Let's talk about turnbuckles

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Alan81

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So tonight I was showing off my racing machine (which my wife affectionately calls a toy) to my dad, and it got a little squirrelly and did a cartwheel in the grass. It ripped the threads out of one of the rear plastic rod ends. I had suspected that it was possibly partly stripped when I was trying to adjust it, but now i'm certain that it is. :whhooo:

Since the rod end is busted, and the threads on the turnbuckle look horrid all rusty and dingy, I figure I might as well upgrade them.

I see that metal rod ends are available, but is it worth it to use metal ends? That seems like it may just send the force of a crash somewhere else, either the rear bulkhead, shock tower, or the hub carriers.

Am I better off to just buy an upgraded aluminum turnbuckle with plastic rod ends and maybe some spare ends as well?

Thanks in advance for your consideration in this matter.

:first_place:
 
Even with the titanium turnbuckles I use, I use the nylon ends. It gives you an inexpensive point of failure.
 
Even with the titanium turnbuckles I use, I use the nylon ends. It gives you an inexpensive point of failure.

I didn't know I could get titanium!!! :D

Is the durability worth the extra cost for backyard bashing?
 
I switched over to the E-Rustler arms (RPM) and VXL turnbuckles, it gives a slightly wider stance and the VXL turnbuckles are much thicker. If you've got the cash though, I've read that Lunsford's turnbuckles are the best around.
 
I use the Lunsford Titaniums on my old RC-18t
 
I'm down for some turnbuckle talk. ;-)

I'll preface it by stating I run only stock, and must be lucky as I've never had an issue...but I know it can be common. I would definitelty stick with nylon. I do change them out every gallon or so...they are a maintenance, item.

I know lot of people running Lunsford, but titanium is used primarily to decrease the weight of the vehicle, and unsure who how much more durable they are. Just a thought.
 
Go with titanium. Heck of a lot more durable and lighter.


Sent from my Pip Boy-3000
 
Since the entire kit from Lunsford is so expensive, maybe I'll just do the rears for now with a bag of new ends. I'm almost thinking that the ends on the rear should be longer, because there isn't a lot of thread engagement. Perhaps that it's why she stripped?
 
I use to use Lunsford Ti toe links/turnbuckles’. Over the years I’ve come to the conclusion that unless you want to save a little weight (only slightly less weight), the stock steel toe links and plastic rod ends are usually the best bet.

I’ve bent/broken many more Ti toe links than stock steel toe links. Plastic rod ends are a maintenance item, keep a supply on hand and replace when needed.
 
I use to use Lunsford Ti toe links/turnbuckles’. Over the years I’ve come to the conclusion that unless you want to save a little weight (only slightly less weight), the stock steel toe links and plastic rod ends are usually the best bet.

I’ve bent/broken many more Ti toe links than stock steel toe links. Plastic rod ends are a maintenance item, keep a supply on hand and replace when needed.

10-4

In that case, maybe a trip to the wire wheel will shine my turnbuckles up a bit. :)

This is getting cheaper and cheaper :hehe:
 
I just came up with a question....

Are the rod ends threaded or do the turnbuckles cut their own threads as you install the ends on them?

I was looking at the exploded diagram, and the nitro rustler uses the same end on either side of the turnbuckle which wouldn't work in theory because one of them should be reverse thread.
 
10-4

In that case, maybe a trip to the wire wheel will shine my turnbuckles up a bit. :)

This is getting cheaper and cheaper :hehe:

The stock ones on the NR are crap, they're thin and the plastic ends break too easy. After going to the VXL ones, I haven't broken one and when I do, I'll get the RPM rod ends.

I just came up with a question....

Are the rod ends threaded or do the turnbuckles cut their own threads as you install the ends on them?

I was looking at the exploded diagram, and the nitro rustler uses the same end on either side of the turnbuckle which wouldn't work in theory because one of them should be reverse thread.

No, they are blank and the rod cuts the threads.
 
The stock ones on the NR are crap, they're thin and the plastic ends break too easy. After going to the VXL ones, I haven't broken one and when I do, I'll get the RPM rod ends.



No, they are blank and the rod cuts the threads.

In that case, i'm just going to go ahead and get the rpm ends right now.

:D

Thanks all.
 
In that case, i'm just going to go ahead and get the rpm ends right now.

:D

Thanks all.

I'm pretty sure the RPM ends won't work on the NR turnbuckles, the stock ones are too thin.
 
I'm pretty sure the RPM ends won't work on the NR turnbuckles, the stock ones are too thin.

I see what you're saying now. I need to get the VXL turnbuckles to use the RPM ends?

Can I put the VXL turnbuckles on without changing anything else?
 
My turnbuckles in the rear are 54mm.

The closest I can get is 49mm or 58mm.

This is the 58mm http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info.php?products_id=8231

Will that work or am I going to get screwed up with the + or - ~3/16" ? I would think longer is better, more thread engagement, but maybe i'm thinking backwards here.
 
I see what you're saying now. I need to get the VXL turnbuckles to use the RPM ends?

Can I put the VXL turnbuckles on without changing anything else?

I'm not sure, when I switched to the VXL turnbuckles, I also switched to the longer E-Rusty arms.

Check the chop shops on eBay, you can get the full set for pretty cheap.
 
So I just looked at an exploded view of a nitro jato rear end (that's what those turnbuckles are off of) They still attach at both ends with a 3mm screw. With that in mind, the mounting is exactly the same.
Also, the rod ends for the jato and the VXL rustler are the exact same part. :)

The only issue that remains is the length. I can't adjust my turnbuckles out much further without coming completely out of the ends, so I really am doubting that the extra 3/16 of an inch is going to hurt anything. Again, more thread engagement seems better, so if anything it should be helping me some.

What do you think? Safe bet? Guinea pig time? :D
 
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That was quick! I got the turnbuckles in tonight. They're pretty close, but I have them screwed all the way down to their shortest setting, so I don't have room to increase the negative camber. I could easily take another 1/8" off of each end which would give me some adjustability, but I think they are probably ok where they are at. Once I get the new shocks on i'll have a better idea of how the truck is going to sit.

What's odd to me is that my rustler turnbuckles had almost no thread engagement and they are 54mm, and these are 58mm and have bottomed out in the ends. Anyway, so far so good, and i'm a lot happier with the way these look. I bet they will take a lot of abuse.

:D
 
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