Mgt4.6, transmission fixed, drive cups keep blowing the pins out

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Bakershaker78

RCTalk Rookie
Messages
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Location
Spokane, WA
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Crawling
So basically, got the mac*28 6p swapped in out of the ol sportwerks, got the three needle carb tuned by the local hobby shop, noticed it was 2wd, right then and there bought the drive cup rebuild kit, went home, put red locktite on it, let it sit for 2 days, went to rip it, broke again, same issue, how do y’all mgt rippers keep the drive cups intact? I’m thinking of a cotter pin or e clips on the end of a pin and that’ll keep it from backing out.
 
Can you show a few pictures? I am not familiar with the truck itself.
 
So basically, got the mac*28 6p swapped in out of the ol sportwerks, got the three needle carb tuned by the local hobby shop, noticed it was 2wd, right then and there bought the drive cup rebuild kit, went home, put red locktite on it, let it sit for 2 days, went to rip it, broke again, same issue, how do y’all mgt rippers keep the drive cups intact? I’m thinking of a cotter pin or e clips on the end of a pin and that’ll keep it from backing out.

I never had that much issues with mine ,every now & then they vibrate loose an fall out ,I just replace them
as I hate putting loc- tire on those grub screw pins!
I've seen people use that shrink wrap over the hubs though!..😎
 
So basically, got the mac*28 6p swapped in out of the ol sportwerks, got the three needle carb tuned by the local hobby shop, noticed it was 2wd, right then and there bought the drive cup rebuild kit, went home, put red locktite on it, let it sit for 2 days, went to rip it, broke again, same issue, how do y’all mgt rippers keep the drive cups intact? I’m thinking of a cotter pin or e clips on the end of a pin and that’ll keep it from backing out.
Sorry, I can't really help as I'm not a nitro guy by any stretch of the mind, and I haven't ever had issues like yours on my smaller scale electric rigs. I can say though, take the screw/grub screw out, clean off the threads with rubbing alcohol or something, clean the drive cup threads with a Q-tip, and make sure the grub screw is on the original thread, and screw it in real good and tight with a good driver. If all else fails, Loctite exists, but only use purple or blue Loctite, NEVER the red stuff! If you use the red stuff, those grub screws aren't ever coming out, but when you need to take them out, you'll have a heck of a time heating up those little screws, taking them out, and cleaning them!
 
Can you show a few pictures? I am not familiar with the truck itself.
Yeah, I’ll take a few today
I never had that much issues with mine ,every now & then they vibrate loose an fall out ,I just replace them
as I hate putting loc- tire on those grub screw pins!
I've seen people use that shrink wrap over the hubs though!..😎
It’s the cv pin that’s coming out, it’s a pain in the Butt, if I can find some heat shrink that would be my next bet
Sorry, I can't really help as I'm not a nitro guy by any stretch of the mind, and I haven't ever had issues like yours on my smaller scale electric rigs. I can say though, take the screw/grub screw out, clean off the threads with rubbing alcohol or something, clean the drive cup threads with a Q-tip, and make sure the grub screw is on the original thread, and screw it in real good and tight with a good driver. If all else fails, Loctite exists, but only use purple or blue Loctite, NEVER the red stuff! If you use the red stuff, those grub screws aren't ever coming out, but when you need to take them out, you'll have a heck of a time heating up those little screws, taking them out, and cleaning them!
I’m currently using red loctite, and not even that is keeping them in
 
Yeah, I’ll take a few today

It’s the cv pin that’s coming out, it’s a pain in the Butt, if I can find some heat shrink that would be my next bet

I’m currently using red loctite, and not even that is keeping them in
🤯😶😮 That's crazy...in that case, sadly, I can't help you more. Maybe try going to your LHS and see if they can help. Try the heatshrink recommended my others too, if that doesn't work, just get some new CVDs, yours might be worn, and thus the grub keeps backing out.
 
Yeah, I’ll take a few today

It’s the cv pin that’s coming out, it’s a pain in the Butt, if I can find some heat shrink that would be my next bet

I’m currently using red loctite, and not even that is keeping them in

Are you talking about the axles cv's or the drive line cv's?
 
