Kyosho Inferno Neo stripped out spur gear today it happened.

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newnitro2020

Gone - bye bye.
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Was doing half throttle and once in a while full Throttle. Engine spur gear strip during break in process.


Has anybody had an issue with these Kyosho Neo buggies? I don't have no money to fix this spur gear it will take me about a week or three to get one. I'm broke. Now I'm completely shot in a way that I can't finish up this break-in procedure.

 
Was doing half throttle and once in a while full Throttle. Engine spur gear strip during break in process.


Has anybody had an issue with these Kyosho Neo buggies? I don't have no money to fix this spur gear it will take me about a week or three to get one. I'm broke. Now I'm completely shot in a way that I can't finish up this break-in procedure.

 

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Here are some replacement suggestions if you have the same problem yourself.


X Spede Kyosho MP6, 7.5,777 light weight Steel 46T Spur MP777 SMPSF246
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202881302826?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


Fioroni Kyosho Center Torsen Diff with 46T Spur Gear for MP777 ST-MP7/C
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153497027067?hash=item23bd22c1fb:g:S5EAAOSwxzBc4~FF



If those things are too expensive for your pocket or wallet then you can get the standard spur gear again.

Kyosho Spur Gear(46T) - KYOIF148

https://www.ebay.com/itm/361442521805?epid=1201842217&hash=item5427a732cd:g:lyMAAOSwuYVWouD1




I hope this all helps anybody here is a video on how to disassemble and reinstall your replacement spur gear. Good luck!

 
The lash not set right. Kinda like ring and pinion
 
Gear ⚙️ lash, or back lash in gears need to be set properly or you will burn up gears
 
Gear ⚙️ lash, or back lash in gears need to be set properly or you will burn up gears
how do you do that and this is new to me as far as this information so I'm going to be asking questions cuz I'm
 
Some people use a pack matches paper to gap the gearing set. Real cars feeler gauge to set your lash. I blew up a lot of rear end in real buggies.
 
I would advise against using steel spurs too. It covers up other problems you have most of the time instead of getting down to the root of why the plastic one is stripping.
 
I would advise against using steel spurs too. It covers up other problems you have most of the time instead of getting down to the root of why the plastic one is stripping.
I already purchased one so at the cheapest one was $22. It's a light steel spur gear and it has the same teeth as the original. So I bought that yesterday
 
I would advise against using steel spurs too. It covers up other problems you have most of the time instead of getting down to the root of why the plastic one is stripping.
So what could have been other causes of that things tripping out the way it did? I don't know if a rock or something with hidden I mean we're talkin about off road buggy.

I mean it just I don't understand it. Do you think the neutral brakes have anything to do with it I mean wasn't tight or nothing.
 
The last time I had a kit that kept stripping the spur gear every 5-10 minutes I had to take the entire kit apart including the 2 speed transmission and check all the moving parts. In my case it turned out to be a couple of bearings in the transmission that were old and creating extra drag in the driveline. That made my clutch have to spin faster than normal to push the kit which was making the clutchbell heat up and melting the spur gear. I dont know how old your kit is. I know the engines new cuz you're breaking it in but is the kit new or older? You may need to start tearing apart the driveline from the motor to the tires and inspect everything especially the bearings. Otherwise Id consider taking it to a local hobby shop and having them take a look at it. Maybe something easy for them to spot in person.
 
The last time I had a kit that kept stripping the spur gear every 5-10 minutes I had to take the entire kit apart including the 2 speed transmission and check all the moving parts. In my case it turned out to be a couple of bearings in the transmission that were old and creating extra drag in the driveline. That made my clutch have to spin faster than normal to push the kit which was making the clutchbell heat up and melting the spur gear. I dont know how old your kit is. I know the engines new cuz you're breaking it in but is the kit new or older? You may need to start tearing apart the driveline from the motor to the tires and inspect everything especially the bearings. Otherwise Id consider taking it to a local hobby shop and having them take a look at it. Maybe something easy for them to spot in person.
i know nowadays for buggy platforms with center diffs its pretty standard/common to see steel spur gears, don't know if this is partially due to the racing scene where a stripped spur gear can make or break a race so that carried over to their RTR versions or what.
typically i really advise against steel spur gears, but most of my experience has been with RCs with a slipper assembly, and those seem to last quite well with plastic. but for 1/8 buggy platforms i am uncertain to recommend against it as much as i am with vehicles with slippers. slightly curious if center diffs are more strenuous on spur gears than slippers or if mostly like above was more geared (don't mine the pun) for racing purposes.
 
i know nowadays for buggy platforms with center diffs its pretty standard/common to see steel spur gears, don't know if this is partially due to the racing scene where a stripped spur gear can make or break a race so that carried over to their RTR versions or what.
typically i really advise against steel spur gears, but most of my experience has been with RCs with a slipper assembly, and those seem to last quite well with plastic. but for 1/8 buggy platforms i am uncertain to recommend against it as much as i am with vehicles with slippers. slightly curious if center diffs are more strenuous on spur gears than slippers or if mostly like above was more geared (don't mine the pun) for racing purposes.
A center diff is more robust than a transmission so theres less that can go wrong with it but I still wouldnt run steel spurs. I think of a plastic spur kind of like one of those radiation warning patches that changes color when you're exposed to a certain amount of radiation. When I strip a plastic spur it tells me there might be something wrong with my kit, especially in the drive line. If I strip two then I know i have a problem and its time to start doing a complete tear down.

