Build Thread Littlemotor’s Tekno ET & NT48 2.0 (RE)builds thread! 😜

[Littlemotor]

Perfection.. Well worth doing it right imo..

Now this 2113 pipe is much shorter than my previous 2143, being it’s a high RPM deal.. So I need to fab up a new sprung pipe hanger, and also put a VERY specific bend in it due to how much ch shorter it is, AND they sit in onroad chassis’.. This is gonna be a tough one.. I need three hands BADLY..

Loosen up the pipe hanger stand, and remove the OG hanger from up top..

After much deliberation, this is what I managed to come up with., I shocked it up in my 1/2” DeWalt that IDGAF about it I break the chuck, and used an adjustable wrench to put the bend in it. Worked absolutely phenomenal, and I couldn’t be happier with the result. It’s EXACTLY where I needed it, and was super easy. Zero struggle.

Next debacle… The stinger is angled downward more than off-road, so of course-I need more clearance in my existing stone guard relief.. Measure, mark, chop.. Repeat, lol…

 

[Littlemotor]

Super bueno..

Finally-can secure the header to the Monster, Modified, Mountain Motor..

-annnnnnnnd here is where I shall leave you all in suspense.. I am quite a bit further along, but need to get back there and take more hoards before I can continue..

I actually need to do the same for the Associated Nitro buggy build I have going on too.. I did the same thing there if I’m not mistaken.. Just been too busy to keep my eye on the prize(s)…

 

[Littlemotor]

Alright.. back to some progress piktarzzz..

Start off with some M3 countersunk washers from Ultimate Racing.

First washer is to replace my polished unit I run at the rear chassis brace point.

Also-while I’m at it; gonna swap these two dudes out from the rear tower mount. It’s the little things-what can I really say..

Sorry for the garbage lighting due to the angle on my bench-but looks much better imo..

First of the upper tower mount washers.. These are just SHCS’s when building by the manual.. I just thought the polished broke it up a bit.. I think the blue is the move though..

Yepper-I’m diggin this much more betta..

Now to take care of the wing mount fasteners. I’m running Tony’s 12.9 SHCS’s through the mount, but wanna clean up the nuts.. The Tekno coating isn’t long for this earth if your driver sucks, so I’m swapping them out, and the two uppers will be 7075aluminum non-serrated blue Nylok’s from 1Up Racing.. I prefer to have at least two steelies for the wing mount..

Super bueno..

Now-There’s a couple things I’ve been meaning to change out after swapping up some things on my brand new NB48 2.2 buggy build. I just didn’t like the way Tekno did it, so I am doing to ALL of my trucks, what I did to my new buggy as far as the Ackerman plate/inner tie rods. Much cleaner deal, looks a TON better IMO, and functions the same, while being easier to wrench on.

The new setup goes down through the Ackerman plate, with a Nylok , serrated flange nut from Tekno on the underside.

 

[Littlemotor]

The above pictured (4) M3 steel flat washers are the setup I’m running for my bumpsteer. These simply swap over between the bottom of the Ackerman plate, and the inner tie-rod. Bumpsteer isn’t a bad thing when you understand it, and tune with it for your needs.

MUCH better, and makes far more sense imo. I’m very happy with this uber simple change from how Tekno does it by the manual.

Now the outer tie-rods. This is “just” an OG 2.0 truck, so when I swapped over to the 2.1/2.2 spindle/carrier design, I used the 2.0 shoulder bolt. I’m changing that over to the factory 2.2 setup. I simply was lacking the correct hardware to do this initially. Didn’t need a manual to tell me to.. IF your rod end pops off the pivot ball, you’re a DNF. I’ll be running a button head with an M3 washer through the pivot ball from the TOP, and a serrated Nylok flange nut underneath.

This is the wonky AF low profile shoulder bolt the 2.0 used.

And here is the new setup. I also manipulated my bumpsteer just a bit as well.

As you can see-if the rod end pops off of the pivot ball NOW, it won’t drive super killer, but it won’t be a DNF, or possibly tear up more parts because of ONE failure.

