Install my Fast Eddy bearings

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cbaker65

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I want to install my Fast Eddy bearings ,but I'm in a kind of delimma!

I have had & been using these aluminum knuckles because the originals keep breaking
at the horn on heavy bashing ,but they eat the bearings up ,I had already went through
2 sets of bearings both fronts an rears!
I can't figure out why ,the bearing fit nice an tight an have to be pressed in.
Does any body think that the fitment of the bearing maybe too tight messing up the bearings?
I see other people using aluminum carriers an they don't seem to have that issue!

Heres a pic.

 

cbaker65

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One other thing ,the old bearing is harder than heck to remove ,an the other option is to take originals
off my green MGT. -shelf queen ,use those an take these ,an clean the blue iodine off an put these on
the shelf queen!...:cool:
 

cbaker65

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@cbaker65 the bearings should be firm going in but nothing to crazy. Who makes the aluminum knuckles?

Maybe consider getting a set of the RPM knuckles?
I would love RPM knuckles ,an would have bought those a long time ago ,but they don't exist
for this truck!
T-maxx knuckles do not work ,the horn off them is way off!...:doh:

I did take my dremel tool an reamed the aluminum ones out a little last night so the fitment is
not too tight ,the bearings fit snug an come out a little easier!...:cool:
 

cbaker65

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Its going to take awhile ,at first I was going to just install the new bearings an run it ,but
when I was pulling the front wheels off last night ,I discovered that the front diff. wasn't
feeling right ,it was free spinning ,so something inside is shot ,probably a stripped gear or
broken pin.
I have extra diff.s ,they are a pitta to pull ,the whole front end has to be taken apart to pull
the diff. ,shock towers ,bumper ,skid plate ,so I may as well pull everything an clean the truck ,
it is very nasty & dirty as I quit cleaning it years ago because its just a basher!



 

cbaker65

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Sucked the diff. out!


It was just jammed from the drive shaft cup being loose ,grub screw fell out ,diff. still needs new bearings ,the
cups are real wobbly ,so I will crack it open ,inspect ,lube an put new F.E. bearings in there!...:D


I have a bent a-arm mount ,an probably the Lunsford titanium hinge pin is bent ,pinching the a-arm ,
causing the a-arm not to move freely.

 

olds97_lss

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Are there any spacers in the inside race between the bearings? Could be when your putting your wheel nut on, your crushing the bearings from the side causing them to fail prematurely. I had that when I put aftermarket axles on my stampede. I had to remove inner races from old bearings, grind them down so that I could put them between the bearings as shims so that I could tighten my wheel nuts down with wreckless abandon and not crush the bearings from the side.

I had to do the same thing on integy rockers on my revos because integy didn't get the spacing right and when I'd tighten down the rocker pivot screws, the bearings would get crushed and you could feel them be all notchy. With proper shimming, the screw can be tightened properly and the bearings are buttery smooth again like stock.
 

WoodiE

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cbaker65

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Are there any spacers in the inside race between the bearings? Could be when your putting your wheel nut on, your crushing the bearings from the side causing them to fail prematurely. I had that when I put aftermarket axles on my stampede. I had to remove inner races from old bearings, grind them down so that I could put them between the bearings as shims so that I could tighten my wheel nuts down with wreckless abandon and not crush the bearings from the side.

I had to do the same thing on integy rockers on my revos because integy didn't get the spacing right and when I'd tighten down the rocker pivot screws, the bearings would get crushed and you could feel them be all notchy. With proper shimming, the screw can be tightened properly and the bearings are buttery smooth again like stock.
You know what ,I was thinking the same thing when I was getting them out to work on them the other day!
I was thinking that I maybe crushing the bearing as I was tightening the wheel down!

They moved good an smooth an looked ok before installing the wheels ,so that does make sense that they
are being crushed when the wheels are being cranked down ,all 4 hubs do it!

Thanks for the tip ,great advice!
I will do some proper shimming an get back to this thread about this!....:thumbs-up:
 

olds97_lss

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With MT tires, it's hard to feel the binding because the tires are so big/bulky. Might be easier to feel if you have a rim without a tire on it. Could be worth the $9 it costs for a spare rim to get your shimming sorted out.
 

cbaker65

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Actually they exist and the part I listed will work just fine. It's the exact same I ran on my MGT. You just need to purchase two sets of RPM 80010 pivot balls as well.

But don't believe me and simply follow the instructions listed on RPM's site here - I have an Associated Monster GT. How do I fit RPM T/E-Maxx steering knuckles on my truck?
Thnx Woodie ,I will check them out!...:thumbs-up:

I all ready knew that the knuckles had the same geo. years ago after trying to fit a stock T-max knuckle
on my MGT. after breaking one of my knuckles!
What didn't fit right was the horn for the steering rod ,it was the wrong angle.
However ,RPM could have modified that part slightly on the knuckle to enter change ,
RPM did at one time I think produce the original part for the MGT. ,as MGT after market
parts are fading out!...:doh:
 

cbaker65

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I still have to finish this thread ,an still have to install the Fast Eddy bearings ,so by talking about Mgt's today ,It
got me motivated!

Here is some pics of the mgt. when I replaced the rear diff. ,it was only because the bearing wore out at
the cup shaft ,I just changed the hole diff. ,because a few years back ,I had turned it into posi-trac an dont
want that in there anymore!