Now racing might be a different story. I think you're probably right in that the racers would rather risk a little extra wear and tear or even damage than strip a spur.
 
A center diff is more robust than a transmission so theres less that can go wrong with it but I still wouldnt run steel spurs. I think of a plastic spur kind of like one of those radiation warning patches that changes color when you're exposed to a certain amount of radiation. When I strip a plastic spur it tells me there might be something wrong with my kit, especially in the drive line. If I strip two then I know i have a problem and its time to start doing a complete tear down.

Now racing might be a different story. I think you're probably right in that the racers would rather risk a little extra wear and tear or even damage than strip a spur.
oh yeah completely and 100% agree, in most cases id advise against an "upgrade steel spur gear" because of all the wear and tear it can cause and usually the issue is caused by a problem elsewhere especially if it happens more than once. a cheap spur gear is much cheaper and easier to replace than driveshafts, or diff internals, etc. but in a scenario where mostly any current RC in its class is already running steel spur gear, i just don't don't know, havent had any negative experience running steel in similar (1/8 buggy platform) that came stock with steel, i am pretty particular in checkign rolling resistance and mesh often though.
 
oh yeah completely and 100% agree, in most cases id advise against an "upgrade steel spur gear" because of all the wear and tear it can cause and usually the issue is caused by a problem elsewhere especially if it happens more than once. a cheap spur gear is much cheaper and easier to replace than driveshafts, or diff internals, etc. but in a scenario where mostly any current RC in its class is already running steel spur gear, i just don't don't know, havent had any negative experience running steel in similar (1/8 buggy platform) that came stock with steel, i am pretty particular in checkign rolling resistance and mesh often though.
If it came stock with a steel spur then the replacements are probably all steel anyway. Its really just whatever your preference is anyway. Id hop up every single piece in all of my kits to 7075 aluminum if I could with the exception of the spur, a-arms, and I feel like theres one other piece that should imho never be metal but if there is I can't remember what it is lol
 
I would advise against using steel spurs too. It covers up other problems you have most of the time instead of getting down to the root of why the plastic one is stripping.
Well I'll keep your advisement in mine but so far with this new spur gear on I haven't had no issues. They all went away. But if I were to have an issue I probably would remove it. But the only reason why I chose steel was because someone said that a scales normally they come with steel Spur Gears. But that came from a video I watched on YouTube.

As far as finding a hobby shop it was easy now now it's hard. Where I live it's not much. If you find a hobby shop around here and it's either train sets or all electric stuff. There was one shop in Cherry Hill but they closed their doors in 2017. Otherwise I probably wouldn't be using the internet as much as I had.



I Savage X 4.6 ready to run Back in 2017. I stripped out 7 or 10 Spur Gears to the point where I sold it and bought another Savage X. Most of the time it be between every five to ten minutes and once in awhile every 15 to 20 minutes. It was ridiculous. how could something that you check the gear Mash and then in spite of all that work destroyed.


That's why I'm not going to run my Savage my replacement one until I get done with this car as far as just learning from it. Because I put in too much money on my Savage. As a beginner of nitro I think it'd be well worth the wait.
 
oh yeah completely and 100% agree, in most cases id advise against an "upgrade steel spur gear" because of all the wear and tear it can cause and usually the issue is caused by a problem elsewhere especially if it happens more than once. a cheap spur gear is much cheaper and easier to replace than driveshafts, or diff internals, etc. but in a scenario where mostly any current RC in its class is already running steel spur gear, i just don't don't know, havent had any negative experience running steel in similar (1/8 buggy platform) that came stock with steel, i am pretty particular in checkign rolling resistance and mesh often though.
Yeah I'm pretty particular that too I spent maybe about 10 to 20 minutes sometimes checking the resistance as far as rolling. And I do the same with brakes making sure that nothing goes out of whack. So when you were saying that normally 1/8 scale has steel spur gear you was talking about it turns the racing class in the kits that include just exclusively Steel. But it is an option though if you have an model that didn't come with a steel spur gear. However I haven't had any negative experiences myself. Surprisingly it's an aftermarket spur gear it's not a Kyosho one cuz they didn't have it it was out of stock.
 
here's a new video I did a few weeks ago breaking it in on partial throttle

 
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