JCsRCcar
RCTalk Champion
Starting this thread to document some of the modifications I have done to my Losi LMT so that those that might acquire one and start looking for ideas might learn from this thread. Here are a few of the modifications that I feel are necessary and should be done right away to thwart off the inevidable shortcomings of this chassis design. They are as follows:
#1, strengthen the plastic axles. Many people just roll with it and replace them with expensive metal axles as they break and that is a good option but if you like money in the bank and are somewhat handy then I suggest you summon the MacGyver in you and try modifying the stock axles instead. There are also a few companies that offer plastic braces but I think I have found a better way. More to come!
#2, Install shock limiting straps. If you don't do this then after a few good stunts or jumps it’s likely your shocks wont be able to keep the heavy axles and wheels in check and they will over extend and break the shocks. This is a realtively simple and easy modification. You can use 100 mm to be on the safe side or 105 mm with some risk to get the maximum travel from the suspension. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9KC2HR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#3 Add a front bumper to protect the vulnerable front end. If you don't do this then I guarantee you will smash the front grill and lights in no time. The compromise with the bumper is that it does limit its ability to climb walls and do back flips. There are many Chinese copies of a stainless steel bumper and bars such as this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/LuDa-Monster-Vehicle-Assembly-Modification/dp/B0967S223F but the downside to this design is the weight of that stainless steel. Its too heavy and upsets the balance of the car. I got around this by purchasing 1/8” aluminum plate and 1/4” round bar stock and making my own based off this stainless steel version. The aluminum cuts down the weight tremendously and still offers the same protection without the weight penalty.
#4, Upgrade the servo saver. The stock servo saver allows too much slop, and in my experience it wont last long before the plastic wears out and leves you with a sloppy handling truck. Solution is the Treal metal servo saver. This servo saver is metal and still offers protection from impacts to those huge monster truck wheels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091YHN4WW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
#5 Upgrade the stock Spectrum servo. The stock servo is like all RTR servos, just adequate at best. My choice is, and will always be, what I feel are the best servos for the money or at any cost on the market, and those are all made by ProModeler right here in the good old USA. The Brushless line of servos are the ones to get. Nothing can touch the qaulity and performance these have to offer and I mean nothing. https://www.promodeler.com/standard I chose the DS845BLHV and I have almost one of every servo this company offers in all our cars now (me and my son) and they are just awesome servos. If you’re not running an ESC with a robust BEC then an aftermarket BEC like this one will not disappoint https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ITEL42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
#6 Upgrade the stock C-hubs. The stock plastic ones are ok but they will eventually break, especially if the temperature outside is cold. Again Treal makes a real nice aluminum one that bolts right up to the stock axles and makes this part bulletproof. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RXZM36D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#7 Upgrade the stock Spectrum Esc and 3200 KV motor. This motor ESC combo actually works well and TBH doesn't need to be upgraded but I’m spoiled by all my sensored ESC and motor combos, so I like the extra control a sensored motor affords you. For this I recommend either a Castle with 3200 KV and Mamba ESC or the Hobbywing Xerun XR8 with with sensored 3200 KV motor. Dont waste your time with the Castle Copperhead ESC because it’s BEC is not up to a high enough standard in my opinion. I usually go with Castle but I chose the Hobbywing this time just because I wanted to try something different.
More to come with lots of pictures coming.
#1, Fill the empty voids inside the stock plastic axle housings with epoxy. I suppose you could use any decently hard epoxy but I had some leftover floor Rustoleum floor epoxy so I used that. You’ll have to do some careful measuring so that you fill in all the week areas and voids, but not so much that it gets in the way of the axle spinning inside. I think these pictures to all of the explaining. The benefit to this is added weight down low to lower center of gravity, and massively increased strength. It’s inexpensive and it makes the stock axles nearly bulletproof.
#1, strengthen the plastic axles. Many people just roll with it and replace them with expensive metal axles as they break and that is a good option but if you like money in the bank and are somewhat handy then I suggest you summon the MacGyver in you and try modifying the stock axles instead. There are also a few companies that offer plastic braces but I think I have found a better way. More to come!
#2, Install shock limiting straps. If you don't do this then after a few good stunts or jumps it’s likely your shocks wont be able to keep the heavy axles and wheels in check and they will over extend and break the shocks. This is a realtively simple and easy modification. You can use 100 mm to be on the safe side or 105 mm with some risk to get the maximum travel from the suspension. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9KC2HR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#3 Add a front bumper to protect the vulnerable front end. If you don't do this then I guarantee you will smash the front grill and lights in no time. The compromise with the bumper is that it does limit its ability to climb walls and do back flips. There are many Chinese copies of a stainless steel bumper and bars such as this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/LuDa-Monster-Vehicle-Assembly-Modification/dp/B0967S223F but the downside to this design is the weight of that stainless steel. Its too heavy and upsets the balance of the car. I got around this by purchasing 1/8” aluminum plate and 1/4” round bar stock and making my own based off this stainless steel version. The aluminum cuts down the weight tremendously and still offers the same protection without the weight penalty.
#4, Upgrade the servo saver. The stock servo saver allows too much slop, and in my experience it wont last long before the plastic wears out and leves you with a sloppy handling truck. Solution is the Treal metal servo saver. This servo saver is metal and still offers protection from impacts to those huge monster truck wheels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091YHN4WW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
#5 Upgrade the stock Spectrum servo. The stock servo is like all RTR servos, just adequate at best. My choice is, and will always be, what I feel are the best servos for the money or at any cost on the market, and those are all made by ProModeler right here in the good old USA. The Brushless line of servos are the ones to get. Nothing can touch the qaulity and performance these have to offer and I mean nothing. https://www.promodeler.com/standard I chose the DS845BLHV and I have almost one of every servo this company offers in all our cars now (me and my son) and they are just awesome servos. If you’re not running an ESC with a robust BEC then an aftermarket BEC like this one will not disappoint https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ITEL42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
#6 Upgrade the stock C-hubs. The stock plastic ones are ok but they will eventually break, especially if the temperature outside is cold. Again Treal makes a real nice aluminum one that bolts right up to the stock axles and makes this part bulletproof. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RXZM36D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#7 Upgrade the stock Spectrum Esc and 3200 KV motor. This motor ESC combo actually works well and TBH doesn't need to be upgraded but I’m spoiled by all my sensored ESC and motor combos, so I like the extra control a sensored motor affords you. For this I recommend either a Castle with 3200 KV and Mamba ESC or the Hobbywing Xerun XR8 with with sensored 3200 KV motor. Dont waste your time with the Castle Copperhead ESC because it’s BEC is not up to a high enough standard in my opinion. I usually go with Castle but I chose the Hobbywing this time just because I wanted to try something different.
More to come with lots of pictures coming.
#1, Fill the empty voids inside the stock plastic axle housings with epoxy. I suppose you could use any decently hard epoxy but I had some leftover floor Rustoleum floor epoxy so I used that. You’ll have to do some careful measuring so that you fill in all the week areas and voids, but not so much that it gets in the way of the axle spinning inside. I think these pictures to all of the explaining. The benefit to this is added weight down low to lower center of gravity, and massively increased strength. It’s inexpensive and it makes the stock axles nearly bulletproof.
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