Just bought a RC10b6.3D

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Iowa crawler

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I am just getting started track racing. I tried last year and build a great Techno SCT410.3 and it totally rocks. But I never got to run it at the track last year except one practice session.

This year they have a new track setup and announced all the classes based on participation last year.
They have 2 and 4WD short course and 17.5 buggy along with the box stock slash. And some 1/8th stuff.

I have always wanted a buggy and when the 6.3 came out I was hooked. But never got a chance to buy one as I had other priorities.

But a deal came my way and I jumped on it.
A brand new modified B6.3D with Spare parts complete with tires.

The only thing I see wrong is it has a 13.5 motor and I need a spec 17.5 motor.

The ESC is a Hobbywing just stock 13.5 combo. I assume I can just swap out the motor for a 17.5 motor. Or do I need a better ESC?

And what is the best motor/ ESC for the 17.5 class?

Can’t wait to get this out on the track.
 

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I officially hate you now 😜

Very nice score bro!

That ESC will be fine with a 17.5t motor. If it were me, with such a nice buggy, I would probably want to put a Tekin setup in it. But I like the Justock stuff too. I have the Justock 13.5t setup in our TT02. You'll want to gear up a bit with that 17.5t.
 
Gearing tires all of that is going to be taken from the guys that run the buggy class already. They are really helpful.

425 bucks for the whole thing. Could not pass that up.

I will probably just get a motor then and run it as it is for the season. Need three battery pack also and that blows my racing budget.

But I have everything I need to run two classes for the whole season.

Need a folding table.
 
I got the used B6.3D in the mail today.

It’s in perfect shape but I need to totally disassemble it.
I think it was built by a teenager and I want to double check the grease and lock tight.

The seller included all the adjustment parts and manual for the rig so that was great.

I obviously need to purchase a couple batteries and a 17.5 spec motor.

The body is fine but I want something original.
I looked at photos from the winners of all the races last year. No one has British racing green and yellow. So I might do that.

Also it did not come with sway bars. Says optional in the manual.

Should I add sway bars for loose dirt outdoor track??

Thinking about this for the paint scheme.
 

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I took the buggy completely apart. There was no grease in the diff. And the ball bearings had some grease and no scratches on the flat surface rings of the diff. The slipper shows no sign of use. So it is new.

But totally set up wrong for my track.

I know nothing about 1/10 scale buggy so this should be fun.

I painted the body also. I had to paint the outside but if I like the scheme I can make another body.

The track I am racing on is low traction outdoor dirt track. And I want to set the rig up for that.

First thing I did was order a sway bar kit.

Next I learned the B6.3D kit comes with a second transmission case.
One is a “layback” trans for clay indoor tracks. The other is a “Lay down” for loose traction outdoor tracks. The manual says to use the lay down for outdoor tracks. So that’s what I did.

Tonight I’ll rebuild the shocks with green slime and 35 weight oil. I need to learn what the different shock lengths are for. I have three choices in the length of the bottom link end.

Have to order gears , tires /wheels and batteries next week.
 
The different length shock ends would be to change the ride height. That is the only thing having longer ends would change, other than the steering link angles on the front. You want the steering links as close to level as you can get at the midpoint of the shock travel to eliminate as much bump steer as possible. So if switching rod ends, I would also adjust the steering links mounting position with spacers. You might have to readjust camber slightly as well, depending on the camber link angles and mounting points to the control arm.
 
This thing has about a million adjustment options.
I understand bump steer and unlike the DR10. This is already equipped with parts to do them all.
It has ways to adjust the Ackerman angle also.
The instruction manual is the best ever. It explains everything and why the changes are made for what type of track. As I read through the manual I can build a set up sheet. Once I have all the information on the set up sheet I can reassemble the car. I can’t wait to run this in my back yard track. I think it is going to be perfect for that.
 
This thing has about a million adjustment options.
I understand bump steer and unlike the DR10. This is already equipped with parts to do them all.
It has ways to adjust the Ackerman angle also.
The instruction manual is the best ever. It explains everything and why the changes are made for what type of track. As I read through the manual I can build a set up sheet. Once I have all the information on the set up sheet I can reassemble the car. I can’t wait to run this in my back yard track. I think it is going to be perfect for that.
That is precicely why I have always loved the RC10's. The tuning options on them was always there to dial things in. They set the standards back in the day. I would love to grab a newer one to see how much they improved. The newest one I have ever owned is the B4 Stoner got me for my B-Day. Before that I had the B2 and B3. Simply awesome buggies.
 
