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Is air brushing the only way to paint?

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Paint first then decal. They go on top of the lid and are self adhesive, they are not waterslide decals. But dont forget to remove the overspray film off the top of the lid before you apply the decals.

The window masks stick on the inside of the lid and are obviously applied prior to painting.
 
several years ago it was dicoverd that parma buys the paint from Createx and rebadges it under there label and jacks up the price to sell to the unsuspecting hobbyist.[/url]

Are you referring to this stuff:

http://www.createxcolors.com/home_page.htm

Their site does not say this stuff is for Lexan. Also, does Createx offer the transparent colors that can be backed with something like Faskrome? Do they offer colors that are not shown on their website? Does Createx have a sealer like Faskoat?
 
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Wash the inside of the body before you paint and the paint will last alot longer. I always paint, then cut, but thats just me (and a ton of other people :green-grin:) Spray the biggest area first, then paint the smaller. Be sure to back every color with white, or it will look clear. Thats about it for just starting.
 
I was a faskolor guy for a while until I was put on to parma.. I thought the headaches of faskolor was normal for airbrushing.. Pactra is SOOO much better, its day and night difference. Cretix is really bad. Its really bubbly. (at least mine was) I wont ever use that crap again.

Pactra Acryl just blows it away imo, hands down!

As far as cutting, that's a personal preference, I always cut first, imo you run a bigger risk of damaging a fesh paint job by cutting after painting. Plus I find it much easier to fit the body while it is still clear.

Ross, if you want a transparent paint you can back with chrome, I would definately recommend the hard anno paints from Spaz Stix. They have some sick colors that look incredible backed with chrome. And I would recommend Spaz Stix mirror chrome, or Alclad II chrome. Spaz stix chrome in a rattle can is supposed to be very nice too, although I have not tried it yet myself.
 
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I want to shoot a metallic orange and I don't see that color offered by Pactra Acryl. The only Pactra Acryl orange is a flourescent.
 
Are you referring to this stuff:

http://www.createxcolors.com/home_page.htm

Their site does not say this stuff is for Lexan. Also, does Createx offer the transparent colors that can be backed with something like Faskrome? Do they offer colors that are not shown on their website? Does Createx have a sealer like Faskoat?

It isn't listed anywhere on the site but it has been proven to work on lexan with no issues other then nitro fuel will eventually eat thru the paint if left to sit on it. many of the the top painters have been using it for years. the auto-air line from createx has been gaining in popularity in the last few years since it is a bit thinner then the regular createx and has a wider selection of colors and specialty paints.

yes createx offers up a full line of opaques, transparent, pearls, chameleon (flip-flop paint) and iridescent colors.

as for the sealer you can use the createx clear coat in either gloss or matte it's the same as the faskoat just cost you less for more.

The spaz stix hard anodized orange backed with the mirror chrome will give you by far the best metallic looking paint job. but it is lacquer base paint not sure if you want to mess with that just yet.

full list of auto air colors can be found here

http://www.autoaircolors.com/product_list.htm
 
If I went with Pactra I guess I could mix 2 parts transparent Red with 1 part transparent Green to get transparent Orange. Seems like a hassle though.
 
The spaz stix hard anodized orange backed with the mirror chrome will give you by far the best metallic looking paint job. but it is lacquer base paint not sure if you want to mess with that just yet.

Just do this Ross, it will look amazing!

If I went with Pactra I guess I could mix 2 parts transparent Red with 1 part transparent Green to get transparent Orange. Seems like a hassle though.


Not sure what mixing red and green will give you, but to make orange you need red and yellow. :D
 
Not sure what mixing red and green will give you, but to make orange you need red and yellow. :D

Pactra Acrylic is not available in transparent yellow, but it is available in transparent red and transparent green. :hump:

  • One part red + one part green = yellow.
  • One part red + one part yellow = orange.
  • One part red + (one part red + one part green) = two parts red + one part green = yellow.

One more question, I want to do the roof in flat black but I have a feeling that the standards black are going to be glossy. What should I use to get flat black (Acrylic preferred)?
 
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Unfortunately, ross, you can't mix yellow. If you add trans red to trans green you'll still end up with a trans kinda brownish thing. With paints, yellow is a primary so it has no mixable component. Same with red and blue. So for orange you'll either need to find trans orange or trans yellow. I do know for a fact that Createx is available in trans yellow, as I have a bottle down in my shop. I actually don't mind the Createx because it's a TON thinner than Faskolor. And the transparents are even more so. Check your local art supply or Michael's to see if they have some.

As for the flat black, not much you can do aside from using a flat model paint. I'm not sure of anyone who makes a polycarb compatible flat black. And if they did, you'd have to paint it on the outside of the body as the clear plastic will automatically cause a high shine finish.
 
all the lexan paints that we use are flat paints for the most part only the lacquers are going to give you any type of sheen and even most of these need a clear coat to really make em shine.

for R/C painting the lexan body is the clear-coat.


And Ze Candyman is abzolutly correct you can't mix yellow.

Time to unpimp ze auto! I love those commercials.
 
The Spaz Stix idea sounds interesting because I plan to use mirror chrome on the blower. Does the Spaz Stix (lacquer) need to be thinned?

NC - '69 Charger for my Savage.
 
No, the spaz stix hard anno does not need to be thinned, it shoots very very nice right out of the bottle.

Make sure you post pics when you are done.
 
I just went to Micheals and A.C. Moore. Createx 2oz bottles were $3.50 which is not much cheaper than the Faskolor stuff ($4 per 2oz at Tower). They did not have 4oz bottles in either store.

I'm going with the Spaz Stix Orange backed with Mirror Chrome, and then backed with Acrylic Black. The blower will be only chrome backed with the black.

Will a single 1oz bottle of Mirror Chrome be enough?
 
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the 1oz bottle should be enough all depends on how many coats you need to get the look your going for. I'm looking at the charger body now for the savage and it looks like it will at least kill most of a one 1oz bottle for sure if you do 4-5 coats.

I used 1/2 a bottle of the hard anno candy apple green to spray several light coats on a streamliner body for the savage a few months ago and backed that with the chrome and got good results and I still have the chrome left about 1/3 of a bottle left at this point.

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you don't need a lot of the hard anno orange just enough to tint the lexan I suggest you do a few test pieces first to gauge the effect your after.
 
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Heres the Orange youll get. Its CRAZY cool stuff.(Hard annodized orange backed with Chrome). Its like the orange on a sunkist can. Has that aluminum reflective look to it.. Very cool.
PICT0762.webp
 
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how many coats of the orange and chrome to get that efect?

Looks good.
 
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