MTX-4 build (Dial-up BEWARE!)

[Diver6127]

Well, sl0eg1n and I broke down and got ourselves each a Mugen MTX-4. Are we happy with it? Well ... hard to say. Haven't raced it hard yet but here's what I think of the build ...

Hits

• Lower CG
• More adjustable design
• simple build
• redesigned tank
• Redesigned battery pack receptacle

Misses

• Flimsy rear shock tower
• requires offset wheels
• Rear camber link cannot be adjusted with body still on
• No servo horns included
• Lack of stronger braces (all soft plastic)
• Pipe hanger fell short. Had to bend to reach the pipe. Also in close proximity of midpulley. Hard enough hit and it will contact the pulley. Even in an unbent configuration.

What I have installed

• Spektrum DSM receiver and capacitor
• KO Propo 2363 (steering)
• Futaba 3010 (throttle/brake ... but not for long. All I had left in the pit box)
• Mugen X12 3port
• Maxpower 2615E conical pipe & header
• 1100 Matched 2/3 battery pack

This was an easy build. Just didn't like jumping from bag to bag for parts. The directions were mostly designed for most of us men ... follow the pics If you take more than 10 hours total to build the car up to a roller configuration, you are really working at a snail's pace. That's how easy it is. Just turn on the TV and start building. You'll be done in no time.

As I was building the kit, I couldn't help but notice how similar it was to the serpent 710. The laydown steering servo design, adjustable front and rear belt tensioner, steering ackerman, hingepin layout ... all reminiscent of the 710. The more I look at it, the more it will remind me.

The plastic parts were a disappointment. Yes, plastic will flex and bend. This is good for the arms so it won't break right away but for structural bracing to be flimsy as well? It allows a lot of torsional flex. The chassis is pretty much the standard 3mm thickness but seems to be more flexible than the ordinary.

I am sure more things will come to mind but here are the pics of my build. I did skip a few pics in he process but that's because I got too involved to remember to take them. Maybe next time ...

When outdoor nitro touring comes around, there will be even more to write about. For now, I can only really comment on the build, not on the car in a race situation.

I also forgot to mention that in the absence of the servo arms, I went to my LHS and picked up the Racer's edge aluminum servo arms. These arms have very small holes and will not fit the screws provided in the kit for the linkage screw mounts. I had to drill and retap them in order to be used. I utilized a nylon locknut on the opposite side of the screw to keep it from backing out AND allowing me to loosen it enough not to have the collars bind but still keep the screws from vibrating loose. For now they will stay annodized. When I get the urge, they will be sandblasted and left in raw aluminum . I don't like annodizing ... lol. Makes the car look like a color wheel after a while. Keeping it simple, just as I do with all my cars.

Front oneway

Rear Gear differential

Front bulks and midpulley mounted on chassis

Rear assembly, radio brace and sidepulley mounted

Completed unit

 

[mnm]

that thing looks great, can't wait to get one for my self, thanks for the buildup review, and can't wait to read the review on how it does perform..


i have read it requires Offset wheels, are the foams you have 0. Offset?

 

[Diver6127]

As stated by mugen racing (sl0eg1n called them in Cali) a 1mm or 2 degree offset is required to run the rears. 1mm is preferred, according to them. O offset wil still clear BARELY while the car is running in a straight line. During a turning situation, the foam and rim do bend slightly. This will cause rubbing and problems. If you put spacers on the hub, i will cause the rears to wobble since the wheel will not be fully seated on the hex.

Fast tires, Jaco and GQ are popular tires that have offsets available. Jaco and Fast tires tend to be the more expensive. GQ is cheaper BUT also have good wear rates and their shore ratings are pretty close to what is stated on the box (+or- one degree of hardness rating).

The kit comes with tires that are 1mm offset.

 

[Bouzouki]

The 2mm offset is nothing and you shouldn't even have to worry about it, meaning its no big deal.

