My daughters first rc car!

[srusinek]

I've been wanting to get my daughter into the hobby but not at the 400.00 price tag that it usually costs. She enjoys my duratrax evader and my associated tc4 but I knew down the road, she would lose interest in electrics due to charging batteries and so on. Not trying to bash the electric guys but just stating my opinion of my daughter. So I came across this and I got it at a local auction for a very good price. It came with the gear that's in the pics. I already have a roto start from my savage and a 2.4 radio from my DM1 spec that I'm going to use. I think I have a savage .25 but it's not what's on HPI website and I'd like to know what I've come across please. Here's some early observations of what I've seen: The motor has very good compression, the engine does not have a number on it but does say HPI in big letters, it's missing a few screws and does have a gouge in the front skidplate, the spur gear is metal along with the clutchbell but the slipper seems to be missing some parts, the tranny gears are metal as is in my XL and the body is pretty mint. This is all I can think of at the moment and I really appreciate any help that comes my way. Steve

 

[srusinek]

Here are the pictures of her car.

 

[Nitro4910]

Looks like a good runner too me, hope she likes it.

 

[srusinek]

Does anyone have an idea of what I've got here? I do have a couple more questions though. Do all hpi engines equipped with the roto start backplate spin the same direction? I want to get a manual for the truck from hpi, would any regular savage manuals work? Again thanks in advance, Steve.

 

[ckeast420]

Yea all roto starts work the same way

and you have a savage 25

 

[srusinek]

Thank you so much for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure of what I had before I start tearing it down. Now I'll get the manual from hpi and go from there. I think for this season I'm going to leave the roto start on and next season I'll put the pull start on. I know the diffs are a weak point in this version so if they're shimmed correctly I should be ok?

 

[Greywolf74]

I agree it does look like a Savy .25

 

[sur3fir3]

Thank you so much for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure of what I had before I start tearing it down. Now I'll get the manual from hpi and go from there. I think for this season I'm going to leave the roto start on and next season I'll put the pull start on. I know the diffs are a weak point in this version so if they're shimmed correctly I should be ok?

My first real nitro was a savage .25 years ago. I ran it into the ground really, but always stayed with that .25 power plant. Using the .25 I never had excessive diff issues. But if you plan on upgrading that engine, I would definitely look into upgrading the drivetrain. This is just my personal experience with it. I am by no means an expert.

 

[srusinek]

Thanks for your experience on the savage .25. I was looking at it and was comparing it to my xl in terms of length and such. Has the savage over the years excluding the xl have gotten shorter in terms of length? I know her tires are road rage but this seem to add an inch or so to its length and it looks newer than my fiends 2011 savage x.

 

[Riz23]

Hope your daughter enjoys her new ride. I have 4 daughters and only 1 of them took an interest in RC. I started off getting her an electric Tamiya truck kit that we built together. Now she has her own T-Maxx that we run together from time to time. She's getting older now so she is losing interest a little (in lieu of friends and boy bands???). But I will always treasure the time and memories I had sharing my hobby with daddy's little girl!

 

[tmaxx 3.3 boss]

Wish I could find one for that deal

 

[srusinek]

Right now the interest level is around a 6 out of a 10. If I get her a pink body and get her involved in the maintenance, then I'm sure she'll get more interested. I'm goint to start slow and not overwhelm her. The first thing is to tear it down and get a general idea of what I'm looking at. I'm in no hurry to it going with excitement and then ruin something in the process. This will teach her to look at things instead of rushing into them.

 

[srusinek]

In a pickle

Due to other expenses and time me and the daughter just started to really look at her savage and start the lists of repairs and parts needed. I told her she could have my tmaxx rims and tires since they're brand new. We wanted to see how they would look on her truck so we started to take off the lugnuts. The one side is fine but the other two are like super glued because I removed one and the threaded axle shaft broke as well. So the other wheel nut is starting to strip and I'm going to bring home an 8 mm 12 point socket. If I can't remove the lugnut, what options do I have? The only thing I can think of is to destroy the wheel and lose the upright and axle shaft. As always thanks in advance and I'll post updates as we go further along in the restoration but if the motor is toast, then we might not rebuild it.

 

[JoeMAXX]

The good news is the Savage parts list really has not changed much over the years.

Here is a link to the Savage 21 which is what I really think you have if it is that old. I do remember when they first came out and racing/bashing against them with my TMaxx 4910 about 8 to 9 years ago. They used to blow me away on the long straights then I would catch up to them in the corners and jumps.

The next gen was the Savage 4.6

http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/instruct-savage21.htm

This contains a full list of HPI Racings line up older and newer

http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/

Tower Hobbies still has parts for them and you will need to go thru the parts list to figure out what you need.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=savage+21&search=Go

 

[srusinek]

I seen that a lot of the parts do carry over but the main sticking point will be the condition of the engine. If the engine is toast then we will probably not rebuild the truck. So we will start with the pull start and go from there. Is there any other way to get the wheel off of the truck if the wheel nut is stripped?

 

[Childresshunt]

If it were me and the wheel nut was stripped i would exaust everything i could b4 destroying stuff other than the wheel. I would deff go guy lowes or a hardware store maybe a automotive shop and see if they have any sockets for stripped bolts they are made to grab rounded off bolts with whats pretty much a knife edge For starters i would take something like a drimel and try cutting the rim down to wear i could get a pair of vise grips on the wheel nut and maybe another pair of channel locks on the rest of the rim to hold it still. without seeing what the rim looks like and how deep the inset is i can't really say any other way than that.

the link will show you what they look like but I'm not sure if they make them small enough

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=stripped+bolt+removal+tool&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1600&bih=719&tbm=isch&tbnid=dty_k8mOardrdM:&imgrefurl=http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/626404-stripped-10mm-cv-joint-bolt-question.html&docid=ogkbwFMUSfaiKM&imgurl=http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads19/DSC030771314300126.jpg&w=800&h=600&ei=F2DsUIKoOsvo2gXT0oGABw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=200&sig=116315541656219066347&page=2&tbnh=142&tbnw=190&start=34&ndsp=44&ved=1t:429,r:61,s:0,i:279&tx=95&ty=107

 

[srusinek]

We used to use those in the quick lube business for stripped out drain plugs and man did they save your a$$ when you needed it to. I doubt they make one that's 8mm or 5/16 which is the size of the wheel nut. I'm bringing home a twelve point 8mm socket and ratchet to hooefully remove the the wheel nut and if I can't, it looks like I'm going to have to destroy the wheel and tire which are shot because the previous owner glued the tires on the rims and never removed the chrome in the bead. If I can get away with just losing the threaded axle shaft which might snap anyways, I'd be happy. All I would have to do is remove enough of the wheel so I can disconnect the upright from the truck and then dremel off the threaded axle shaft.

 

[Childresshunt]

Theres a set on amazon for 20 bucks so they do make them if you wanna try tht b4 anything else but sounds like u got a pretty good idea of what your gonna do And a 12 point 8 isnt gonna do it unless it is very lightly stripped in which you wouldnt have this problem in the first place you would need to use a 12 point 7 and pretty much hammer it on to go that road I've dont this many times at my dads automotive shop but it depends how bad its stripped if it will go or not

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=rounded+bolt+remover&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7292727847&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=20075513432106460134&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_6z99r79xj7_b

---------- Post added at 2:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:30 PM ----------

the second irwin set is the one with the 8mm 5/16

 

[Nitro4910]

Sears makes a small stipped fastener remover set for like $16, Model# 52168 .
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952168000P

 

[Childresshunt]

Better price and better quality on nitro 4910's link and also has smaller sizes which is even better to have on hand with nitros