Is my esc cooked or just capacitors?

[Crapusername1]

When I pull the throttle it shuts down then turns itself back on ,fresh battery and fully charged, but sometimes it will drive for about 30 seconds then shut down again even if i throttle gently. Do you think it's the esc or the capacitors?

 

[Chubaka]

If you have the know how, I would try new caps. My first mamba would brown out after 10 +years. When I get around, I'm gonna try new caps.

It may be a toasted esc, but never hurts to try. Did you recalibrate the esc and rx/tx? Is the rx wire, or any wires plugging in, are they on good working order? Are the plugs all snug, or do they have play or missing clips?

 

[Crapusername1]

If you have the know how, I would try new caps. My first mamba would brown out after 10 +years. When I get around, I'm gonna try new caps.

It may be a toasted esc, but never hurts to try. Did you recalibrate the esc and rx/tx? Is the rx wire, or any wires plugging in, are they on good working order? Are the plugs all snug, or do they have play or missing clips?

I did unplug clean and reconnect everything and everything seems like it's in good condition I'm going to try the caps but I'm not sure what size to reorder

 

[Chubaka]

If your comfortable, I would cut the heat shrink and they should be listed on the side. Be sure to not touch + and - together. When done, heat shrink it back like it is. Doing so keep it clean, intact and prevent shorting.

 

[Crapusername1]

Thank you I wasn't sure where to look for reference i don't have any experience with caps yet looks like I'm about learn, I do know what they do and not to touch the pos and neg unless you like pain, man I'm having a bad rc day I just came home early from the bmx park with a bent centre drive shaft but its easily fixed thanks again

If your comfortable, I would cut the heat shrink and they should be listed on the side. Be sure to not touch + and - together. When done, heat shrink it back like it is. Doing so keep it clean, intact and prevent shorting.

 

[Crapusername1]

I found the problem inside the motor the 3 plates that the wires are soldered to were loose and were able to touch one another so I glued them in place an wedged some plastic between them to insulate it hopefully and its back up and running and racing now thanks for everyone's help

 

[mzanzirc]

When I pull the throttle it shuts down then turns itself back on ,fresh battery and fully charged, but sometimes it will drive for about 30 seconds then shut down again even if i throttle gently. Do you think it's the esc or the capacitors?

I found the problem inside the motor the 3 plates that the wires are soldered to were loose and were able to touch one another so I glued them in place an wedged some plastic between them to insulate it hopefully and its back up and running and racing now thanks for everyone's help

Yeah looking at the fist pic, the solder looks very close to each other.

I could not solder until I started building racing quads. It taught me to solder in very small spaces.

One pro tip I can give when soldering, use a multimeter to test for continuity between the contacts. The easiest way to check for shorts.

 

[olds97_lss]

I know you figured out your issue, but was curious what esc you have. In a lot of cases, the external cap pack is there to supplement the internal capacitors in the esc. So if the external one is damaged/cut off, the esc still works, just may not like things when you apply excessive load.

 

[Crapusername1]

I know you figured out your issue, but was curious what esc you have. In a lot of cases, the external cap pack is there to supplement the internal capacitors in the esc. So if the external one is damaged/cut off, the esc still works, just may not like things when you apply excessive load.

It's a wurks digital 2 i didn't open the heat shrink to the caps but I'm not sure about the settings on the rear of the motor are they to do with timing

 

[olds97_lss]

Looks like that one has all the caps external, or at least I don't see any on the esc directly. Might be a "race" vs "bash" thing. All the ESC's I have are "basher" esc's and they have visible caps on them.

Or they have covers over them protecting them, like the mxl-6s vs the max6 having them exposed:

Or the castle sct sv3 and arrma blx185 also covered:

My hobbywing max10 has them exposed as did I think my vxl-3s:

None of mine "need" external cap packs. But I still made cap packs for some of them. The castle MMX seemed to be helped with them. It logs data and the ripple voltage is what shows how effective the caps are. Without a cap pack, I'd see 3+ volts of ripple, but with a cap pack, it would be less than 1V.

Anyway, glad you got it sorted out. Hopefully shorting the motor contacts didn't kill your esc.

 

[Crapusername1]

Yes I think its a race thing any of the ex race buggies or sct that I've bought have them separately and all my bashers apart from the tc sketer are built into the esc how did you know what size caps to install on the castle I would like to do the same thing

 

[olds97_lss]

Low ESR, a useful capacity and voltage that's higher than the input voltage your using.

I used these:

I made 6 cap cap packs. One for my savage, outcast and e-revo. At the time, I had the MMX on the savage, blx185 on the outcast and can't remember on the e-revo... when I put max6 in the outcast, I didn't put the cap pack in, didn't think it needed it. I did wire one in the max6 I put in the revo though... not sure why.

Made a small one out of 3 caps when I had the MMX in my maxx4s. Didn't have room for a big one. It still did fine and kept the ripple below 1V on 6S input.

 

[Crapusername1]

Thanks for your help and the pics I'm about to order some now an give it a go have a wonderful weekend