• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

MTX-3 Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well I fixed my pulley problem, something to be said for putting a project up for the night and coming back to it with a new outlook.
 
Originally posted by FastEddy


I was referring to The owner of of our LHS. The dude is always right on the mark, and your help has been extremely beneficial as well.

Actually I never gave NA a thought, hasn't he only been in this hobby a year or so? For some reason I thought this was his first season of racing.
This is all new for me.

:x Sorry Eddy, I took a wrong guess. :shrug: I know he raced last year, But I don't know really how long he has been racing before that. I'm glad I've been able to help u and HB. Maybe I'll meet u guys at this year's Buffalo bash if ur coming.

Originally posted by HumboldtBlazer
Well I fixed my pulley problem, something to be said for putting a project up for the night and coming back to it with a new outlook.

I did have a slight problem with one of the pullies too. I had to really some muscle to get the pully together to fit the e-clip.
 
My problem was I assembled the collar on backwards but I swear on page 6 in the manual step 10 the sencon pulley assembly of the left side it shows the collar assembled in reverse. I looked and look at it and I swear it's wrong in the manual and that's why it got stuck. Who knows.

manual.jpg



You be the judge.

Is that the same pulley you had an issue with Team 17?
 
Last edited:
Looking good.
I didn't have the clearance issue in the rear that you did. You may want to triple check the assembly just to be sure you got all right.

Before you go to much farther, do some adjusting on the belt pulleys. This is don by moving the pulleys to the left or right on the shafts so the belt rides in the center of the pulley's rather than on the edges. Loosen one up a bit and spin the drive train. keep doing this until the belt finds the center than tighten it up.

At this pace your going to be done before I am.
 
I actually did a lot of readjusting of the pulleys and found the best position (so far) in regards to free spinning drive train. I rechecked my build before I ever sanded away on the inside to make it clear. how close is yours, I bet very very close to touching when one of the 4 screws that hold the rear diff together pass through the inside of the rear shocktower (plastic and graphite). I messed with the drive train and brake action for over three hours and I am real happy at this point. Maybe when you see it you can check it out and tell me if I am trippin or not.
 
Well FastEddy was right once again. Go figure. I am lucky he helps he hehehe. Anyways a bearing on the outside housing of the diff was barley not seated and thus causing it to be out of place(now my shock tower is a little lighter that yours FastEddy). With some brute force I was able to snap it into place. All the disassembly and re-assembly got me and the rear end of my car real familiar. Some more pics

mtx3n7.jpg


mtx3n8.jpg


mtx3n9.jpg
 
Last edited:
Fasteddy- How's ur progress? Haven't seen pics lately.
HB- Looking good.
 
I got 5 tanks through her today for a break-in. I couldn't believe how easy it fired up. I heat cycled it for 3 tanks letting it sit on the starter box.

On the 4th tank I set it on the ground and did some 8s and some medium speed runs. Its hard to tell how well it really handles due to the small lot I have for break-in.
 
What a bummer! I would deffinitely look into some spike strips. MF's. How many of those little spacers for the engine did you end up with Ed? I just want to make sure mine is close. Maybe I might get some break-in time tomorrow.
 
I measured the gap using extra washers.
Each washer is .10 and you need what? .30 gap.

Make it so you can slip 3 washers between the middle of the washers stacked on the shaft.

Double check, I'm believe my numbers are right but I don't have the book here.
 
done1.jpg


done2.jpg


done3.jpg


done4.jpg


done5.jpg


done6.jpg


done7.jpg


done8.jpg


done9.jpg


done10.jpg


I got 2 tanks through it before it got dark. Not to exciting considering the wheels haven't hit the ground yet. I have to say the engine fired right up and tuned nicely. I set it pretty rich. I will run one more before I start to put some rpms on her. Will see if the weather holds and I should have it all the way broke in by tomorrow after work. We will see how long the failsafe actually lasts there (I bet not even one race but we will see). Not much else I could do with it do to wire length. Also the aluminum throttle arm doesn't work even with nuts on top the screws. With the movement back and forth with throttle and brake the cannot be too tight as it binds and it backs the nuts off. I tried washers and it was all a waste of time, just had to use a plain old plastic servo arm ooh well it worked great so srew it.
 
Last edited:
that big thing coming off the side a fail safe?


wow i geuss i dont read.....


its the reciver case too i geuss
 
Last edited:
Yep the white box sitting on the outside of the radiox box and I use the word box lightly. It's big, and it works.

I know its been done before but now I am done I am pretty proud I built it. Building a quality kit is very rewarding. I deffinitely learned a lot. The car is put together great, could use a little more room in the radio department but JR stuff runs big. I could have used my micro JR 2 channel FM but since I will be racing this I thought the synth would be a little more conveinient.
 
Last edited:
lol i was refering to the reciever cae and the fail safe though it weas one peice at first D:


:opps: :stick: :stick: :stick:
 
Cars look great,

Blazer - a recommendation - Increase the fuel tubing coming from the pipe to the tank to around 8 inches in length and wrap it in a loop. This will prevent pulsing, otherwise it foams up the fuel and can also cause airbubbles in the fuel line going to the carb.

Otherwise - car looks great.
 
HB- Looks great. It is a nice kit to build. I had the same problem with the throttle Alum. servo horn too. So I used the plastic as well. HAve fun with it, hopefully we can race each other at one of the bashes.
 
You guys are making me want to keep my mugen mtx 2 and start messing with it again. I was going to take it apart and check everything out. I dont have instructions and by the way you guys talked you really need them. Is there any aluminum parts like a arms you can buy for these cars. Also is my rossi r12 pixy a good enough motor for it. I only ran it one time and that was in my garage just to see if it ran.
 
Back
Top