Now because of this Monster modified mountain motor, this thing is gonna be a serious handful to drive-ESPECIALLY on my low traction track. To help the rear end to stay BEHIND the front end, I’m gonna add in a bit of anti-squat, as well as some toe in. This is just me being proactive, as I’ve driven LOTS of modified .28 race engines over the years. It’s not even in the same ballpark as a race .21, and will likely also have no problem stomping my Tekin electrics either.. So clearly-this is a much needed change to the setup.

Factory zero pills, but there is actually SOME toe in, and just a bit of anti-squat. I will have about twice what the manual build gives. Should have me in the ballpark.

The new pills. Orientated to “up & in” in the C-block. The D-block is center, and down by the manual build. That’s staying put.

Remove the two rear case/D-block M4’s.

The 3rd is in the center of the D-block, itself.

Loosen up the front diff case M4’s..

Along with the center M3’s for the case..

Remove your D-block, and set aside. These pills are good, so just keep it out of the way for the time being..

 

[Littlemotor]

Like so.

Now slide your hingepins, and arms back out of the way to expose the C-block pills.

Just push them out from the front, and set aside.

You can see the difference between the zero pulls, and the new ones.

Make sure to install them “up & in” on each side, then stab your hingepins, and arms back into the C-block.

Now we’re ready for the D-block..

Like so.

Then obviously reverse of disassembly, and we are golden.

“Up & in”… -like I said; around double the manual setup. Will be a noticeable difference, and vast improvement with the apeshit motor running the show in this truck.. Again-just being proactive, as I’ve been here before, and know exactly what I’m in for..

Now to take care of my fuel tank lid pull.. It was about 3/4” too long for my liking, and I didn’t incorporate the arc/radius I wanted, so just gonna shiitcan it, and do up a proper one. Not a big deal. A couple T&B stainless tab Ty-rap’s, a length of Mugen Seiki gray fuel tubing, and a corresponding length of black, heat shrink tubing. I have plenty of ALL of this stuff.

First-chop the offending pull..

New length of fuel tubing..

Pretty self explanatory..

Heat shrink tubing roughly 1/4” longer than the fuel tubing. I prefer that it cover some of the Ty-rap at the lid, once I throw my heat gun at it..

Now we are ready to make hotness..

 

[Littlemotor]

Now for the end.. Needs a chop, and a couple clean up cuts.. This is larger than the pull Ty-rap, but with T&B’s, you can do this, and never, EVER worry about it. Also “caps off” the pull nicely. A Smaller Ty-rap head would be sad, and wimpy. That is not our “M.O.”..

Post-circumcision..

Now this is after the heat gun, and I’m simply manipulating the assembly for the desired arc/radius..

Perfect.

Sooooo much gooder… I like it.

Now something else I did when I outfitted my first truck with the later model 2.1/2.2 style spindles/carriers was to try my Associated rear inner rod ends, as it moves the mounting point outboard almost a half an inch on each side. Just wanted to see if they’d work. Well they do. I’m not a fan of Associated stuff much these days, and being the Associated buggy is a blatant ripoff/copy of the Mugen MBX8R, I am swapping over to much higher quality Mugen rod ends. I shall sleep SOOOOOO much better at night after doing this, and they even LOOK better than the Associated crap imo..

This is a PRIME example of why I say it absolutely matters on ALL injection molded rod ends of ALL manufacturers which side you install the pivot balls from. On the left is a Mugen with the molding ring side shown. The center is the associated with a JQ Racing pivot ball installed (from the correct side-which is shown in the photo), and on the right is an identical Mugen rod end with the NON-molding ring side. It’s a big deal.

Out with the old Associated, JQ Racing pivot ball into the new Mugen..

A little dab of Protek Premier Blue O-ring grease for ease of adjustment without stretching the pisss outta your rod ends each time you change camber..

 

[Littlemotor]

Back onto my OG DADDY Lunsford Titanium turnbuckle..

Placing them to where the ball centerline is exactly in the same location as the previous, Associated rod end..

Back onto the spindle carrier..

