Just got my engine re-pinched...

[olds97_lss]

here is a litte input since i am being referred to, if it was overpinched the first thing i would have done is email osrocket and he could relieve it the same as ray!!!!!

the pull start RG engines are one of the harder to set for the pinch because there is very little pinch to begin with and all the guys that i do like them extra tight so they last longer, yes you may have to replace the 12.00 rod, but if it is in need of a pinch the rod is questionable anyway,

also the squeezer ring is garbage as anyone will tell you it makes them out of round, you may as well trash them after that,

i started this 6 years ago approx. 2 1/2 years before ray came up with the arbor press and slug deal, and i did many for him before that, and i do it on a cnc controlled machine which is highly accurate, but most important is my service is perfect and all guys will tell you that from experience, And when we attend the big races (200 plus entries) matt(my son) usually always makes the A main in 1/8 buggy expert and also 1/8 unlimited truggy, running O.S. engines that have been pinched and polished , not modified. Again you will never hear that i have not taken care of any of my customers all they have to do is ask, thanks johnb (osrocket)
email is [email protected]

First off, I apologize for anything I stirred up.

I figured it was normal as it was my first pinch job. I don't doubt your ability or your work. I can vouch that the pinch is tight. I've just never had to deal with that tight of an engine before. It was a tough learning experience. All the info I found was basically to use a starter box... the reason I got it re-pinched was due to saving money. Buying a starter box just wasn't worth it.

I think it's going to work out ok. I ran it this weekend in my buggy and it has a lot of snap now. I've run about 1/2 gallon through it since I started this thread. It still gets stuck at the top and I have to rotate the flywheel with channel locks, but as long as I start on the downstroke, it pulls over and starts just fine.

Next time I'll ask before I beat myself to death trying to "make" it work. I just figured for $20, you wouldn't really want to be bothered with it. I mean, you pinched it, tighter than it was when it was new. What more could I ask?

Again, I apoligize for any harsh feelings.

Thanks.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

Do you do Sirio .27's? If mine goes out of pinch, new P/S sets are expensive as hell!!!!

 

[Buncrana]

I don't think he had any harsh feelings Olds. He came by to offer some help.

 

[osrocket]

yes no harsh feelings at all, and i encourage guys to mail me if any problems occur, here is a copy of the info sheet that goes out with all of them, and when they are snug like that you can use a heat gun on the block right where the sleeve is not on top of the head, and hold it there until the head reading is 175 area and they start alot easier, the pull starts usually start a little harder when pinched, but if you don't get them somewhat snug they don't last. here is the help sheet that i send out, thanks jb, and yes (rc10gt) i can do the sirio .27's

PISTON SLEEVE HELP SHEET

1) Make sure that piston is in correctly
2) Lube with after run oil during assembly
3) Inspect all o-rings and carefully reset head and tighten in crossing pattern
4) Richen bottom end and top end mixture screws ¼ turn each
5) Some pistons in brand new (especially italian) engines are very tight also and you may have to hook up a cordless drill and socket to cycle engine over while lubing periodically to run in, before attempting to start with box.
6) If the engine is really tight use a heat gun around the cylinder area on the
side of the block, not the top, and heat until the head reaches 175 degrees
Then attempt to start, all of the above items will make it easier for you..
7) (Most important) do not hesitate to email me for assistance if needed, and
be patient, it will be well worth the effort.

8) Also keep a close eye on your connecting rod, because if the engine has ran long enough to loosen the sleeve, there is a very good chance the rod
Is in need of replacement, I always suggest that after breaking the engine back in you inspect the rod and replace if necessary.





JOHN BOHLAND
EMAIL : [email protected]

 

[ZANDOR]

WoW osrocket...is in our neck of the woods..
Man I have herd great thing about you I hope you will stick around here.
Lots of people talk about the work that you do All good!
Lots of referels from this site to you..
Keep up the great work
ZANDOR

 

[SIRMAXXALOT]

hey osrocket, do you do 2.5 Traxxas motors? I have two to do-I might run one for a while more but the other I think needs it real soon.. do you have your own web sight?

please email me at [email protected] with prices,address to ship to, and any other info you can give me..thank you

 

[osrocket]

sir maxx alot, i sent the info sheet to you, it has all the info you were asking about, and yes i do alot of the 2.5 tmaxx engines, thanks jb

 

[Tarant]

Cool Osrocket is here, You do a great job.

After I got my engine pinched by you it was a bit tight I found that if i take the piston and sleeve out and by hand push in and pull out the piston a few times (with oil of course) I was able to put it in to my engine and it was a bit looser and started and would not stick as bad. just my

 

[Buncrana]

Hey John, how can you tell if the con rod needs replacing?

 

[bigmo]

1st Welcome.......

2nd not trying to stir stuff or hurt feelings was just posting my opinion

the engines that i where refering to that ruined rods where Novarossi P5

and they replaced the rods, heated the engines,and even tried the drill all to no avail on either 1 of the p5s

anyway like i said just posting my opinion .....

and again Welcome

 

[rayaracing]

From RayA

Of course I will respond to this thread for the same reason John has with my name being referenced to here.

First, John (Osrocket) had approximately 4 years ago resized a "few" piston and sleeve sets for me...."Three"...."Not many." One I liked. The Second required attention to slightly damaged surface finish conditions that which was not part of his process, resulted the engine did not run properly fallowing the resizing, therefore was an unsuccessful service. I did get a disclaimer explaining his process works only if P&S set has no pitting and scaring. The "Third" I had to return ship back for reworking as the fit was much looser / inconsistent to the (2) sets previous serviced, and no there was not a problem with John standing behind his work. I only wish to set the record streight between his statement "many" and the reality "Three" set service history.

