It's an awesome buggy. The best purchase I've made. I was considering an Ofna hyper 7 PCR rtr or a pro but heard about regular plastic parts breakage problems with them and to a lesser degree the Mugens also. I owned a savage and still a MGT and they break in one form or another. Driveline on the savage and plastic on the MGT and both needed ironning out. The K3 is all setup from the factory fast and super durable. In two months I haven't broken one piece yet and I race on a rough rutted jump filled track. I've hit a tree 8 feet off the ground from a 3 foot jump more than once!
Things to do:
Half of the screws are titanum, they're awesome super strong with no breakage or bending. However, the other ones are cheap and depending on where they are they should be replaced by stainless steel or even better grade 3+ steel screws because they will bend or break. The screws are the ones in the steering linkage. The center link and the both sides of the rod ends. The chassis brace at the chassis. The 2 - 4mm machine screws over/under the front metal hubs come out readily. Red lok-tite is too much instead I used elmers steel epoxy inplace of the blue which holds much better but isn't permanent like red lok-tite. Make sure you put some goop/shoe goo on the e-clips at the lower susp. arm hub carrier hinge pin else you'll be loosing the e-clips all the time and the pins will groove the inner dia. of the wheel. This was my first buggy so I was pretty green assembling it and mistakenly put the lsd diff in the back so the handling was all messed up. It drove like a rwd with the back end hanging out all the time until I finally figered it out. Also being new I was too conservative with the blue lok-tite and didn't use solvent to clean the metal metal contacts and lost a steering pin. Yuichi Kanai has his set-up for the K3 on the Kyosho site. It's a good point to start with. It's only slightly different from the manual. I run trinity 40 front/ 35 rear shock oil. Redline shock proof synthetic automotive diff fluid in the lsd, 7000 kyosho Si diff oil center, and 2000 kyosho si diff oilrear.
The instructions are excellent except after you have it all together and about to put the wheel/tires on it tells you to put shimms between the wheel hexes and the outer bearing. Why not include it in when assmbeling the hub the first time?.