And presto.. Like it was made for it.. (and should’ve been there all along )

Check the overall for good “measure”…

Yessir…

 

[Littlemotor]

After finishing up the last of the bodywork. I like to clean up my edges, and make dead sure that all of my access holes, slots, reliefs, etc., are burr free, and smooth. ANYwhere a blade, scissors, or Dremel has been. It makes a HUGE difference, and there are MANY on a nitro body. These are also NOT marked in your body, as every vehicle is different, based upon the parts you use. The vehicle is not complete until this has been done IMHO. Why spend all this time building a quality vehicle if you’re gonna halfasss it at the very end?

Exhaust stinger notch.

Fuel fill opening, and main needle adjustment access.

Engine cooling head opening, along with a nice slot for added airflow THROUGH the body, directly to the glowplug/head button area (where it’s THE most important)..

Clearance notch for my front brake adjuster, at full throw.

Daaaammiiiiit son.

Look into the inside of the slot in the side window. That’s the main needle adjustment on the carburetor. This sees a LOT of action, so you need to be able to get to it.

Like so. This is DEAD NUTS accurate. ANYone can slap a kit together. THIS is the stuff that takes patience, and focus IMO.

 

[Littlemotor]

Last shot..

This one is now absolutely complete, and ready for me to setup the electronics, endpoints, brake bias, final chassis setup, etc..

I am SUPER stoked with how it turned out, and cannot wait to break this bad MFer in.. Gonna be an absolute MONSTER of a truggy.

 

[Littlemotor]

Alrighty then-now for the flashlight truck.. This electric is one rowdy S.O.B. Too, so don’t sleep on it..

I’ve been STUPID busy, bouncing back and forth between the (3) 1/8 trucks the past few days, along with both of my nitro buggies..

Doing a lot of the same things I just did above to the nitro truck, and to the Mrs.’s truck..

Swapping out the kit nuts for a fresh pair of black coated Tekno M3 Nylok’s on the bottom wing mounts screws, and some 7075 aluminum flanged Nylok’s from 1Up Racing for the uppers..

Re-engineering the straight up bullshiiiit Reds did to fasten this fan mount to my Tekin 2250 truggy can.. Absolutely RIDICULOUS they think this is ok, let alone FUNCTIONAL.. I’m not about to let this garbage tear up my motor can..

Tossing in a Kevlar battery strap, with STEEL d-ring..

Also doing the same mods to the outer tie-rods as I have now done to ALL of my Tekno vehicles, so that when a rod end pops off of the pivot ball, it is at least CAPTURED, and isn’t a DNF, or day ruined of any kind.

Along with doing the inners at the Ackerman plate the way Tekno should’ve done them off the rip IMO.. Plus the Lilmotah way looks soooooo much better, and is more “service friendly” to boot.

Then I’m adding in a bit of anti-squat, along with rear toe in.

Let’s start by tearing this absolute garbage design apart.

The 6mi long M3 “grade 10.9” is designed to be tightened down against an M3 set screw that is threaded into the opposing side of the pivot, thereby forcing the “jaws” of the fan mount closed around the motor can. Three guesses on exactly how well that nonsense will work..

Sources a simple, and common M3x5mm button-head 12.9 screw, and applied 248.

Run it in from the bottom just as their BS set screw does… Mine I can actually TIGHTEN against the jaw, as it has a HEAD to allow this to be achieved.

Measure the distance of threads required while the mount is closed, but not under any actual tension.. 10mm +/-.. No problem, so I want an M3x12 button-head.. This is not that hard, and does NOT need to be 6mi long either.. Morons..

Like magic-I just happen to have one.. But a set screw was definitely more ideal for this job… oh for sure..

 

[Littlemotor]

Now-while that M3x5 is curing, I’m gonna move on to what’s next on my laundry list.. By the time I’m done in about 20min, I’ll be good to install that M3x12. That’s one of MANY reasons I have used the 248 paste for the past 20+ years.. I don’t ever even THINK about waiting “24hrs” for my threadlocker to “cure”, that’s just ridiculous.

Let’s tackle the steering stuff..

Tekno, Ultimate, Tony’s, you get the idear..

Outta here with that manual build nonsense..

Yassssss… How it SHOULD have been all along..

Now for the outers.. This is a very smart maneuver as well.

Ghey wonky low profile shoulder bolt from underneath, and no safety retention setup is out. See ya dude…

Proper setup in.

 

[Littlemotor]

Straight brainiac stuff.