Are you talking about the axles cv's or the drive line cv's?
Driveline
Are you talking about the axles cv's or the drive line cv's?
The ones in the barrel with the hole that the pin goes through, the grub screws there are the ones that keep backing out and making everything fly everywhere
 
If you have used this....
1645136755228.png

and not this....

1645136786705.png

You've got something serious going on. Normally, Loctite Red (271) must have heat applied to the parts to be removed. It's strong stuff.
They both come in a red tube now days which can be confusing. The blue used to come in a blue colored tube which made them very easy to tell apart. Not as easy today. Bad move on their part in my opinion.
 
If you have used this....
View attachment 142126
and not this....

View attachment 142127
You've got something serious going on. Normally, Loctite Red (271) must have heat applied to the parts to be removed. It's strong stuff.
They both come in a red tube now days which can be confusing. The blue used to come in a blue colored tube which made them very easy to tell apart. Not as easy today. Bad move on their part in my opinion.
Yes I’m using 271 and she’s still pulling off lol, it mighta snapped my aftermarket pin tho, so who knows
You can also try the 8.0 version drive shafts as they got a snap ring around the cup to secure the pin!..😎
I was starting to make my own with 2 e clips on the pin, one on each side to secure it and the grub screw
 
Yes I’m using 271 and she’s still pulling off lol, it mighta snapped my aftermarket pin tho, so who knows

If you can find them ,the MIP's put out a driveshaft & axle set up too ,I run them on my truck ,but I have
3 mgt's an I have some origina driveshaft's!..👍
I just looked on E-Bay an Mgt parts are scarse ,an whats there is over priced!..😢
 
If you have used this....
View attachment 142126
and not this....

View attachment 142127
You've got something serious going on. Normally, Loctite Red (271) must have heat applied to the parts to be removed. It's strong stuff.
They both come in a red tube now days which can be confusing. The blue used to come in a blue colored tube which made them very easy to tell apart. Not as easy today. Bad move on their part in my opinion.
Yeah, he was the Red, 272 stuff, that's why I was surprised! Talk about determination...those drive CVD grub screws REALLY want to come out! 🤣🤣 I have the blue 242 stuff and it works fine.
 
Yeah, he was the Red, 272 stuff, that's why I was surprised! Talk about determination...those drive CVD grub screws REALLY want to come out! 🤣🤣 I have the blue 242 stuff and it works fine.
I have never had to use red on anything….. RC, dirt bike, car, etc. I’ve used a ton of blue and it has always done the job for me. I feel bad for bakershaker78. He’s got a real head scratcher on his hands!
 
I have never had to use red on anything….. RC, dirt bike, car, etc. I’ve used a ton of blue and it has always done the job for me. I feel bad for bakershaker78. He’s got a real head scratcher on his hands!
I actually just got my first ever threadlocker, the blue 242, about two months ago, before that, there wasn't a situation that NEEDED Loctite, though I do wish I'd bought it earlier for some other stuff I've wrenched on. I suspect the CVD threads are worn, dirt, or stripped, and the grub screw might be the same. @Bakershaker78 might be best off getting new CVDs, that might help. Other than that, I can't believe I'm saying this, but if new CVDs don't do the trick, he could try a little drop of super glue. I'm hesitant to say that, it's a last resort, as CA glue is a pain to take out (worse than red Loctite sometimes!), and it's messy, ect. But it is there...If even new CVDs and CA glue don't do the trick...tell me @Bakershaker78, and I might have an even worse, even more frowned upon idea...in fact, it's so bad, that I've never heard anybody mention it, and once you do it, the grub ain't coming out till the end of the world!
 