Even the old MTX-3 used 2mm offset tires, thus the reason 2mm offset tires arn't hard to find.

Fast tires are very easy to find and on this subject, after doing some comparisons with Fast, Ellegi, Enneti, and Jaco, Fast tires came out on top for me.

As far as not being to adjust chamber with the body on, wtf?

Unless your "eyeballing" your adjustments, you would need to take the body off for setting your car up on blocks.

Servo horns? A: Those come with servos, for me they did at least. B: Different brands use different horns as far as teeth go.

 

[vbgagnon]

I'm feeling a little tension Bouzouki...

 

[nitro_freak1]

nice build/write up man. seems to me it has alot of weak section's. better be glad u have a serpent dont even respond to Bouzouki.. seems to be "BAITING" you in once again......

 

[RatzoRC]

I saw your original post Bousouki. Baiting will not be tolerated.
There is a rule about baiting another member.
[rules]you should read them again[/rules]

There has been bad blood between you guy's in the past.
Lets put it to rest already.

 

[mnm]

so a serpent 710 would be a better choice than a Mugen MTX4 quality wise?

 

[nitro_freak1]

well i havent see the mtx 4 run.. but from what i have seen of the serpents there awsome. they will take a beatin. just ask diver about the OVAL lol. seems (from pictures) that the serpent is a all around better on road. thats just my opinion tho.

 

[Bouzouki]

I saw your original post Bousouki. Baiting will not be tolerated.
There is a rule about baiting another member.
[rules]you should read them again[/rules]

There has been bad blood between you guy's in the past.
Lets put it to rest already.

I never intending to "bait" him (which is probably why I edited my post shortly after I submited it)

I don't remember what my original post was, if you could PM it to me and point out where I tried to stir up somthing. I am only trying to have a discusion here...

Bad blood? I'm only trying to talk about one thing, the MTX-4.

I'm feeling a little tension Bouzouki...

nice build/write up man. seems to me it has alot of weak section's. better be glad u have a serpent dont even respond to Bouzouki.. seems to be "BAITING" you in once again......

Yes, because stating my opinion on the MTX-4 in the MTX-4 Review/Build-up thread is not allowed.

 

[RatzoRC]

Bouzouki

I can’t be held responsible for your bad memory.
Be more careful about how you post, and you wont have to remember what you posted.
Obviously you said something to raise a few eyebrows, because I’m not the only one to notice.

Again. Lets drop it and move on.

 

[Diver6127]

The 2mm offset is nothing and you shouldn't even have to worry about it, meaning its no big deal.

No, it isn't a big deal but running 2 different cars and having to buy 2 different sets? Then it becomes a big deal, for me at least since I do purchase foams in big orders. Problem has been solved and will be able to use 0 degree offset without sticking in spacers and having tire wobble.

Even the old MTX-3 used 2mm offset tires, thus the reason 2mm offset tires arn't hard to find.

Yes it did, and would've been a stumbling block back then if I bought it as well.

Fast tires are very easy to find and on this subject, after doing some comparisons with Fast, Ellegi, Enneti, and Jaco, Fast tires came out on top for me.

Tires are a personal preferrence and differnet brands hold up differently from track to track. It's all based on the grain of the track and foam composition.

As far as not being to adjust chamber with the body on, wtf?

Unless your "eyeballing" your adjustments, you would need to take the body off for setting your car up on blocks.

Ah grasshopper, you can setup on blocks till the cows come home but sometimes (alot of times) what you put in initially can be a bit off. If you need a hair bit more or less, it's easy to just crank the pillow ball in or out just a bit to get what you need while testing and tuning at the track. If you have a pitman with you, it's easy for you to stay on the stand and bark down what's needed. If the pitman is watching and even better knows your driving style, he can call you in and do some adjustments. When you get back to the pits, then you stick it up on the blocks an make the notes. Not all adjustments will be equal from side to side and can't be preset for optimum performance.