Locked down. Not going ANYwhere now.

Now for the wing mount nuts..

Mission accomplished. Five stars.

Swap in a blue washer for the rear chassis brace mount..

 

[Littlemotor]

Much yes.

Upper tower mount washers.. Again-from the manual-these were to be just run of the mill SHCS’s.. I just thought the polished washers would break it up a bit, but I really like how the blue washers treated the nitro truck..

Yup!!!

Time for some more anti-squat, and rear toe in.. For like the third time tonight..

 

[Littlemotor]

“In & up”. Both sides.

Just like that, playa’s…

On with the D-block, and kit “zero” pills..

Screw this whole shoot in’ match back together..

Primo. Mickey. Dammiit. PRIMO. If ya know, ya know..

This battery need some proper strappin’..

Kevlar, and steel FTMFW..

But it’s just so, looooooong…

Get to screwin’..

 

[Littlemotor]

I can dig it..

Get that bad boy Tekin Graphene LiHV back in there..

Definitely the move..

Now I can get that fan debacle un-FUBAR’d… Thanks a ton, Reds.. Sad AF..

248 with a chopped toothpick just to where the mount will be positioned in the threads, I want it ALL in the mount, and no mess.

Lock her on down for the duration..

PERFECT. “Set screw”… W-in the actual-F were they thinking?!? -no matter, handled now, and Littlemotor approved.

My Ruddog fan ain’t goin anywhere now.. GOOD.

Now all I have left is to finish up some VERY minor bodywork, just clean up anywhere a tool was used-wether it was a blade, scissors, reamer, or Dremel, and this sumbitch is ready for the dirt as well. I’ll get photos of this one and Mrs. Lilmotah’s whip tomorrow, and update both threads..

I’m stoked, and uber happy with how all these tuned out. Can’t wait to hit the dirt, but now I’m ready to hit the SACK. I didn’t even manage to get any freakin’ ice cream, as I’ve been doing these updates for hours straight between (3) vehicles, and (2) threads.. Hell-I did one vehicle yesterday, and the other two just tonight.. I’m beat up. See y'all tomorrow-errrr, later today..

 

[CertifiedMike]

I can dig it..

View attachment 230224

Get that bad boy Tekin Graphene LiHV back in there..

View attachment 230225

Definitely the move..

View attachment 230226

Now I can get that fan debacle un-FUBAR’d… Thanks a ton, Reds.. Sad AF..

248 with a chopped toothpick just to where the mount will be positioned in the threads, I want it ALL in the mount, and no mess.

View attachment 230227

Lock her on down for the duration..

View attachment 230228View attachment 230229

PERFECT. “Set screw”… W-in the actual-F were they thinking?!? -no matter, handled now, and Littlemotor approved.

View attachment 230230View attachment 230231

My Ruddog fan ain’t goin anywhere now.. GOOD.

Now all I have left is to finish up some VERY minor bodywork, just clean up anywhere a tool was used-wether it was a blade, scissors, reamer, or Dremel, and this sumbitch is ready for the dirt as well. I’ll get photos of this one and Mrs. Lilmotah’s whip tomorrow, and update both threads..

I’m stoked, and uber happy with how all these tuned out. Can’t wait to hit the dirt, but now I’m ready to hit the SACK. I didn’t even manage to get any freakin’ ice cream, as I’ve been doing these updates for hours straight between (3) vehicles, and (2) threads.. Hell-I did one vehicle yesterday, and the other two just tonight.. I’m beat up. See y'all tomorrow-errrr, later today..

You know, if you keep practicing at this, you might get good at it one day!

Crazy little details make ALL the difference out on the track!
They ALL look great!!!

 

[WickedFog]

Those battery straps are killer.

 

[Doom!]

Dang! That was a lot to digest in one sitting.

 

[Littlemotor]

You know, if you keep practicing at this, you might get good at it one day!

Crazy little details make ALL the difference out on the track!
They ALL look great!!!

I sure hope so, one day maybe I can sit at the same table as the adults.. Thanks bro-I appreciate it, for sure.

 

[Littlemotor]

Those battery straps are killer.

I dig ‘em. You can get the same for your SCT sir.