I understand that. But the big rock breaks more often than my rival mt10 and my kronos xtr. Always either a drive shaft, diff issue, or slipper clutch. Back before we moved, small addictions rc was a 30min drive. Of course they had a ton of traxxas parts, but they did have alot of corally parts. A few times i did have to order stuff. We just moved to kentucky and the nearest shop is over an hr away and its a hobby town. Went once and it was terrible. So I'm stuck ordering parts for now. That said i have not had any issues ordering or getting corally parts
Just tired of my big rock breaking constantly.. just looking for a similar sized rig to replace it.
Is mt410 based on 8scale platform?
What do you think about pr racing? There is not a lot of info and videos about pr racing but couple people at my local track switched to pr racing. From what I have been able to find, it's a small company from Taiwan.Yes, the MT410 is based on the EB48 chassis with the ET48 arms/shafts, they were following suit with the SCT410 naming where the SCT410 also shares the same chassis with the EB48.
That's really unfortunate... I completely understand that a RTR is a great way to get started and see if the hobby is for you... but there's a lot of maintenance involved to ultimately save you money down the road (pun intended), ha!
Generally you want to do a complete rebuild of the car after every 15-20 battery packs. A rebuild consists of removing every single bearing, cleaning and/or replacing any bearings that are crunchy and no longer spin smooth. Then you replace the fluids in all the shocks and diffs while re-applying fresh grease on the rubber seals in the diffs/shocks to prevent leaks.
During the rebuild is when you inspect for signs of wear which can cascade to many broken parts instead of replacing just 1 less expensive worn part.
A seized bearing from a car not properly maintained can cause your motor to overheat and fail.. even worse depending on the motor failure can sometimes also kill the ESC too
Very few RTR's provide proper instruction to perform maintenance and that's where you have the advantage of building a kit to learn how everything goes together.
I truly believe that RTR = "Ready To Reassemble" where I feel that if you want something done right you need to do it yourself. Many RTR's are prone to human error... they are slapping these cars together as fast as they can which can very easily strip a thread or skimp on grease, etc which can lead to premature failures.
Not uncommon to see folks strip out all their electronics from an RTR and upgrade to higher quality components which completely defeats the purpose. Even more so are those who invest in a bunch of carbon and aluminum upgrades where if you bought a high quality kit from TEKNO, you don't need to make many expensive upgrades.
I believe the MT410 is about to be replaced the 2.0 version soon, so now is the time to get the best price before the 1.3 version is retired... and TEKNO will continue making parts for 1.3 as they have always made all their kits backwards compatible or continue making parts to support their legacy platforms.
I have no affiliation with TEKNO, just sharing what I know will save you money and frustration over the long haul.
I have a build thread here on the SCT410 which is extremely similar to the build for the MT410 to get a better idea of the quality TEKNO has to offer:
Best of luck finding a suitable replacement!
If you decide to build a kit I'd be happy to help make some suggestions on electronics to buy to keep costs low.
I am not a "Factory Level Driver", but will occasionally get into close battles with some of the pros.I'm not like alot of guys on here. I love rc, to a point. I go out back with the kids, bash play, clean them up and put away. I'm not into competition, and keep them mostly stock unless something breaks. When i built my kronos xtr it wasn't bad, because all they need is a esc motor and radio. Any more than that and i would have passed on it. Id just rather run a rtr till it breaks and upgrade as needed, vs chasing parts down to build a rollerYes, the MT410 is based on the EB48 chassis with the ET48 arms/shafts, they were following suit with the SCT410 naming where the SCT410 also shares the same chassis with the EB48.
That's really unfortunate... I completely understand that a RTR is a great way to get started and see if the hobby is for you... but there's a lot of maintenance involved to ultimately save you money down the road (pun intended), ha!
Generally you want to do a complete rebuild of the car after every 15-20 battery packs. A rebuild consists of removing every single bearing, cleaning and/or replacing any bearings that are crunchy and no longer spin smooth. Then you replace the fluids in all the shocks and diffs while re-applying fresh grease on the rubber seals in the diffs/shocks to prevent leaks.
During the rebuild is when you inspect for signs of wear which can cascade to many broken parts instead of replacing just 1 less expensive worn part.
A seized bearing from a car not properly maintained can cause your motor to overheat and fail.. even worse depending on the motor failure can sometimes also kill the ESC too
Very few RTR's provide proper instruction to perform maintenance and that's where you have the advantage of building a kit to learn how everything goes together.
I truly believe that RTR = "Ready To Reassemble" where I feel that if you want something done right you need to do it yourself. Many RTR's are prone to human error... they are slapping these cars together as fast as they can which can very easily strip a thread or skimp on grease, etc which can lead to premature failures.
Not uncommon to see folks strip out all their electronics from an RTR and upgrade to higher quality components which completely defeats the purpose. Even more so are those who invest in a bunch of carbon and aluminum upgrades where if you bought a high quality kit from TEKNO, you don't need to make many expensive upgrades.
I believe the MT410 is about to be replaced the 2.0 version soon, so now is the time to get the best price before the 1.3 version is retired... and TEKNO will continue making parts for 1.3 as they have always made all their kits backwards compatible or continue making parts to support their legacy platforms.
I have no affiliation with TEKNO, just sharing what I know will save you money and frustration over the long haul.
I have a build thread here on the SCT410 which is extremely similar to the build for the MT410 to get a better idea of the quality TEKNO has to offer:
Best of luck finding a suitable replacement!
If you decide to build a kit I'd be happy to help make some suggestions on electronics to buy to keep costs low.