I was looking at the B6.2 and the Losie buggy. Techno does not do 2WD so I was debating between those two when the 6.3 came out. Knowing nothing I was sold on the upgrade list of the 6.3. Really not much I’m going to do to it but run it and fix it.
 
I sprayed my Lotus inspired paint scheme. The scheme is great. The execution not so much.
First off it’s cold so the yellow was all splotchy. The green is OK but I had to paint on the outside.
When I did the stripe I used trim tape and it pulled up( cold probably) anyhow it made a nasty pinstripe.
This is a perfect practice back up body and I will be able to spot it on the track.

Next body will be done with liquid mask and an airbrush.
 

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I have been reading through the manual and have almost all the different adjustments figured out. Not to say the car figured out. But how to make the adjustments and setting and why. Except for the spring cups.

I have three different spring cups three different shock rod end links lengths.
Different shock oil. 35w front and rear.
Plus I can adjust the spring tension with the screw ring on the shock.
Are the shock cups also for riddle height so it can be done independently from spring tension?
I can’t wait to get this on the corner scale.
 
I have been reading through the manual and have almost all the different adjustments figured out. Not to say the car figured out. But how to make the adjustments and setting and why. Except for the spring cups.

I have three different spring cups three different shock rod end links lengths.
Different shock oil. 35w front and rear.
Plus I can adjust the spring tension with the screw ring on the shock.
Are the shock cups also for riddle height so it can be done independently from spring tension?
I can’t wait to get this on the corner scale.
I assume they are to add a bit more preload to the shock. But maybe the 3 sizes are used with the corresponding ends to change the ride height. I know they have 3 different offsets, but not having them in hand to see what part is offset (the spring perch or the location on the rod end), it is hard to say. It is either for extra preload, or ride height.
 
This is the front shock.
Besides oil weight the other adjustments are the length from the rod end to the pivot. And the distance from the rod end to the spring bottom.
Then the screw ring on top the spring for font tuning.
That’s just the shocks adjustments.
 

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Going through this was definitely a good idea . Things were not set up properly for a dirt track.
Still some more work to do . But it’s pretty good.
Shocks are done with the correct parts and slime.
Suspension is all set up for a dirt track. Diff and clutch are adjusted and the body is painted.
 

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I got it running with the wrong gearing and the wrong motor. But tomorrow I am going to spend the day burning batteries in the yard.

All packed up and headed to the track on Friday night.
Just like the old days.
 

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I had a blast racing around the back yard track. It was 7 deg F out side so I immediately broke the rear wing. Like first lap. But I made another one after as my fingers thawed out.
The buggy is a TON of fun. Light weight and super quick. Not stupid fast but on the edge. Throttle control is everything.

I found that on pavement and grass it goes wide turning under throttle and over steers off throttle. I first adjusted the steering so the inside wheel was not hitting the hub. That made a big difference. But I need sway bars and I moved the shocks to the front of the rear control arms just to see how it changes things.

And I made a new wing from styrene.

I will have the proper motor and gearing soon and I can’t wait to run it again. Unfortunately we got a dusting of snow. This is not enough to use the snow blower on. But Thursday we should get more and I can restore the track for next weekend.

I also need to move my pink Flamingo 🦩. It was at my old house when I bought it. It is made of cement along with the little rabbit. The owner of the house said it was out in the garden since she was a child. And she was born in 1924. I found that the plastic Flamingo we all know today was invented in 1957. I think it’s a cool old thing but I need to move it just a little to clean up the back turn.
 

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Camber is king.
For the oversteering off throttle, can you lower the drag brake? That should help a bit with that. Additionally, more rear camber will help as well. 2wd buggies benefit a little more than 4wd buggies do with a little extra front camber. That should help a lot with the understeer.

Oh, and those aren't at all snow tires 😜
 
Thanks . I can just tell that this thing is going to respond to changes well.
 
I typed that all out before I read your entire post. I didn't realize you were still on snow. That changes things a lot, but tuning it to run on the snow will be a lot of fun. Try the changes I mentioned, but I would probably turn the drag brake to the lowest setting, or off.
 
I’m not on snow. The snow sidelined me. But on grass or pavement it was the same characteristics. Going wide under power.
 
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