Build Thread Littlemotor’s Tekno ET & NT48 2.0 (RE)builds thread! 😜

[Doom!]

Ok, tell the truth, you've got the equivelant of a Snap On tools truck parked in your driveway, but it's filled with Techno and custom parts.

 

[WickedFog]

Ok, tell the truth, you've got the equivelant of a Snap On tools truck parked in your driveway, but it's filled with Techno and custom parts.

Pretty close guess

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ok, tell the truth, you've got the equivelant of a Snap On tools truck parked in your driveway, but it's filled with Techno and custom parts.

I said the same thing!!!
When everyone at the track is getting pits set up, the floor starts rumbling and back up beepers as a semi blocks out all the sun in the windows... in runs @Littlemotor like Randy Savage snapping into a Slim Jim!
Semi trailer filled to the roof with parts, slide outs for access to the granite workbenches inside!
Guess who's winning tonight???

 

[Littlemotor]

You guys have got me alllllllll wrong…

 

[Littlemotor]

Start by jerking the OG 2.0 diff, and Lit RC carbon fiber top plate to make room for the new NB48 2.2 setup.. “Everything must go!!!”..

It’s a high quality top plate, just can’t use it with the new beef..

2.0 diff with its super weirdo ginormous bearings.. Obviously the stands will be swapped out because of this..

Pop the NitroPro FKN-500-FST servo outta the way, and sneak the stands out from under it..

NB 48 2.2 center diff bag..

Start with the upgrades immediately.. Some of these screws from Tony’s are just what I happen to have spares of, so I didn’t need to place an order for this.. I’m fairly well covered in the fasteners dept..

Some ultra high quality bearings from Acer Racing.. Some of the best in the biz, and I’d completely forgotten all about them.. I’ll be running them almost exclusively again from here on out..

A little dab’ll do ya.. Protek Blue.. I am liking this better than my tried & true AE Green Slime I can tell ya..

CMD for the outdrives obviously.

Let’s build a diff..

 

[Littlemotor]

Cup side… I like to twist slowly as I penetrate the cup with the outdrive, and over her the ol’ in-out a few times just to evenly distribute the CMD..

Same for the spur side of things..

O-rings down..

Shims down, and onto the drive pins..

Doing 20k from Ultimate Racing, but will likely be coming back in with heavier fluid after break-in. This motor is gonna be absolutely ridiculous for this chassis, so I wanna drive it before I place an order from Ultimate, to have a better idea..

I always fill a bit PRIOR to the sun gear to fight off any excess air/bleeding..

Build the cross shafts/spiders, etc, and get the gasket ready to go..

Perfect.

Criss-cross.. Then snug em down.

Finito..

 

[Littlemotor]

New nitro buggy 2.2 stands/brakes bag..

Y'all know the deal by now.. Let’s get those upgrades in the picture.. Tony’s 12.9 fasteners throughout, along with the J&T Bearing Co. billet top plate like I just did on my recent nitro buggy build.

2.2 stands on the left, OG 2.0 on the opposite..

The new dude utilizes a locator pin, to obviously coincide with a hole in the new 2.2 chassis that I do not have.. No problem..

Bust out the redneck Bridgeport, and the cordless Dremel with a small sanding drum. Slow is smooth..

Dremel work complete, now let’s face it with my glass, and paper/cloth..

80g Facing complete. Looking good thus far.

240g donezo. On with assembly.

I did not wanna take more off, and lower the diff in the chassis. The requirement was to knock the locator out of the equation, not the best surface possible to the surrounding area. Use your head.

The opposing stand after the same surgery..

 

[Littlemotor]

Good enough for government work, and ready to install.

Like brand new money, I’m tellin’ ya.. “Would ya just look at it?!?”..

Onto the brakes.

Yessir.

Same gap errrrrywhere.. Pretty important. Don’t just run your guide screws in until they stop against the shoulder, and call it good-ya heathens..

Plop the assembled diff in with the (cleaned) rotors, and get ready with your brakes.

Like so.

Now the brake cams, and lever arms. We will mock all this up, measure, mark, and trim the excess in a bit.

No threadlocker-as I said; this is just a dry run/mock up.

J&T billet top plate, with flanged bearings for the brake cams..

Plate to upper stand retaining screws.. Tony’s, obviously..

Just tight enough to not have any slop. These are coming right back out in a few..

