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making my buggy 2 wheel drive??

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tbsleeper

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just wondering if it can be done temporarily. i wanna see what its like and the speed difference. also will it hurt anything? i wanna do this because i have been driving alot on the road wit street tires and its really fun because i never break anything :)
 
I think that it will definitely hurt your engine. I read that Jeff Guest had a race and a set screw came out leaving him in rear whell drive. He tried to keep going but his engine overheated. That is only what I read. Nothing from own experience.
 
think maybe if i richened it up?? i can see it overheating because the engine now has a lighter workload and can put out more power easier.
 
possibly but O think a mod with experince would help. I know that my MGT started to heat up after it lost front wheel drive for the same stupid set screw. I stopped running it as it was too hard to control and it was really getting hot!
 
the reason these cars had engines overheat when loosing thier front drive is because they still had a functioning diff in the center. the majority of thier power was being wasted on the diff fluid and allowing the engine to over rev. if you lock the center diff or eliminate it all together, you can run rwd no problem. it will make it harder to control the car, but your experimenting right. if you have a spare center diff. build it with some epoxy or JB Weld inside it so that the diff action is eliminated. then remove your front center drive shaft.
 
CorradoPsi said:
the reason these cars had engines overheat when loosing thier front drive is because they still had a functioning diff in the center. the majority of thier power was being wasted on the diff fluid and allowing the engine to over rev. if you lock the center diff or eliminate it all together, you can run rwd no problem. it will make it harder to control the car, but your experimenting right. if you have a spare center diff. build it with some epoxy or JB Weld inside it so that the diff action is eliminated. then remove your front center drive shaft.

how whould you eliminate the center diff/?? you can't you still need to transfer power to the rear wheels..

if you were to put jb weld in your diff you whould not go any were..how whould the gears spin..they still need to move..
 
You're eliminating the center diff, because if you're not using a front diff, and you lock your center, it's really only like you've got one diff (the rear, the old center "diff" is now just a part of the driveshaft).

By putting JB weld in the diff, you're locking it up sending 100% of the power through to the rear wheels (assuming you're not using your front diff anymore, and if you are using your front diff, you're then sending 100% of your engines power straight through the center diff).

Save yourself some money and don't use JB weld or anything like that. Just get some 300k diff oil...that'll lock up the diff probably 98% of the way, and when you're done experimenting you can clean it out.
 
ok iam seeing it now thanks gil. i think the hole jb weld thing threw me off..

i whould use silly puddy before i put jb weld in it..at least that is removable..
 
i suggested using an old diff cause the jbweld would render it useless afterwards. i havent priced new diffs yet and thats why i recommended it. i know for me to replace the diffs on my super nitro its like $11 for the whole thing, case, gears, outdrives, seals and all. havent had to replace a buggy diff yet. the sillyputty sounds like a better option than the 300k weight. any way to lock it up.
 
Diffs are fairly cheap, but since the center one has the main gear it can be more expensive then the other two. But it's not a lot. I've been picking up spare parts on e-bay lately, and I got a center diff for all of $4.

But yea, you definately gotta lock the diff up, and the more the better. I'd personally go with the JB Weld on an old diff, that way you know you're giving 100% to the rear diff.

I wonder how one of these things would run front wheel drive =)
 
What if you pulled the drive shaft going from the center diff to the front diff? Wouldn't that essentially make it a rear wheel drive car without the power going to never never land? Or am I just really dumb?
 
no if you pull the front drive line out the center diff still wants to put power to the front and you go no were..well you do but there is no power there.because the center diff will send the most power to the path of least resentince (ie)the disconected front
 
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Okay, I did reply to this yesterday, don't know what the hell happened :shrug: but either way, here it is again. There are 2 posts bassicaly on the same thing right now, one asking how to lock the center diff and the other asking how to make it rear wheel drive... well the answer is that you have to lock the center diff to make it rear wheel drive. All you need to do is turn the diff into a spool... which is a solid drive instead of the differential. gunit has this in his gallery, I don't know where he got it from so you may want to get ahold of him, but anyway, you install this piece in place of the gears from within the diff and the outdrives connect to a solid piece instead. Then all you need to do is take out the front drive shaft and you have yourself a 2WD buggy.
4703spool-med.JPG

4703spool_2.JPG
 
WA2FAST said:
There are 2 posts bassicaly on the same thing right now, one asking how to lock the center diff and the other asking how to make it rear wheel drive... well the answer is that you have to lock the center diff to make it rear wheel drive.

And now there's three posts saying the same thing~

The Diff lock thing looks cool but you'd probably need the right size for your diff since Mugen, GS, Kyosho, Ofna, etc all have different sizes.

Seems to me like it would be just as easy or easier if you got yourself a spare center diff for cheap and then cemented the inside.
 
I agree with you. That way you wouldn't have to rebuild it every time you wanted to switch how it acted.
 
I'm doing something similiar to this. I'm building a front wheel drive buggy. real 1:1 front wheel drive cars always handle better then rear wheel drive cars in different conditions/ weather. in the rear, all i have is a empty diff case with the hubs and the axel. so there is no resitance in the rear. I got 2 center diffs coming from e-bay, one i will probly JB weld it, and keep the other one for a spare since i already got another buggy. o yea thanks ImBroken for all the extra parts, enough to build another one.

normal_Buggy%20022.jpg


top buggy is a OFNA Ultra MBX Pro.
Bottom buggy is my project OFNA Ultra MBX Pro(front wheel drive, maybe 2 speed).

later
 
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if its anything like my super nitro when i break the rear belt performance will be rather uninspiring. remeber that a 1:1 FWD car has its engine and trans sitting above the wheels for extra wieght. thats where thier all weather traction comes from. air cooled VW beetles are also great in the snow because the engine and tranny sit right above the drive wheels. your buggy has more than half its weight in the rear of the car and very little over the front wheels. I'm afraid that you will be making a fwd burnout machine thats difficult to turn under power.

not trying to put a damper on your project, just a hint about vehicle dynamics and weight distribution.
 
yea true, thanks for pointin that out. guess i forgot about that. o well i will try it ne ways and see how it goes. the tires I'm gona use are already pretty close to bald.

does anyone know what i can get just the wheel nuts?

later
 
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