Servo horns? A: Those come with servos, for me they did at least. B: Different brands use different horns as far as teeth go.

Yes they do and if you notice when you get the new servos, there are a variety of combinations but all the kits I have assembled have incorporated the horns of varying teeth to fit specified servos. Even Associated had them included in the kit (excellent manual and build as well). The servo horns that acompany the servos aren't up to my standards. That's why I went with aluminum for little flex.

Stating your opinion is fine in a review but it can't really be taken much to heart unless you have hands on experience with the particular item at hand. In this case it's a bit necessary since the MTX-3 and 4 are of same species but Darwin sure had his hands in this because many things are different. It evolved. I had the prosepec version of the MTX-3 side by side with the MTX-4 at the LHS today and saw the changes. This is where the hands-on part will come in to play. This was my own experience with this build. It was funny how sl0eg1n and I did the same build and had almost the same feelings towards it.

I will welcome any comments on this particular car from those that have built it. It would be nice to see what previous mugen owners praise and frown upon and also what other "brand loyal" (HPI, Kyosho and Serpent) think of it as well. It would be an interesting conversation at best, especially if all the cars were present. I think that's what may happen at the LHS I frequent since the majority of the patrons race their cars.

so a serpent 710 would be a better choice than a Mugen MTX4 quality wise?

Price wise it is cheaper. The price hasn't fluctuated much since it's unveiling. Avg price is from $350-$380 here in NYC. Parts wise, they are of excellent quality. For the Serpent 710, it is the only car (stock configuration) where I had to tap many of the parts because they are so rigid. Almost to the point of carbon parts. I did it on the mugen because I did on the serpent BUT found that it wasn't really necessary since the plastic was ready to receive the hardware being used.

If anyone has anymore questions about this particular car, I will be more than glad to answer. Just remember that it hasn't been on a track YET but will if there is a break in the weather and the temps come up. I highly doubt it will get warm anytime soon so it looks like April will be the performance write up unless I go someplace warm and happen to remember to bring the car. The asphalt here is very cold and grip is nonexhistant.

 

[Bouzouki]

Thank you for the comments, nice review.

This will give me some things to think about.

 

[c496]

that is a real nice car, good work.

 

[Buggyracer28]

That thing looks SICKKKK! I can't wait to see some action pics! (hopefully video too )

 

[Diver6127]

Well, here she is fully clothed. It's not my usual colors. I didn't realize that if I back the flourescent yellow with silver, it turns puke green! LOL, well I now have a practice body ...

 

[snowboardgeek1]

now thats what i call a real race car. Mugen baby!

 

[Loser]

WOW!
that just makes me want to go out and buy one right now...sadly my wallet doesn't agree :'( lol

sick car man hopefully we will get some action pics

 

[Got Nitro?]

Damn diver that's a nice ride,just don't run into a curb,and if you haven't already made a video,MAKE ONE!

 

[Diver6127]

Nah, that won't happen. I only drive these cars on a track. I just have to watch out for the boards!

And a video? you can count on one when there's a break in the weather and it gets warm.

WOW!
that just makes me want to go out and buy one right now...sadly my wallet doesn't agree :'( lol

sick car man hopefully we will get some action pics

Well, it does get expensive. By far, this is the most expensive touring sedan kit (just the kit) that I have ever put together. I saved some money since I already had an engine and pipe to put on as well as a radio.

My Serpent 710 was $350. This Mugen was $450. Add probably another $400 for engine and pipe. Servos depends on your preference. I put in the KO Propo 2363 ($130) and Airtronics 9347z for throttle/brake ($79). The radio is up to you. I run DSM, so another module was $65 and accompanying capacitor was $6.

If you put this car together from scratch and get a new radio system, plan on at spending an average of $1100. Radio choice will give you a different total as well as choosing to use the stock servos that come with the radio or ditching that and getting some highend servos.