Toss the whole shootin’ match into the chassis, and run in the 12.9 M4x12’s.. just snug. Don’t go crazy-it’s mock up..

 

[Littlemotor]

Last one..

Now reinstall the T/B servo..

-and T/B arm..

Next bag.. Linkage. Love this part..

All those arms/horns are going straight to the trash. I ONLY run aluminum horns, and arms, so even though for plastic-the Tekno’s are the nicest I’ve come across-I will NEVER need them. Not worth giving away either, as I’ve never once heard of anyone looking for one..

Upgrades to my linkage plan via Serpent America (DeSoto Racing), and T-Work’s.. I can’t stand the Tekno stuff for this.

Now that the trash has been taken out, fasteners upgraded to Tony’s, etc, I’m gonna need some short lengths of Mugen gray fuel tubing as well.

Thread the linkage rods DRY.. take your time. These DO get hot even with slow, steady work.. You don’t wanna cook them, and have them get brittle, or melt your fresh threads..

I want the threaded portion identical between the front, and rear..

My super swanky Serpent adjusters in black..

Again-DRY, this is also mock up.

Mark for the haircut..

I marked, but in case it comes off, I’m measuring, and recording.

 

[Littlemotor]

Wrapping them up.. Dry as well.

Complete for mock up install.

Now the throttle side of things. Same deal here.

Just for my own reference. This will likely come out in the wash..

Swap out the last kit screw..

And set the completed linkages off to the side momentarily.. we have bigger fish to fry before we can proceed..

Yeahhhhhhh BUDDY. @Lostinthewoods86

Fresh from my ultra badasss engine modder..

Yeah yeah, but WHAT IS IT Lilmotah?!?

 

[Littlemotor]

Well that giant “P” on the crank case isn’t for Pontiac… Y’all know me by now I’d think based off of my other nitro builds/engine history.. THIS is one of (2) engines that set me on that course for the duration… it’s literally 20yrs old, and BRAND NEW. They are BEYOND impossible to find; but I managed to come up with one. It has a different head (all be it a welcomed, and very fitting one), and later model carb on it. Everything else is THE OG…

All this being said-Truggies are FAR lighter, and better geared today than they were 20yrs ago, and high end, race grade .21’s have these trucks just as fast (or faster) as the buggies on some tracks.. I’m just running this one around my own track, and it’s more of an “exhibition” engine/truggy kind of deal. If I had to bet-I’d say this truck will likely be the fastest thing in the fleet; including, and very specifically referring to my super nasty Tekin electrics..

The head is preferred over the OG unit, and will fit this build perfectly.. The master “Boost .28” was no slouch either, but there are some internal this one has that I’d rather have..

Allow me to introduce arguably the king singalong of nitro big block engines for the past 20yrs. -no; your LRP .32x will not even come CLOSE to touching this…

The infamous (and famous) Picco P3 Turbo 5-port Factory Team .28..

This one is fresh from my engine modder, and also rocks TKO bearings, front & rear.. Nothing has been left untouched. This thing is a MONSTER.

Gigantic 9mm carb insert..

Keeping my word, and not spilling the beans on who did the work, so I don’t risk losing my guy.. He has NO interest in doing work for the general public. Pro drivers, and very select, few “regular Joe” clientele who have already been customers of his.

 

[Littlemotor]

Added bypass holes..

Extreme lightening of the MASSIVE billet piston..

Further machining to lighten as much as possible..

Faced as well..

A metric TON of crank bore work..

Lightening the small end of the crank..

 

[Doom!]

@Littlemotor I don't know why, but I find it super satisfying to watch you sand off imperfections, and make a perfect smooth fitting part.

 

[Littlemotor]

HUGE timing changes.. THIS is where you really start making power.. The “fangs”, and “scoops” LOOK all pretty, but what most folks DON’T see, is where the real meat and ‘taters is..

Also, obviously back drilled, slugged, and filled..

A TON of work done to the head button, chamber, and burn room, that nobody can “see”.. This is also ultra important..

Custom billet/FNC’d backplate for the monster P3 .28 FT..

The crankcase work, and it is EXTENSIVE..

 

[Littlemotor]

Heavily worked over exhaust port..

SERIOUSLY worked over carb throat area..

TKO Rear bearing..

Going back together..

Italian TCR Ultra Hot Gold plug..

