LRP Z.21R Spec.4 .21?

[gregosh]

Hey everyone just wondering if anyone out there has good needle settings for that motor. The stock settings are 4 1/4 high side and 3 1/4 low side and seems way to rich. Won’t hold idle at those settings and has no power low or high sides.

Thanks in advance

 

[Littlemotor]

Hey everyone just wondering if anyone out there has good needle settings for that motor. The stock settings are 4 1/4 high side and 3 1/4 low side and seems way to rich. Won’t hold idle at those settings and has no power low or high sides.

Thanks in advance

“factory” needle settings mean nothing. They are there to adjust BECAUSE conditions are never the same from one place to the next, your fuel vs. mine, and so on.. People that say otherwise know absolutely zero about nitro engines.

This should help you..

And I HIGHLY recommend taking the time to learn THIS:

 

[TeknoJ]

that says it all!

 

[CertifiedMike]

Hey everyone just wondering if anyone out there has good needle settings for that motor. The stock settings are 4 1/4 high side and 3 1/4 low side and seems way to rich. Won’t hold idle at those settings and has no power low or high sides.

Thanks in advance

Generally speaking it is supposed to be a rich setting that will get you a point to trim down from.
Don't start lean!

Everything has been said and is right so good luck!!!

 

[gregosh]

Generally speaking it is supposed to be a rich setting that will get you a point to trim down from.
Don't start lean!

Everything has been said and is right so good luck!!!

Yeah I’ve tried that and it still won’t idle. Info sheet says .5mm idle gap and set it to that with feeler gauge and leaned it up and still won’t idle at all. Guess I’ll just have to keep messing with it and see if I can figure it out. Thanks

 

[gregosh]

“factory” needle settings mean nothing. They are there to adjust BECAUSE conditions are never the same from one place to the next, your fuel vs. mine, and so on.. People that say otherwise know absolutely zero about nitro engines.

This should help you..

And I HIGHLY recommend taking the time to learn THIS:

Thanks for the information. And yeah I know what you are saying every situation is different when it comes to getting it dialed in.

 

[Littlemotor]

What’s your temp?

 

[CertifiedMike]

Did you check all the prefire checklist stuff? Your radio is adjusted?
Does your fuel tank hold pressure?
Are your fuel lines clear, blow thru freely?
No gunk blockung yout fuel pick up inside the tank?
Is your air cleaner new? Clean? Properly oiled?
Is your exhaust possibly flooded with fuel?
Is exhaust also sealed well?
How new is your fuel? Fresh, sealed-bottle new?
Did you move/disturb/rotate the carb when mounting the motor?
Is it possible the orings are disturbed, twisted, kinked or damaged?
Its important to use green slime or similar oring slick lube to let the o rings seat as freely as possible.
The factory might not have used green slime.
Soap works too... once.
How is the glowplug? 100% its correct and is a legit plug, not sourced from the lowest shipping on aliexpress in other words.

Just tossing ideas because it seems you've tried a few.


Good luck

 

[gregosh]

What’s your temp?

Low 140-150. But not sure if my temp gun is accurate. Just a cheap one from Amazon that I got for my pool. Need to do a spit test probably more reliable.

 

[Littlemotor]

Low 140-150. But not sure if my temp gun is accurate. Just a cheap one from Amazon that I got for my pool. Need to do a spit test probably more reliable.

That is nowhere even CLOSE to hot enough… You are 100F away from where you should be.

Is this engine used, and broken in already-or is it brand new?

The motor NEEDS to be at operating temperature before you can worry about if it will idle on its own, or is pig rich, etc.. That thing needs to be at LEAST 230deg Fahrenheit before you ever even attempt to turn it over bud..

 

[gregosh]

That is nowhere even CLOSE to hot enough… You are 100F away from where you should be.

Is this engine used, and broken in already-or is it brand new?

The motor NEEDS to be at operating temperature before you can worry about if it will idle on its own, or is pig rich, etc.. That thing needs to be at LEAST 230deg Fahrenheit before you ever even attempt to turn it over bud..

Yeah I know needs to be at least 200 to be at temp.

It’s new and it’s broken in ran about 6-8 tanks through it driving at low throttle for the first 3 tanks then started to add bursts of throttle for the next 4-5 tanks. It was just really hard to keep it running at the factory settings because they were super rich. Recommend break in settings where 5 high 3 1/2 low. Until I leaned it out some it wouldn’t even
accelerate. Also said .5mm idle gap.

And yeah I set it to the post break in settings and ran it at them after the first 8 tanks at low throttle and it still wouldn’t settle down to idle just dies.

 

[Littlemotor]

Yeah I know needs to be at least 200 to be at temp.

It’s new and it’s broken in ran about 6-8 tanks through it driving at low throttle for the first 3 tanks then started to add bursts of throttle for the next 4-5 tanks. It was just really hard to keep it running at the factory settings because they were super rich. Recommend break in settings where 5 high 3 1/2 low. Until I leaned it out some it wouldn’t even
accelerate. Also said .5mm idle gap.

And yeah I set it to the post break in settings and ran it at them after the first 8 tanks at low throttle and it still wouldn’t settle down to idle just dies.

Not 200; 230.

It should be this before even starting. This way you can actually tune the thing. This is not a suggestion, it’s a requirement.