I will see if I can recover the old pics from when I started the thread an the bearings!
 

cbaker65

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I think that I remember why I put this off ,further looking into my photos ,I see other issues that needed addressed ,
here is another issue ,a bent hinge pin mount!

Diff cases an these parts do last along time ,although ,as plastics get old ,they get brittle in time ,they
will snap if they get hit just right ,but them breaking is not a frequent thing ,but does happen!

I bash this truck hard ,the rear diff housing broke on this about 10 years ago while cart wheeling down a tall
hill ,the front was a more recent time when I smacked a curb ,but ,the plastic had already aged ,they are pretty
beefy & strong ,I really don't have any issues with them snapping ,but I will go ahead an see if I can come up
with a solution to maybe help brace them!

The impact will find a weak spot ,I know that!....:hehe:



I don't know if I will install these or not ,I think that I will put on the plastic ones for now until I figure
out why they eat bearings so much ,they are very hungry ,I had already went through 2 sets of bearings ,
I don't want my Fast Eddy's gobbled up!...:doh:



An here is one of the issues ,but like I said ,this only happens on a very hard hit ,more than likely ,when I
hit the curb ,or a bad endo ,in which that I am very good at!....LOL

This does pinch the suspension off!



I think ,that I will go ahead an fab up a rear skid plate to match the front one that I did while I have
the diff out!

 

cbaker65

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Took some pics as I get my parts out an clean so I can start putting it back together!
I am also putting a tape measure to the parts so that people can get an idea of the parts size.
The diffs are pretty meaty an are a good solid diff ,never had problems with them from factory ,
they haven't been shimmed!
The axles are put out by MIP. ,they ARE NOT their average size ,they are the MIP super duty ,an are rare!
Shock towers is Hardcore!




 

cbaker65

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I just got the chassy cleaned up ,can really tell how one or two of the a-arms are pinched an don't move freely!
I have new top hinge pin mounts ,it is the mount that is bent ,I remember one time trying to bend one back ,its
hard ,they are loose ,this would be a good place to put some Loc-tite!

Oh ,the tie rods are Lunsford ,steering rack is either Lunsford or Hardcore ,can't remember!
An notice ,my front skid is thicker ,billet not titanium ,it is softer ,but thicker!
Rear bumper is Hardcore titanium ,there was a top piece on there ,but I manage to snap it
off on a bad landing ,titanium is a more stiffer aluminum ,so it will snap!

Center shafts are MIP!




 

cbaker65

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A member here had peaked my interest in a diff. hinge pin mod!
The lower a-arm hinge mount is molded to the diff in which is prone to break or the pin to blow out
sometimes on an awkward hit ,in which I had it happen to me twice ,once in the front an one time
in the rear from a nasty hill cart wheel.

I came up with this idea!
It will stabilize both sides together an not allow them to blow outward on an impact ,may not be
bullet proof ,but should give it more strength an help!
There is two screw holes there ,the diffs are front or rear ,the 2 screw holes isn't used for the front ,
they are for the rear tie rods ,so they can be used to screw the aluminum plating in place ,an drill the
hole out for the pin!

Here is a pic!





Thnx to ,https://www.rctalk.com/forum/members/d3mon.41706/
 
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D3MON

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hey! am really wanting to see this, think i am going to wait on trying to do the mod i was thinking until one of mine breaks, no reason to destroy a good diff case, on the rear where the turnbuckles screw in, could just screw straight through,( may need a longer screw) to mount there, almost wish they did what Lost did on the lst where they made the tow built in so no turnbuckles to have to worry about. (though it is a good failure point then a full A-Arm) and it makes it nice to be able to have the same front and rears. looks good!! what are you planning for the screws themselves? drilling the alu a bit over so its not threaded in? or planning on using hinge pins not screws?
glad to get you back into workin on the MGT!
 

cbaker65

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hey! am really wanting to see this, think i am going to wait on trying to do the mod i was thinking until one of mine breaks, no reason to destroy a good diff case, on the rear where the turnbuckles screw in, could just screw straight through,( may need a longer screw) to mount there, almost wish they did what Lost did on the lst where they made the tow built in so no turnbuckles to have to worry about. (though it is a good failure point then a full A-Arm) and it makes it nice to be able to have the same front and rears. looks good!! what are you planning for the screws themselves? drilling the alu a bit over so its not threaded in? or planning on using hinge pins not screws?
glad to get you back into workin on the MGT!
LOL....By you asking me that ? ,you just made me think of another idea!

I do have a bunch of the original screw in hinge pins ,but I am not using those types ,I have the Lunsford
titanium hinge pins which don't screw in ,they have the little e-clip on the ends!

I will probably have to put the original screw one in ,the aluminum is 1/8'' thick!
ok , I just figured it out ,I will use a top pin ,they are almost a 1/4'' longer than the bottoms ,the
pin itself screws into the a-arm an the pin hinges with the a-arm ,I think that this was what you were saying ,
how am I going to do it!
I can thread the aluminum ,in which is easy because it is soft ,or I can make my own hinge pin an use the
e-clip method ,a small groove can be cut into the shaft for the e-clip with the Dremel tool!

I have both toolings ,Dremel & tap & die set!...:cool:
 

D3MON

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Think I am going to have to try that lol, looks really good, will be really good and reinforced. I like the usability of the e clips, but they pop off so often, remember that issue with my t-maxx and rustler. Pin never backed out, just clips went away.
 

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