These have not been produced in almost 30 years, and NOBODY can find them. There are a million Picco P3 owners actively looking on a daily basis as well.. I searched, and searched… I apparently had a horseshoe up my asss, because I happened to find THE last two connecting rods in existence hangin on a parts wall at a killer little hobby shop in Canada. They were nice enough to ship the pair to me, AND cut me a smokin’ deal.. That price is CAD obviously in the pics, and I got them MUCH cheaper than that. This engine is gonna go a LONNNNNNG time.. I was actually gonna send one of these to a longtime buddy, but he decided to get a sandy vag for reasons beyond me, and well-looks like I have two for this motor now.

Onto the clutch setup, and clutch bell.,

THIS dude right here is some serious unobtanium as well.. Can’t believe I found it. This monster would be COMPLETELY undrivable with a typical 13T clutch bell.. This 15T will STILL be bonkers.. I’m grabbing up another Tekno hardened steel spur for the ET that’s a lower tooth count for after break-in.. This thing will be a MISSLE.

 

[Littlemotor]

@Littlemotor I don't know why, but I find it super satisfying to watch you sand of imperfections, and make a perfect smooth fitting part.

Thanks man, I’m not as intense with it, or do as good a job as some folks, but I do my best to do it as “right” as I can.. I’m also fairly limited in certain operations due to lack of the proper equipment, so a lot of times it looks like I’m doing brain surgery with a chainsaw, but I’m just making do with what I have, or can come up with for the best result. I appreciate the feedback, and props brother!!

 

[Littlemotor]

When you’re talking a MOD1 clutch bell, TEO teeth is a HUGE difference.. Now when I knock the spur down FOUR teeth, it’s gonna get nutty..

Tekno collet down..

Assembled flywheel..

(4) aluminum shoes (this modified mountain motor will absolutely LAUGH AT carbon shoes), and opposing, different rate/diameter springs..

Start shimming. Keep that bell off the flywheel first..

THEM shim for the crank “bolt” for just a “tick” of play..

Pulling my first two shims out, and running this single, larger diameter unit. The first two actually went INSIDE the clutch nut, as there’s a mild chamfer.

Then the inside bearing..

Then the OUTSIDE bearing, and clutch bell..

 

[Littlemotor]

NOW the remaining shims for endplay..

Just a bit too tight for my liking, so I remove a .2mm, and swap in a .1mm..

Perfection. This is ULTRA important..

Now I 248 my Titanium RC Project crank “bolt”, and locker down…

Loosen these dudes up, as it was previously setup for a .21, and typical 13T clutch bell.

Oh man…

You’re just not doing anything if you don’t bend your tools from adjusting the header in your 1/8 nitro *uggy exhaust setup to be “just right”…

This is a high RPM 1/8 onroad, and HUGE track buggy pipe.. I’ve never seen ANYONE run it in truggy as it’d soften up the bottom too much to be competitive.. I happen to have a stump puller on board now, however, and it also screams like a .21 up top, so this pipe is PERFECT for this setup.

 

[Littlemotor]

Still a bit of work yet to get it where I want.. That poor nut driver..

Lookin straight titz though from where I’m sittin’..

Nowwwww, we can get back onto the linkage because we have a carburetor we can hook up with..

Measure, mark, chop.

And finally get the Mugen fuel tubing on the chopping block..

Onto the brakes mockup.. Everything looks good, so again-measure, mark, chop. That requires disassembly from mockup.

Cut up allllll kinds of shiit..

Begin final install. Now we can use grease, and threadlocker..

Also, J&T positions their clearance pocket DEAD CENTER in the stand.. Well that’s not where the Tekno servo arm puts the linkage rods.. This is why IIIIIIIIIII measure 38.271 times before doing anything.. And I’m not a mass production outfit.. -but if I were, my top plate wouldn’t need clearance to install correctly.. -itll only ever be seen right here regardless..

 

[Littlemotor]

Enough crying——Back to assembly..

Muuuuuch mo gooder..

They APPEAR dead nuts in the center over the photo, but throughout the entire range of operation-that’s just not the case.. Maybe they ChatGPT’d their car work on this one.. -regardless, it’ll work now that I’ve worked it over..

Onto the linkage rods, and Serpent adjustment knobs..

Some throttle rod action..

Yeahhhhh, buddy…

Rods first..

Plastic locators..

Mugen fuel tubing..

T-Work’s collars, and ready to rock..