If it will not idle, your tune is not where it should be-unless you have OTHER problems. 90% of the time with a nitro engine that will not respond to tuning, either the operator is attempting to tune a motor that’s not at operating temperature (which is what you are doing ), or there is a MECHANICAL issue that you are attempting to tune around. IE-problems with your clutch, improper shimming, air leak, fuel flow issue, improper fuel, or plug, etc..

Number one issue is to stop trying to tune at 100F below operating temperature.

If it will not maintain temperature, wrap your cooling head in foil, or a paper towel. This will maintain temp until it is broken in.

-also, tank count has absolutely ZERO to do with wether your engine is broken in. Metal pinch is the hurdle here, and it varies wildly between different engines, fuels, break-in procedures, etc..

Those videos I linked you to cover literally EVERYTHING you need to learn, and apply. You need to pay attention if you hope to be successful. You cannot just pick & choose what you apply, and what you do not think is necessary-such as tuning without being at operating temperature.

 

[gregosh]

Not 200; 230.

It should be this before even starting. This way you can actually tune the thing. This is not a suggestion, it’s a requirement.

If it will not idle, your tune is not where it should be-unless you have OTHER problems. 90% of the time with a nitro engine that will not respond to tuning, either the operator is attempting to tune a motor that’s not at operating temperature (which is what you are doing ), or there is a MECHANICAL issue that you are attempting to tune around. IE-problems with your clutch, improper shimming, air leak, fuel flow issue, improper fuel, or plug, etc..

Number one issue is to stop trying to tune at 100F below operating temperature.

If it will not maintain temperature, wrap your cooling head in foil, or a paper towel. This will maintain temp until it is broken in.

-also, tank count has absolutely ZERO to do with wether your engine is broken in. Metal pinch is the hurdle here, and it varies wildly between different engines, fuels, break-in procedures, etc..

Those videos I linked you to cover literally EVERYTHING you need to learn, and apply. You need to pay attention if you hope to be successful. You cannot just pick & choose what you apply, and what you do not think is necessary-such as tuning without being at operating temperature.

I hear what you are saying but when I have been able to get the motor up to temp I can’t tune it because it dies as soon as I stop it and then the temp drops. But I am pretty sure it’s operator error more than likely. However I have thought it could be the clutch also but it’s a new clutch but bought the car used but never run. But feel like the guy I got it from might have taken it apart and put it back together wrong. Because when I took it apart the springs were in the wrong way so think it might have screwed it up. But again like I said I’m sure I’m doing something wrong.

 

[Littlemotor]

I hear what you are saying but when I have been able to get the motor up to temp I can’t tune it because it dies as soon as I stop it and then the temp drops. But I am pretty sure it’s operator error more than likely. However I have thought it could be the clutch also but it’s a new clutch but bought the car used but never run. But feel like the guy I got it from might have taken it apart and put it back together wrong. Because when I took it apart the springs were in the wrong way so think it might have screwed it up. But again like I said I’m sure I’m doing something wrong.

Jerk the motor, and post some photos of the way it is shimmed, as well as how the clutch looks when you have removed the bell. We can get you sorted out man.

 

[gregosh]

Jerk the motor, and post some photos of the way it is shimmed, as well as how the clutch looks when you have removed the bell. We can get you sorted out man.

2 shims on the flywheel nut and one on the bell. Pretty sure the clutch is put together right now and bell doesn’t have scratches or groves shoes look perfect. But I’ll try and get it torn down and post pictures at some point. Going to a local hobby shop tomorrow to see if the nitro guy they have can figure it out.

Thanks

 

[Littlemotor]

2 shims on the flywheel nut and one on the bell. Pretty sure the clutch is put together right now and bell doesn’t have scratches or groves shoes look perfect. But I’ll try and get it torn down and post pictures at some point. Going to a local hobby shop tomorrow to see if the nitro guy they have can figure it out.

Thanks

Photos of the above just may save you a trip to the local hobby shop idiot..

 

[gregosh]

2 shims on the flywheel nut and one on the bell. Pretty sure the clutch is put together right now and bell doesn’t have scratches or groves shoes look perfect. But I’ll try and get it torn down and post pictures at some point. Going to a local hobby shop tomorrow to see if the nitro guy they have can figure it out.

Thanks

Yeah just might but not sure if I want to tear it apart again tonight. But I was just outside messing with it and I think I might know why it won’t idle. When it shuts off or comes out of full throttle it is loosing prime in the fuel line. So thinking could be an air issue, but I did replace the fuel lines and the in tank filter so thinking maybe tank seal is bad. I’ll get it figured out eventually just going to take Me some time to flush out what’s causing the issue. But I for sure got it hot enough this time out was running 200-230.

 

[TeknoJ]

I just did this like 30 minutes ago.
If it doesn’t idle on its own then give it some throttle to maintain temp. Drive the thing and get it hot.

 

[TeknoJ]

I just did this like 30 minutes ago.
If it doesn’t idle on its own then give it some throttle to maintain temp. Drive the thing and get it hot.

From there hold the throttle open and start tuning to get it idling -tune on-
Once my engine is pre- heated I focus on getting it started and keeping it running. It’s a small crankcase with nowhere for oil to go but out. If it’s broken in, manipulate it to keep it running.

 

[gregosh]

From there hold the throttle open and start tuning to get it idling -tune on-
Once my engine is pre- heated I focus on getting it started and keeping it running. It’s a small crankcase with nowhere for oil to go but out. If it’s broken in, manipulate it to keep it running.

Yeah I am going to try that in the morning. I got it closer today just have to keep working on it I’ll figure it out eventually.