Build Thread Littlemotor’s Tekno NB48 2.2 Build Thread! 😈

[CertifiedMike]

Center diff stand, brakes, etc..

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Kit hardware on the left, Tony’s 12.9 stuff on the right. Like I said-I go fishing with each new bag of goodies, match ‘em all up, then take the stuff I’m replacing, and toss it to the side.. I keep a sandwich size ziploc open, and toss all hardware, and bearings in there until the build is done, and I sort through it for a more permanent home after it’s all divvied up.. Kit parts replaced with upgrades, modified, or simply blingtastic stuff, just goes in a pile off to the side until the build is complete-then it gets the same procedure as the hardware, bearings, etc..

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This billet center diff top plate from J&T Bearing Co. is a very nice piece imo. I waited FOREVERRRRR for this thing to be released.. Tekno has hands down the best plastics of any other 1/8 vehicle I’ve ever run-from Kyosho, to Mugen, to Xray, and everything in between.. One thing you don’t want flexing EVER is your diff stand. Brakes, gear mesh, etc.. It’s a big deal, and the billet aluminum J&T plate does a better job. Plus it just look tiiiiits… Also uses bearings for the brake cams, where the kit part is just single piece of Tekno plastic. It’ll get the job done better than most, but the J&T can’t be beat for this duty IMO..

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Annnnnd wha-laaa… Pimptastical. Katt Williams called me a minute ago, and approves. Just trust me on this..

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These brakes will put you through the windshield.. No pad dragging here either.. Very nice setup. Simple, consistent, and highly effective..

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I’ll come back, and trim the excess from the linkage after I setup my transmitter, throw, deadband, bias, etc.. Believe me-I’m a stickler for that..

Kyosho what now???

 

[Littlemotor]

Well this one is moving along at a snail’s pace…

Did my best to prepare while ordering/planning aftermarket parts, as well as just simple “Lilmotah” modifications, but have been hemmed up a couple times already due to lack of very specific hardware-and having to make multiple “bail me outta my slack bullshiit” orders lol.. Doesn’t help that I’ve been managing a couple/few OTHER builds behind the scenes at the moment.. Hard copy lists only help so much lol..

Anywhooooooo…

Literally the first thing I grab when building a 1/8 Tekno.. I’ve been running the “deadband” style setup with aluminum bushings, rather than bearings for a good while now-as can be seen in every one of my other three Tekno build threads here.. Tekno’s now COME that way from the factory, but I still do mine a bit differently as you’ll see here in a bit.. First up-let’s give some brand new aluminum parts “the chop” and get prepared for assembly.. We are only working with the rear clip currently, but I’m prepping the front collars too.

As you can see-the collars are ment to insert inside the bearings for the swaybar. The pro’s, and the new kit build run them inside out. My anally retentive asss can’t do it-looks terrible imo..

I just chuck ‘em up carefully on my 2.5mm driver.

One down, three to go.. No pressure..

 

[Littlemotor]

Threw a finer sand at ‘em afterward, but we aren’t building watches, or sending this thing to the moon-so this is plenty good for the results I’m after. Also marked my brake linkage rods, removed the top half of the center diff stand so I could jerk ‘em, and give them a much needed haircut as well. I can’t stand when that linkage hangs out 3/8” over the chassis..

Much mo’ gooder…

Onto gathering upgrades, and swapping out the factory hardware for the rear clip.. These arm sleeves from T-Work’s should last a bit longer than the factory inserts. Tekno arms are HARD buddy.. Also we’ve got my Mugen 7075 chassis spacers that I run in place of the kit swaybar bearings, and now the kit plastic “deadband” bushings.. Lastly are my Titanium “flat head” droop screws from J&T Bearing Co.. Lighter, and MUCH easier on the 7075 chassis ears. You’ll wear a chassis QUICKLIKE, and be chasing your ever changing droop adjustment with standard button head 12.9 screws eating away at those aluminum ears all day long..

To the shiitpile…

Mugen chassis spacers installed in the diff case for the swaybar “deadband”. Much less deflection obviously than the now factory plastic bushings. Delrin would be the move here, but I’ve had great luck outta the Mugen aluminum spacers myself..

 

[Littlemotor]

Mmmmmm… Rod ends assembling.. Some noteworthy stuff here, but I’ll touch on it in a bit when I do the turnbuckles..

C & D block pills. I mentioned early on that even though there are copious amounts of “upgrades”, different parts, and Lilmotah modifications; I will be trying this buggy very close to the “kit setup”, or “out of the box”. I am eager to see for myself just how good of a job Tekno did with this one in particular, and can make small adjustments as I get acclimated with the car based on my track conditions, and driving. Hingepin pills installed by the book.

The Titanium flat head droop screws. Lefty-tighty LOL.. Back yer bus up.. Nuthin to it..

Just pass through, get your asss in, and throw her in reverse.

In there like swimwear..

