MTX-3 Questions

[Team 17]

Originally posted by FastEddy
I'm a bit confused on the directions for the engine clutch assembly.
Once everything is put together, it refers to measuring between two points. Are they trying to say leave .003 ~ .005 worth of play or gap using the spacers for adjustment on the end of the shaft?

Should I use any thread lock or an other method to tighten the 1st and 2nd speed gears together on the engine side?

This is my first attempt at working with a 2 speed and a centrex clutch I could use any advice available.

Correction!-threadlocking the adjusting nut prohibits the ability to adjust the clutch with the centax clutch tool - threadlocking the pinion gears makes switching them an absolute pain in the ass. tighten them on the clutch bell with a pair of plyers and a piece of rubber between that and the gears to prevent scratching. the screw on the opposite way the clutch spins, so centrifugal force will tighten the gears, not loosen them.

 

[FastEddy]

Cool,
What about the free play 0f .003~.005?
Is that the total free play of the pinion setup on the shaft adjusted with shims?

The directions for this are unclear to me.

-Ed

 

[Team 17]

This was a mystery to me as well. So I stayed with the Pic A in the Manuel and so far I've been fine.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Originally posted by Team 17
This was a mystery to me as well. So I stayed with the Pic A in the Manuel and so far I've been fine.

I read it to, and the suplement as well. Ed has a really good interpratation of it, but it leaves room for guessing. This is probably the most illusive part of the manual for sure. It looks like they used babblefish to be honest. Dont get me wrong here, great kit bad interpratation.

Here is some initial pics of my new love

 

[FastEddy]

OK man,
Whats that jug of Nitro doing in your house?

From everything I have read from the World Famous Know it All RC Guru

Your house will burn down and kill everyone inside when your pet cow kicks it over then burns down the entire city of Chicago.

Nice Kit.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

LMFAO, you didn't see the open bottle behind it!

Speaking of RC know it alls

I heard at one on my management seminars I went to where someone referred to a person that everyones knows (this has current realativity if everyone thinks about it) SOAKU is the name of this person we know. It means Source Of All Knowledge in the Universe. We all know that guy. It just so happens to mean in Japanese "low quality". Ironic isn't it? and not the low quality part.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I decided to go with and order the Volvo s60 (actually just got dicontinued) body for racing my MTX-3.



I know Protoform is widely used in on-road racing and I know Proline to make some pretty nice stuff imo. I went with one of the cab forward designs that are so popular (all started with the Stratus from what I can gather). I went withthe Volvo as Sweedish cars are my favorites. Should look good until I t-bone the hell outa Eddy in a race.

:trashed:

 

[FastEddy]

I'm going with the Mazda6

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I really liked the Mazda and the Vaxhual also. Protoform seems to be where it's at. I got mine for $19.99 @ www.rlhobbies.com


Nice pick Eddy

 

[Team 17]

I forgot to tell u guys about the problem u might have with the brake linkage. In the manuel it tells u to install the servo under the radio tray, but when u put on the linkage it rubs against the tray. So I hade to mount the servo on top of the tray so that the linkage clears.

Here's my racing body:

 

[FastEddy]

Ill be at the point of installing the linkage this evening, thanks for the heads up.

I was able to talk to our local guru about the play in the bell.
His interpretation was to use a feeler guage in-between two of the end washers. Its better to go for .003 to start. When the parts start to wear in don't let it get past .005.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

So I get to the front diff. Looks like you could build the front one way or build the front geared diff. Not the case here. I looked at all the parts both ways and did a count of everything before I did this. Turns out the front one way is the only way you can build it without buying two drive cups like the rear diff uses with the holes in it so you can insert the pin which the the planetary gear sits on. The only provide teo of those cups and two of the cups without the holes and a little shorter and wider that seem to be different to fit the front one-ways diameter. Also you would need two extra pins, why they didn't include two cups and two pins is beyond me. I would have liked to build it without the front one way myself.

 

[Team 17]

For racing the front -one way is the way to go. Which is why I think they didn't include the extra parts for the front diffs.

 

[FastEddy]

Speaking with an accomplished racer about this exact topic, here is what I got out of the conversation.

For the type of track we will be racing on the standard diff will be easier in respect to driving but will most defiantly take us out of the top of the field due to cornering speed.

Using the one way will allow the car to come out of corners much faster but cause the rear end to kick out a lot easier going into a corner to fast.

His best advice was to use the One way and learn to properly slow down into the corners and pull out faster.

Did I understand this properly?

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I still want the other diff........ At least to compare, I think it is which ever suits your drving style but then again what the hell do I know about on-road.

 

[FastEddy]

Originally posted by HumboldtBlazer
what the hell do I know about on-road.

I'm in the same boat as you. I'm just trying to learn.

I do know someone who knows absolutely everything about everything when it comes to racing on road, I hope to hear from him soon. :madface:

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Some progress

The only had one problem so far where a pulley didn't fit onto shaft all the way for me the get the e-clip on. So now it on't go on futher or come of either. I thried a lot of different things and without ruining it entirely it is stuck. Looks like the replacements will be about $25. I can use this pulley it's like 1-2mm were talking here and since it won't come off I figure who needs the e-clip until I can get a replacement. The other 3 pulleys were a snap so this one was a mystery to me as it was done the same way.

 

[Team 17]

Originally posted by FastEddy
I do know someone who knows absolutely everything about everything when it comes to racing on road, I hope to hear from him soon. :madface:

I'm guessing u mean NA. He's been helping me out and I've learned alot from him. :worship:

 

[FastEddy]

Originally posted by Team 17


I'm guessing u mean NA. He's been helping me out and I've learned alot from him. :worship:

I was referring to The owner of of our LHS. The dude is always right on the mark, and your help has been extremely beneficial as well.

Actually I never gave NA a thought, hasn't he only been in this hobby a year or so? For some reason I thought this was his first season of racing.
This is all new for me.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Yeah Jake has been racing for over a decade from I know and probably more than that. Dude designs cars so I listen when he talks. He never comes out and says this or that, but if you ask him he tells you. Jake is the man!