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Mugen MBX5 Prospec Thread :)

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The fuel bulb looks like the one off the mgt. Rolex your kits from the time of white wing and wheels. Anyone know when they made the change from white to yellow?
 
Wrapping the fuel line around the engine is pretty common. The fuel bulb did catch my eye though. I've never seen one of those on a buggy.

Rolex888, looks real good. I thought the kit came with crimefighters??
 
Something is telling me he didn't like the yellow, and bought white. I'll bet the yellow dish wheels have crimefighters on them, and they are in a box with a yellow wing somewhere.
 
They made the change with the prospec. The stand. MBX5 still has white wing/rims.
 
You guys are absolutely right. I wasn't too crazy about the yellow dish wheels and the yellow wing so I ditched them and bought the white wheels and white wing instead.

The fuel bulb is off the MGT and it's the best add-on upgrade that I use on all my cars. No more finger priming on the exhaust hole. Just a few squeezes of the primer bulb and it gets all the fuel I need to the engine for a fast easy start on the starterbox on the first time, every time. :) I love it. No leaking, no mess, no fuel on the finger.

And yes, my Prospec kit came with the CrimeFighters but I like the Pro-line Knuckle tires and the others are used as my spare.
 
PM me if you'd like to sell the Crime Fighter tires and the yellow dishes.

The fuel bulb thing is a good idea. Also looks like it holds a lot of fuel *wink*.
 
ImBroken said:
Mike, were you being sarcastic, cause it doesn't look like he has enough.. I could be way off, but I thought you wanted 8-10" of fuel line on the supply.

Hey Rolex, nice ride man... Where could I find one of those fuel bulbs that your using? Do they work good? No more finger over the pipe ?
Click to expand...
unfortunately no I'm not
over here for any major event we gat fuel tested and that would out us way over
in the worlds your guys top driver (who i might add TQD), got disqualified for that exact setup minus the primer bulb for too much fuel capacity, and all the rest of the us drivers quickly cut there fuel tubing down by alot to make sure they werent next on the chop block, i just couldnt get away with that sort of lenght of tubing over here, id be having to buy my next mugen :(
 
mugen sponsored? damn, that's sweet. I remember when Ashton won the NATs over here there was a big squable started by the kyosho guys who insisted Justin's fuel tank held more fuel when it was warm or something. They sure do take that fuel capacity thing seriously. I guess in a 60 min main, he who fuels up the most looses.
 
looked like you were adjusting the needles and taking the temps. Were you trying to get it to accellerate faster? I used to have the same problem. The LSN is too lean and it won't accelerate. It's caused by having your idle gap too wide. I took some advice from a friend and started setting my idle gap at 1mm (really small). It made a world of difference last summer.
 
looked to me lie it was still very rich yet. start leaning out your lsn, keep the hsn rich for a few more tanks yet.
 
i was trying to get the temps up some lol too cold. gettign too cold out nemore i wanna finish breakin and run this thing for real


well look what came in today..... 24 tires allt he tread is like new for 100 plus the stock proline tires are in there too

tires002.webp
 
hard to tell off the video but i would tend to agree with corrado it does sound and look rich still, what temps is it getting to? have you given it any form of revs yet, doesn't sound like you were giving it much at all on the vid, how many tanks has it had through it, oh duh read the post mike 6 tanks right! you should be able to start giving it a little more on your next few tanks but still not full tit
 
ok the beginign is me just driving around to warm it up and then the end is when its finaly up to running temp

its on its 8th tank and a tad leaner like 1/8 on the hsn
the clutch is slipping a lot so I'm gonna have to drop the spring rate to 1.0 instead of 1.1 and see how that goes to get some more power and speed out of it. tuning it could help too lol

http://home.comcast.net/~compunut57/mugen_breakin_1.wmv

please right click and save as so comcast doesn't yell at me for using lots of bandwith
 
All I know about RB WS7 engines is what I've read on the RB boards. The 1.1 springs ring a bell and I know a lot of guys lighten the ends of their clutch shoes by either drilling holes in the ends or by slicing away pieces of the shoes. I think the idea is that lighter shoes and tigher springs will cause the clutch to engauge at higher RPMs.

Maybe someone with a WS72 can help. I've got my Top P5 and the clutch has been a non-issue (well except when a shoe broke).
 
i did dirll the hole and such, it engages great but once i get to the higher rpm they just dont wanna stick nemore and start sliding and overheating the bell
 
use aluminum shoes. they are the only shoes I've found for a std clutch that holds up to race motors. i burn through carbon shoes in well under a gallon of running on either my vspec or my nova .28. i had the nova turn a bell and bearing blue once it cooked the clutch so bad. I'm done with non-metallic shoes all together.


question though, do you have the small washers between the FW and your shoes. they prevent binding and allow the shoes to swing freely. also, you MUST clean out your clutch after the first 5 minutes of running with new clutch bearings. if not, the excess grease from the bearings, gets flung into the bell. it does its greasy thing and reduces friction and tada! slipping clutch. i suspect this is your problem seeing as how its a new buggy and all. take the clutch bell off and clean it out with alcohol, and clean off the shoes as well.
 
anyone see the new rear chassis brace by kingheadz for the x-5? two mounting holes on the chassis! you'll have to drill for the extra one but imo its worth it. my only complaint so far is that the brace comes loose and eventually lengthens the hole during long mains. looks like there is finally a fix for that.

also- i was informed tonight that the crono 7 port 'standard' is the same as the jp fx b5n. if this is true (and it came from what i feel is a very reliable source) then the crono can be had for about half the price!
 
jim hottinger has also had a P7 made up for the US market, have a look at that too before deciding on the crono
 

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