A little body reamer action at the entrance for the new T-Work’s hingepin-suspension arm sleeves.. Like-a-glovvvvve…

 

[Littlemotor]

Buttoning up the rear swaybar with Tony’s Screws in 12.9..

C-block, and arms installed. Onto the D-block to wrap it all up.

Getting somewhere slowly, but surely..

Next bag-o-goodness..

Titanium Trunbuckles, also from T-Work’s. These guys build them for the one and only Jared Tebo & JTP.. I do eliminate the middle man.. Also more Team Tekno Option Parts… Lightened +1mm wheel hexes, and hardened drive pins.. They look soooooo sick, and are noticeably lighter in your hand.. Less 7075 aluminum, and less hardened tool steel as well.

A little universals and rear uprights action… Replaced the hardware with Tony’s, as with every new bag of trinkets, and the bearings with the Hybrid units from Avid Racing.. Of course the hexes, and Titanium… “Junk” pile on the lower right corner of the towel..

Junk bag is growing… I do love having spares/backup/tuning parts, and hardware..

Rear uprights with camber link pills, and Hybrid Avid bearings installed..

 

[Littlemotor]

A little Axle Rose goin on… peep the little shorty drive pin for the lightened hex.. That’s a STRONG MFer-tell me it ain’t..

So… There is a particular procedure to follow when assembling rod ends/pivot balls… If you look at the face of the rod ends-there’s a visible difference from one face to the other.. You can clearly see a “ring” around the opening on one side. It’s due to the production process.. Yes-you CAN install them all Willy-nilly, but the CORRECT way is to press the ball through the side with the visible ring around the orifice, as shown here..

No ring:

Visible ring:

Assembled with the ball pressed through from the visible ring side. Your rod ends will stay happy much longer this way. I used to think that was BS back in the day. Then I tried it. Absolutely legit-tried, and tested. I almost NEVER have rod ends pop off anymore.

Installed.

Simple tech tip.. Save yourself frustration, and ream JUST enough to provide a decent chamfer to the ID at the rod end entry. It’s not just less frustration, but FAR easier on the rod ends during both assembly, as well as adjustment. I RARELY ever need chapstick, or grease because of this-while everyone else always seems to..

Remember to keep your turnbuckle “witness mark”/notches to the same side of the vehicle. Makes adjustment quick, and easy because you ALWAYS know you’re turnbuckles are being adjusted the same direction which ever way the car is positioned. Manuals almost always note this, and almost everyone new to building kits fails to do it.

The new 2.2 also uses steel arm sleeves at the OUTER hingepin… Sooooo nice… Much like Snap-On tools; “there IS a difference.”..

 

[Littlemotor]

Gettin’ upRIGHT!!!

Perfect time for a break… *apparently*.. I managed to completely space the-F-out on the inner camber link screws.. I amazingly enough don’t have a single one in the “LHS” (Littlemotor’s Hobby Shop ), as I’ve done this exact same setup to every Tekno vehicle in the fleet.. You’d think that’d mean I should have extra’s, and you wouldn’t be out of your mind in that logic-but you’d still be wrong lol.. PLENTY are now on order.. I also flipped ahead through the manual for other screws I knew I’d be changing (the Tony’s bag simply replaces the factory stuff with YFS Grade 12.9 in the exact screw type, and I’m changing several from SHCS to flathead), and did inventory. I ordered a couple more bags, and found a couple bags in the LHS, so I’ll be good in a few days time when the final order arrives. The build can sit patiently until then..

This linkage being cleaned up makes me feel all warm, and fuzzy inside..

I kinda really DO wanna push shiit over, and knock the front clip out too while I’m waiting on hardware.. We’ll see how stir crazy I get this evening, or tomorrow.. I don’t generally do too well with sitting still.. I’ve also got other things to move to the bench once this one is done, sooooo….

Should be WAY further along but, I’m not stressing too much over it..

Thanks for following along, and I appreciate the interest, comments, and heckling!

 

[WickedFog]

You are one anal retentive some B let me tell you. I thought I was, but nope. I'm a slack jawed builder by comparison. If I ever get around to grabbing a Tekno, I'm gonna be burying your inbox with questions.

 

[Littlemotor]

You are one anal retentive some B let me tell you. I thought I was, but nope. I'm a slack jawed builder by comparison. If I ever get around to grabbing a Tekno, I'm gonna be burying your inbox with questions.

I’ma take that as the compliment it was intended as, ya sorry sonofabiscuiteater..

I appreciate it man, for sure. I enjoy sharing as I absolutely LOVE a good build thread myself.. -And hopefully it’ll help others at the same time. The other win is the fact that it’ll put wind in someone else’s sails, and then THEY decide to do a thread as well, and the cycle builds momentum.. Definitely helps forums stay strong, even through lull’s, or slow spots-not to mention keeps people pumped up during the winter when it can be tough to get in some much needed wheel & trigger therapy on a consistent basis..

When (not if-I do know better by now ) ya do end up with a kit, I look forward to my inbox catching fire brothaman.

