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I'm new to this n need some help.

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simple83

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I'm new to this n need some help with stalling engine...

I'm just gettin into this hobby and I've got a HSP Warhead and I'm just gettin it up and runnin but I'm havin a few dramas. sometimes no matter which way the throttle switch on my transmitter is its always in reverse but sometimes its not. sometimes it even changes itself, as in one minute it will be correct n then the next minute itll be in reverse....
wats the cause n solution for this?

also,

when I'm holding the buggy off the ground it will run ok n accelerate n sometimes cut out. but when i place it on the ground it will go not even 2 foot before the engine stalls......and I'm wondering why????

and help from anyone would be greatly appreciate cos I'm only new to this n i need to learn some in and outs of nitro cars.


THANKS
:\
 
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Well the first 'out' may have been buying a cheapo for a first rig. When your car stalls, are you giving it throttle? The reason for asking this is your rig is probably set hell rich from the factory. Meaning your flooding it. Have you touched the LSN or HSN?? Now that being my first guess, you MAY have a clutch problem. When you start the car, do the wheels turn quickly at idle? If so, its something to do with your clutch. Check the bearings, they should spin easily both ways, if not, get new ones. But that not being the case , it may be something more serious like clutch springs. How old is the car? It sounds like your currently breaking it in. So it shouldnt be a clutch issue, if it is its also a warranty issue as it sounds like you've barely driven it. Did you buy it locally? If you did it will make it a lot easier. As for your transmitter issue, I'm not too sure. All i can reccomend is check all the wires, and re-seat the crystals. I'm not too good with them.

Hope that helps!
 
re set the crystal if it still give you trouble ther is a switch on most new transmitters to reverse the whole transmitter to reverse functions so look for that if not that take it back get them to fix it for you under the shops buyer protection clause
 
BradZ..............................it is stalling when i give it some throttle to get it moving. wat do u mean by LSN and HSN? (sorry I'm new n dunno the talk yet)how exactly is the best way to make it run not so rich??? the car is brand new and I'm just breakin it in but have this problem now.

kingpin13f............ even when i change the switch on the transmitter it still doesn't change it.... but its weird cos sometimes it works correctly but other times its in reverse.... like its possessed....
 
Some remotes also have normal and reverse switches, making the steering and throttle controls work the other way as to normal. Check they are in the N position for expected result when using. Ie pull trigger back opens the carb, push it forward stops the car.
 
Simple, when you give the car gas, does the engine tone go really low and shut off, like its burning out? If so id say your really really rich from factory. Now the way to fix this is needle adjustments. I assume after reading that thread posted up here by Suicide that you know what a HSN and LSN are. So to LEAN your LSN meaning its not running so rich, turn the needle very slightly clockwise. Since your in break in only turn it untill it works, dont turn on improvement as its a new engine and its not ready to be tuned. Now, does your cars wheels spin quickly at idle? This wil help identify if your clutch is causing problems. We will get you up and running, dont worry mate :D

PS. Check your ignitor is fully charged, and that your glow plug is good, it may be causing problems..
 
BradZ.......i worked out what HSN and LSN are after looking at the link that suicide posted....... much appreciated suicide.......I've fiddled around with the HSN and got that goin abit better........and now it seems that when i give it abit to much throttle it bogs down n cuts out.......and its also seems to be running abit hot....around 270F..... i believe that this is to hot!!! am i correct? if it is how do i get it to run abit cooler? does that involve the HSN/LSN???? i have adjusted the throttle on the transmitter so that when it idles that the wheels dont spin! is that a good idea or not? any help would be greatly appreciated........
 
Alright, we are making progress. Firstly, a clutch works on centrifugal force. Meaning the more speed the clutch is rotating with (higher rpm) the more the shoes swing out to engage. If they are broken in any way, the shoes may engage at rpms far to low to work out in any situation. And if they require higher rpms to engage, this can be used as an advantage in racing, to a certain extent. But if the rpm requirement is too high, its is practically useless as it barely engages untill way up into the rev range. So yes, at idle there should NOT be enough force to engage the clutch. Meaning the wheels should not spin. So you've got that right. Now as you said, you've twiddled the the HSN and got the temps to 270F. This is a high-ish temperature for normal running. Way too high for break in. Now, I'm guessing you leaned it as i said. But probably not slightly. When turning the needles , 1/8 of a turn makes a huge difference. My guess is you've turned it a lot further than that. Re-set them both back to factory settings. They should be included in your manual. Have a read. Alrighty, next issue. The reason its bogging out and dieing on you is more than likely a terribly rich low end. And because you leaned the HSN it wont have affected the LSN(low end). So, after you have re set BOTH needles to factory, fire up your rig and let it warm up. Then accelerate in the manner that you usually do when it dies on you. If it does die, fire it back up and SLIGHTLY lean the LSN. Now you shouldnt normally have to touch needles during break in, but in some cases it has to be done. So turn the LSN about a 1/8 of a turn clockwise, thus leaning the mixture. Now try again, you should not have to touch it again. Dont just gun it off the line, go easy, and that combined with a slightly leaner low end should solve your problem.
Ok i think I'm about done, your 100% correct, the HSN and LSN are your direct reasons for temperature change. See, nitro engines are only 25% cooled by the cooling head. Most of the cooling comes from the fuel. Think of the needles as thermostats, turning them clockwise(leaner) increases performance( to a certain extent as it is possible to over lean) , but also temperature. Hope this helps mate!!
 
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