Just bought a RC10b6.3D

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These 2WD buggy’s are really fun. I love a challenge and theses are it. Super light limited traction and fast. I just try to focus on the driving and ignore everything around.
 
What a blast to race these buggies. I am so out of my league. But my wife says they have been driving these things for years and are you have three races. The top guy changed his trans to the lay down and moved the battery back. I figured out how to do that and I removed the waterfall brace and made a strut. But while reading the manual it says the optional 3 gear stand up is best for loose dirt. Well I have loose dirt! That’s for sure. So it’s 25 dollars for the case and idler gear. Learning to drive is really what I need. I finished in fifth place in the 17.5 buggy class A Main
 

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I have moved into the points race with my 2WD buggy landing in 4th place. I moved the shocks to the back and this got me a 60/40 weight distribution.
Theses scales are odd. I had 60/40 then I spent time yesterday and it was 59/41. It was 60/40 before I moved everything back so I put it all back the way it was and it was 58/42. Now I have moved everything back and removed the 13 g weight and it was 59/41. Now that I moved the shocks it’s back to 60/40. In testing I tried to get the weight numbers even and it was very difficult. I measured the distance of the spring collars and made them even to .010 and the weight comes out very close.
 

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O boy
The 2WD 10th scale electric buggy has to be the most sophisticated thing I have ever worked with. I am a stickler for the set up sheet. And since I have no experience building or driving it’s a good place to start. Now that I have three races and a couple hours of practice I am looking into tuning for my track. This is not a rabbit hole. This is a mine shaft. As soon as I started reading I found out the set up sheet that comes with the manual is just like it says a good starting point, but everything is set to neutral. You get almost everything you need with the kit to tune. I am guessing 200 different tuning options if you don’t include tires and shock oil. And tires and shock oil is the most critical thing.

I have to start from scratch and go at this with knowing the track. It’s clay dirt and it develops a hard line with loose dirt on the edges. The turns are even between half the track it turning on power the other half is turning off power.
The jumps are both steep and shallow and there is one triple I’m better off doing the double.

https://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb6.1/

I found this web page with a wealth of information including other peoples set up sheets. They list the set up sheets according to the track surface. Plus lots of information.

I ordered a stand up transmission case and I just need to figure out what configuration I think will work and go out and test. Next race is the 19th.

I collected enough data to get back to the original set up if I make things worse. I found this sheet on the web page for my exact conditions and it’s a lot different than what I had. And it makes sense to me the changes is has. Need to order green springs.
 

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So after changing everything I ended up with the 60/40 weight distribution but it’s 10 grams lighter and the shocks are mounted in front of the control arms. Besides the axle height change I also added a lot of rear toe. I am really excited to burn some laps Saturday.
 

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I got over to the track tonight just to make some quick laps and check my changes. It takes a couple laps to get warmed up. The track had a couple puddles and was damp. The car felt really good and after a couple laps I was able to make some pretty good laps. I had made a number of laps when suddenly it stopped. Rolled to a stop and I had to rescue it. The fan was not running and the ESC was flashing thermal shutdown. So that was great to find today rather than during the race. I’ll be getting two new fans tomorrow.

The changes made the car feel better. I was able to hit full throttle in the straight. And the jumps and landing all felt very solid. Just before the ESC shut off I discovered I was letting off to much in tight turns. The drag brake is set to 60-70 % and I hade to get used to that . On the jumps I just let off and it points the nose down at the landing ramp. But if I let off in a turn it spins or stops .I was just getting the hang of keeping some throttle in the turn when it quit. And I found the inside of the rear wheels packed with mud.
 
The changes to the car are unbelievable. I could not drive in a straight line and give it any throttle without it spinning out. Now it will balloon the tires in a straight line. It tosses into a corner and carves around the turn. Stay on it and if I need more turn I just let up a tiny little bit and it just turns. I was getting cocky and blowing clouds of dust out of turn just for fun. I can’t wait to race on Sunday.
 
Sundays race was fantastic. I know I’m having a good race when I can’t blink my eyes at the end of the heat. The races were crazy with six cars and really good drivers. I am really out classes. But avoiding crashes and staying clean is good enough for fourth place in the qualifiers but at the end of the day I’m the slowest lap times. The car is totally dialed in. Now I have to get a handle on it. I’m clean and consistent but not fast. And my competition is screaming fast.
 
Second round of qualifying is complete. Dropped to fifth on the buggy’s because of a very unfortunate crash in 4wD and when the marshal put me on the track I was pointed in a bad direction as soon as I went forward I was pushed into a gap in the track. The marshal did not see me. Still got fifth place. And I finished second in the 1/10 scale short corse.

Now on the the mains
 
I decided to rebuild my B6.3D and set it up for indoor carpet racing. The recommended class is 21.5 and I am happy with the slower car to get used to carpet.
The biggest difference is the rear diff has to be changed to a gear diff. The rest is a bunch of tuning options. The carpet set up changes the shock pistons and oil as well as the springs.
There are numerous suspension tweets involved. And I made up a set up sheet and built it up from there.

Also the trans goes from a layback to a lay down and the weight bias moves forward.

I also found after five months of dirt racing the bearings are shot and the buggy is a little rough. I will be running it pretty much constantly for the next six months. So I upgraded a bunch of parts including a metal diff. Metal idler gears and ceramic bearings. The drivetrain spins like a Swiss watch.
I got a tekin 21.5 combo with a RXpro ESC and a Protec 160 servo.

The going bananas tires are stock in the rear and 72mm up front and the ride height is about 16mm.

It came in 20 grams lighter with a lot more metal parts including a brass bulkhead and metal electrical tray.

First race is October 8 .

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