 

[WickedFog]

It's the little mods you're doing along the way that are interesting, and things that will be really helpful when I grab one of their SCT's. So hell yeah, keep it coming. Though I can't help but be impatient to see your next builds. That, and the paint for this one. And I will probably be sending an SCT body your way at some point

 

[CertifiedMike]

You missed a spot!
Wow!

 

[Doom!]

I agree with @WickedFog, I've picked up some great tips from your build threads. Now I just need to remember them.

 

[Littlemotor]

It's the little mods you're doing along the way that are interesting, and things that will be really helpful when I grab one of their SCT's. So hell yeah, keep it coming. Though I can't help but be impatient to see your next builds. That, and the paint for this one. And I will probably be sending an SCT body your way at some point

Thanks bigdog! A lot of the little things I’ve acquired just from doing it forever, and they translate across to other brand as well-and not just what I’m working with. -and they definitely add up in the end; not just on the wallet side lol.. There’s a fair amount of things I do that don’t cost a penny, make it perform much better, make life easier for sure, or just make it a nicer vehicle in general. Just further reinforces why I fully believe the best “upgrade” for an RC is to sit down, and build it yourself. The vehicles being assembled in some sweatshop obviously dont see the same love lol.. Glad you’re enjoying following along with the build, and has ya looking forward to yours too-stoked to be of any assistance I can provide in that dept, and I gotcha on the lid sir! I don’t think Mon-Tech makes any SCT bodies thank god..

You missed a spot!
Wow!

Sonofabiiiiitch! It’s my old man eyeballs, I’m sure!! Thanks Holmes!

I agree with @WickedFog, I've picked up some great tips from your build threads. Now I just need to remember them.

That’s awesome to hear fella! -and don’t you worry-all ya gotta remember is my SN, so you can pull the thread(s) back up when ya need ‘em!

-really appreciate all the kind words, guys! Looking forward to my hardware showing up, and getting back on it.. Things will begin to progress pretty quickly from here on out, and start to provide some decent results..

 

[WickedFog]

Parts will be there before you know it man.

You know what? Tony just needs to send you a complete inventory for spamming his stuff on here. I just filled up a cart with screws I need to replenish, and it's like super cheap. So I'm gonna add more

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

Parts will be there before you know it man.

Not if usps has anything to do with it

 

[Littlemotor]

Parts will be there before you know it man.

You know what? Tony just needs to send you a complete inventory for spamming his stuff on here. I just filled up a cart with screws I need to replenish, and it's like super cheap. So I'm gonna add more

That’d be sunthin’, right there lolz.. Could be the Tony’s Screws Southeastern distribution hub… I could just trade out my “work” for pimp-a-licious hardware, and sleep just fine about it..

 

[Littlemotor]

Not if usps has anything to do with it

You’re not wrong… We can toss UPS in the mix as well-you wouldn’t believe the “flight path” some items of mine outta the UK have supposedly managed to take since ordering them about a week ago.. -and as with ANYthing I order from the Left Coast, all of those orders will end up-hemmed up (see what I did there?! FU Eminem) at the Greensboro hub for 48 hrs while they make supposedly 7 trips back and forth between scans prior to arriving at my local PO.. All part of the thrill of RC for me over here..

 

[Littlemotor]

Back on it… Some screws I needed in my initial grocery list got by me.. Would’ve grabbed ‘em from Tony’s, but I wanted to grab a pair of JConcepts front scoops, in case I don’t like how the RaceCraft Flock Foil does on the buggy platform.. -and I can match my paintwork with these, like I did on my Associated car..

Swapping out SHCS with flat heads, and countersunk washers. They don’t back off, and they don’t destroy my towers, and spindle carriers like SHCS do..

Clearly more clamping area, and less likely to mar, or gouge..

Rear camber links finally going in..

Xray has been doing this for a while as well, but it’s super nice for beginners whom may not have a good pair of calipers.. They are to scale. Build your camber links, and gauge them against the illustration in your manual. This will get you fairly close, and you can always fine-tune chassis setup/vehicle alignment by eye, or on your setup station, if you ball like that..

Even Steven..

Rear clip wrapped up.

 

[Littlemotor]

Papa got a brand new bag!!! Or is it badge… Bag? Wait-wut?

More control arm sleeves from T-Work’s, my previously modified Tekno option part 7075 aluminum collars, Mugen 7075 chassis spacers, Titanium droop screws from J&T, and of course-Tony’s screws..

Spare pile from this bag.. GTFO of here guy..

Y’all know the drill by now..

A & B blocks taking their meds… Gettin’ those pills poppin’..

 

[Littlemotor]

Splackin’ in the endlinks..

Getting somewhere finally..

Next up.. Helllllllllyes…

Just another look at how well done the Tekno manuals are.. Anyone can do this shiit fellas..

Anyyyyywho…. Moar option parts, and upgrades..

Bye now!!