Next, I will respond to the "press & slug deal" comment made by John. There are no slugs in my tooling package. These profiled pins (Forming Die Guides) aid with the total exact size internal control and accuracy, per my tooling design. This should be obvious by looking at pictures & videos provided by Jim R , my right hand man, and the guy that makes it possible for everyone and anyone to view what we do at RayAracing. Jim has done a great job with our website I think....No need to miss read things.

With my years experience as a tool and die maker "good tooling" with "good application" is the method I found that Accurately reforms (resizes) a R/C nitro engine sleeve cylinder establishing a new designed fit in most all cases is due piston wear. The prep work I do with cleaning, deburing sharp edges, and polishing of every piston & sleeve set received is an advantage to my adjusting fit with having clean surfaces to work with. In addition, This aids to sealing capabilities of your reconditioned piston and sleeve set with improved surface finish condition. Last, I have no need to confinsate for build up on cylinder wall and piston surface resulting additional unnessisary resistance on the box or pull start.

Finaly, I listened to my customer feedback doing my best to satisfy their needs with the quality work they send me and respecting the preferences they request. I got a group of Hong Kong racers that send me large group packages with "Light Tightness" requested of every set, every order. I get medium tightness requests from the ballance of customers....Nobody asks for "Tight". It seems that my Light and medium tightness resizing work last a good bit.


RayA

 

[bigmo]

Welcome Ray

 

[osrocket1]

buncrana, check your rod for out of roundness on the bushings especially the lower one, and a large part of the time the crank pin will be wore also, there are tolerable limits on both, one thing that you must also check is that the lower bushing is not loose and able to spin that will throw a rod in a heartbeat, if rods are not available you can have a oversized bushing made up and then reamed, another advantage to that is if your crank is undersized .001 to .002 you can fit it to that and save a new crank purchase. if you have any other questions or i can help, mail me at: [email protected]

thanks jb

 

[biggy]

I have had several p/s sets resized by ray, and one fixed that was too tight..i bought it off of e-bay and the person said it was pinched by osrocket.
No problem, i send it to ray and it's now on it's 4th gallon (an os RG non pull). The complete service that i receive from Ray is outstanding, I have never had any dealings with Osrocket so i cannot and will not make a judgement on his service.
But the overall customer service i have received from Ray is top notch to say the least. I have sent him some FUBAR piston/sleeves before and when I get them back, they are like new. I guess it's all in what you like, but for me I am a return customer for Ray.
He has even done rush job's for me to ensure that i would be able to race on the weekend. Sent it out on monday, got it back on thursday afternoon, a super quick turnaround from tennessee to new york.
Not meaning to stir the pot, but just offering my experience from the great service i have gotten from Ray.

 

[osrocket1]

we have to really watch what is going on in the resizing of sleeves, it is not that hard to do, i am just proud of the speed and accuracy(repeatability) of the cnc controlled machine that i use and there has been so many guys trying to copy what i started 6 years ago and messing them up, that when i hear that someone bought one off of ebay and it states that I or someone else resized it to tight, it could be one of the squeezer rings or anyone else for that matter, the fact is that if anyone ever mails me about there sleeve being snug, i would sure loosen it for them no charge for shipping or the job done, and turn them around asap.
i will soon be starting a web site up, i just keep so busy with return customers that i haven't found a need for that, i just do it in my spare time to help guys out, thanks jb
[email protected]

 

[biggy]

You are correct, that piston/sleeve that I got (it was in a motor, not just the piston/sleeve) from e-bay may have been "resized" by one of the clamp tools. I really dont know, i can only go on what the seller told me.
This whole thing is like the chevy vs ford vs dodge drama..i have no doubt that you do quality work, but my preference is with Ray.

 

[osrocket1]

check this pit bike out<<< http://www.alvertano.com/malossi_scootx.html
for all us more power and speed freaks< lol, i bought one of these scooters new (yamaha zuma) 49cc's totally street legal with a top speed approx 40mph on a downgrade and put 41 miles on it ripped the engine down, converted it to the 70cc kit, tecnigas expansion/carbon fiber pipe, jetted the carb, changed variator weights and installed a adjustable rear clutch, and spring, it now goes 65mph was riding beside my sons ducati 916, now thats a pair of bikes, i tell him guys are checking out the scooter and i think he knows better, the 916 is awesome, jb really this is a pic of the one i got for a pit bike since i had the two back surgeries it makes it easier to get around at big tracks when we have to put the trailer far away from the drivers stand.
http://www.yamaha-motorcycles.org/Zuma.php

 

[OldRCman]

I've had both of these gentlemen pinch my sleeves about 2-3 years ago. I used OS first. His pinches seemed to be real tight at first and i didn't see any more longivity then with a new sleeve. What i did notice was a little more power. it just seems to me that with a tight pinch, the piston will wear out faster before it would have time to mate to the sleeve to create a nice even seal for compression.
I then found RayAracing and sent some to him. His pinches weren't as tight. I found that it would turn over rather easy but, still had a pinch. What did impress me was how many gallons of fuel i got out of it.
I do remember this, I had asked OS how he was pinching the sleeves. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't looking to copy it, i'm just the type of person that has interest in how things work. Anyways, he wouldn't tell me. I then asked RayA and he sent me a lengthy e mail describing how he was doing it and included pics. Seems to me RayAracing is more then willing to help out the hobbyist/racer by sharing his findings with all of us while some tend to horrd them to them selfs. In my opinion,which doesn't really amount to anything online, RayAracing is who will do mine.

 

[olds97_lss]

I created this thread to ask what to do with an overly tight engine as I've never had the $ to spend on a high end engine. Then it turned into this mess.

Unless the Mod's see fit to do otherwise, this thread is closed.

Thank you for the input.