


Castle engineers:
“We designed a balanced power delivery system.”


Me:
launches truck into low orbit because I forgot the throttle trigger exists between 0% and 100%.

---

LiPo Batteries​

Electrical grenades of happiness.


Everyone else:
“Be careful with LiPos, they’re dangerous.”


Me:
tapes them into a plastic toy and sends it 60mph toward a curb

---

Paint Supplies​

The plan:
Create a complex geometric masterpiece that would make professional RC painters cry tears of awe.


The reality:
Halfway through masking triangles I achieved:

• hand cramps
• tape stuck to my shirt
• red overspray in my hair
• and a pattern that looks like a Minecraft creeper after a blender accident

10/10 still sending it.

---

Body Clips​

RC’s version of socks.


You lose them constantly, you find them everywhere, and somehow they multiply in pockets, toolboxes, and the washing machine.

---

SELF-ROAST BREAK​

Let’s not pretend this cart happened because of smart planning.


This wasn’t research.
This wasn’t strategy.
This was:


Step 1: Watch one build video
Step 2: Brain: YES.
Step 3: Wallet: NO.
Step 4: Amazon: “Recommended items”
Step 5: Me: ADDS ALL


My Slash now has:

• aerospace-grade materials
• a power system capable of war crimes
• suspension tuned like a trophy truck

…being driven by someone who still occasionally forgets which way is left.

---

TOOLS SECTION​

Because apparently the correct number of hex drivers to own is:


ALL OF THEM.


MIP bits so precise they could do surgery.
Which is hilarious considering I once stripped a screw with a butter knife and called it “problem solving.”

---

TIRES​

Street tires for asphalt domination
Off-road tires for dirt destruction


Do I actually switch them depending on terrain?


No.


I just run whatever’s already on and then complain about traction like it’s the truck’s fault.

---

THE BUILD SUMMARY​

This cart created:

• a Slash that handles like a caffeinated cheetah
• jumps like it’s auditioning for Fast & Furious 27
• accelerates like it owes the IRS money

And despite all that effort, upgrades, money, and engineering…


…I will still somehow manage to crash it into the only tree in a field the size of Texas.

---

CONCLUSION​

Is this cart logical?


No.


Financially responsible?


Absolutely not.


Does it create an RC so ridiculous it terrifies everyone within a 30-foot radius?


YES.


And honestly?


That’s the entire point.

 

[RC NERDZ]

FYI:​

After spending $2,229.54 on upgrades, precision parts, aerospace metals, and a center diff that could probably power a small blender…
the very first thing that broke was:


a $0.12 body clip.


So yes—my Slash is now scientifically confirmed to be:

99% indestructible,
1% “held together by hopes, dreams, and tiny metal paperclips.”