I actually just got my first ever threadlocker, the blue 242, about two months ago, before that, there wasn't a situation that NEEDED Loctite, though I do wish I'd bought it earlier for some other stuff I've wrenched on. I suspect the CVD threads are worn, dirt, or stripped, and the grub screw might be the same. @Bakershaker78 might be best off getting new CVDs, that might help. Other than that, I can't believe I'm saying this, but if new CVDs don't do the trick, he could try a little drop of super glue. I'm hesitant to say that, it's a last resort, as CA glue is a pain to take out (worse than red Loctite sometimes!), and it's messy, ect. But it is there...If even new CVDs and CA glue don't do the trick...tell me @Bakershaker78, and I might have an even worse, even more frowned upon idea...in fact, it's so bad, that I've never heard anybody mention it, and once you do it, the grub ain't coming out till the end of the world!

Yea ,its weird ,I don't have any issues with them an I don't use any thread lock on mine at all ,I refuse
to put it there because it is hard to get the pins back out to service the trans. ,I would rather for them
to fall out every now then an just replace them or make sure they are tight before I run!
I almost said something about super glue too!..👍
 
I actually just got my first ever threadlocker, the blue 242, about two months ago, before that, there wasn't a situation that NEEDED Loctite, though I do wish I'd bought it earlier for some other stuff I've wrenched on. I suspect the CVD threads are worn, dirt, or stripped, and the grub screw might be the same. @Bakershaker78 might be best off getting new CVDs, that might help. Other than that, I can't believe I'm saying this, but if new CVDs don't do the trick, he could try a little drop of super glue. I'm hesitant to say that, it's a last resort, as CA glue is a pain to take out (worse than red Loctite sometimes!), and it's messy, ect. But it is there...If even new CVDs and CA glue don't do the trick...tell me @Bakershaker78, and I might have an even worse, even more frowned upon idea...in fact, it's so bad, that I've never heard anybody mention it, and once you do it, the grub ain't coming out till the end of the world!
These are fresh grubs after I lost both front and rear barrels while the hobby shop was helping me tune the 3 needle carb on it, so I’m sure that they are clean and not stripped
I actually just got my first ever threadlocker, the blue 242, about two months ago, before that, there wasn't a situation that NEEDED Loctite, though I do wish I'd bought it earlier for some other stuff I've wrenched on. I suspect the CVD threads are worn, dirt, or stripped, and the grub screw might be the same. @Bakershaker78 might be best off getting new CVDs, that might help. Other than that, I can't believe I'm saying this, but if new CVDs don't do the trick, he could try a little drop of super glue. I'm hesitant to say that, it's a last resort, as CA glue is a pain to take out (worse than red Loctite sometimes!), and it's messy, ect. But it is there...If even new CVDs and CA glue don't do the trick...tell me @Bakershaker78, and I might have an even worse, even more frowned upon idea...in fact, it's so bad, that I've never heard anybody mention it, and once you do it, the grub ain't coming out till the end of the world!
If the red locktite and new pin don’t work then I’m sending the dual e clip pin idea, I’m decent at running a Dremel in a mount and a file as a mini lathe to make the e clip pins
 
These are fresh grubs after I lost both front and rear barrels while the hobby shop was helping me tune the 3 needle carb on it, so I’m sure that they are clean and not stripped

If the red locktite and new pin don’t work then I’m sending the dual e clip pin idea, I’m decent at running a Dremel in a mount and a file as a mini lathe to make the e clip pins

I thought about running a groove around the hubs an adding a snap ring ,I think it can be done!..👍😎
 
Also an update, I’m finally breaking down and tearing into the stock engine to check pinch and etc, if all is good, I’m gonna double check seals, put some rtv on the carb port and other areas, swap the clutch over and run it, the hobao somehow locked itself on the pull start pin with the rod and shredded the turbo fan.

And to make it even better… My actual car keeps throwing tpms sensors, I need to change the oil on multiple of my machines and My quad needs valve shims Polaris has proprietary parts in these engines since they were designed by ktm so the shims are actually quite spendy, I have too many hobbies lmao.
I thought about running a groove around the hubs an adding a snap ring ,I think it can be done!..👍😎
Not around the drive cup, I’m going to do it on either end, I’d rather make a longer pin, then cut down the aluminum drive cups making them weaker
Here’s what I think happened, I think it first Through a one way pin somehow which then grenaded the fan, i don’t even know anymore, this happened while I was yanking on the pull cord, I guess I’m either really strong or hobao had really bad casting
 

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