• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

Mayhem.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I dont believe they are the same in any way. The only thing i agree on for the LOSI part is what Diver6172 stated. It's ok though. Thanks for all of your opinions.
 
I wonder : what is holding those lower arm supports in place ?
 
I have to say the fuel caps do look the same. Maybe Losi just got the outsorcing of making a few parts for Mayhem, or vise versa.
 
gdc02 said:
I wonder : what is holding those lower arm supports in place ?
Click to expand...
I dont follow ya? If your talking the lower suspension arm its a hinge pin setup.
 
Last edited:
no I mean the little metal braces
that set the toe-in at the rear for instance,
they seem just sitting there with nothing retaining them ?????
 
You mean the bulkhead braces then....front and rear and top and bottom
 
no bottom
what's holding them ?
if nothing is holding them, they must move around on the lower suspension axles and axles must twist on the plastics they go trough
seems not a solid system
please help me to understand
 
Last edited:
gdc02 said:
no bottom
what's holding them ?
if nothing is holding them, they must move around on the lower suspension axles and axles must twist on the plastics they go trough
seems not a solid system
please help me to understand
Click to expand...
YOu got me completely lost. Refer to the picture you are talking about by post # or look at the manual in the post on the previous page. I have one of the Mayhems in front of me and I can assure you there is no twisting in the back.
 
I mean these

http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload6/brace_3.5.jpg
in the manual I don't see how they stay put
there are no holes in them
other brands have these in sturdy plastic and have them solidly screwed to the diffblocks

here, the axle goes first through the c-washer , through the brace itself ,then the suspensionlegpart, then passing the plastic holder hole, then the other suspensionleg part again and c-washer again

do the axles turn onto the braces or what ???
if one can put in a 3.5 toe-in brace / , the hole in the plastic holder must be bigger than the axle ???????
 
Last edited:
I see what you are talking about. The item you referred to as "plastic holder" is called an carrier block. The fit between the hinge pin and the carrier block is a tight fit that is held in place by circlips and is identical on the other side making it a complete solid unit. Toe in adjustments are made by changing the carrier block and the hinge pin brace.
 
Last edited:
I'm sorry my english is not 100%, you have been a big help

to place the 3.5 toe-in brace , I have to have another carrierblock too or not?

what is the original toe-in degree then ? are there other degrees available ?
it are the suspension arms that rotate on the pins then ??
 
gdc02 said:
I'm sorry my english is not 100%
Click to expand...
Hey no problem...its a learning experience for me too. Origional tow in is 3 degrees. To achieve 3.5 you need this:


http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK9134

According to tech you do not need to change the carrier block. I was wrong...sorry.

It obvious you and I think alike. Looking at the carrier/hinge pin and brace design you would think you would need to change more but they assured me you do not.
 
Last edited:
I think 3.0 degrees is already a maximum allowed, to achieve a stable car
without having driven the car , I would have prefered 2.5 or 1.5 degree braces to play around with

without kidding, what to you think about the mayhem, in view of the ttr s3, xray or mbx even swift ?????
 
Last edited:
I think it’s the nicest buggy for its class. It’s a capable RTR racer like the Jammin RTR and the H7 RTR. Though the engines are not ROAR legal. Honestly for the price I can’t believe they crammed all those racing features in there. Some say it’s a basher...I couldn’t disagree more, it’s a racer through and through.

I don’t have a lot of experience with the Swift...so I really can’t say about that, but I don’t think it’s as nice as the others. There just in a different league. The Mayhem is ideal for someone who wants to be competitive but can’t drop a lot of money. At one of the tracks I race at a guy with the Mayhem places consistently top 3 in the A main. Though, he always has been a fast driver coming off of a Kanai, so the Mayhem has not hurt him one bit.

I know this is a Mayhem thread the car that I am impressed with is the new Thunder Tiger. Probably one the highest quality cars I have ever seen...though I will stick with my MBX5 P, at least this year.
 
Last edited:
that's about my problem
I can buy a ttr s3 kit at the same price as the mayhem pro kit
I like both, because they are different
but the ttr seems more value for money
and is the summum of technologica
the mayhem is the summum of simplicity

what to do :shrug:

I still prefer the mayhem
 
Last edited:
well, actually 2 levels of ARR and one RTR. One ARR has no engine and no electronics. The other has the .21 race engine and no electronics.
 
Diver6127 said:
well, actually 2 levels of ARR and one RTR. One ARR has no engine and no electronics. The other has the .21 race engine and no electronics.
Click to expand...
Oh thats right, there is 2 ARR. What a great idea, if fits just about any budget.
 
it's infact the pro kit without motor or radiogear I mean
 
Last edited:

RC Builds

Back
Top