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I'm a major newbie NEED HELP plz

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got__nitro?

Gone - bye bye.
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I just got my first nitro truck (rustler) My throttle somehow runs to high and the clutch is activated so I can't let it idle without it goin' 15 mph. any suggestions or answers? Thanx!
 
You need readjust your idle screw so the opening on the carburator (sp?) is less.

There's a black screw with a spring on the carb. That's the idle adjustment screw. Just turn it with a flathead while the radio and receiver is on and watch the opening carefully.
 
Also, it might be your radio or throttle linkage. If you have the throttle trim adjusted high, it will do the same thing. If the servo can't bring the throttle closed, you're going to see stuff like this too. I would check out the radio, servo, linkages before playing with the carb. The best way to check this out is to take the air filter off an see how much "gap" you see when the throttle is closed. The manual will tell you how much gap you should have. Most engines it's like 1-1.5 mm. The idel set screw like Kwong mentioned also controls this.

Good luck,
Rob
 
I bought it used on ebay so it does not have a manual. When I put the trim as low as low as it goes or even close to as low as it goes the throttle goes crazy and goes up and down fast. I know wat the throttle screw looks like but I can't find it anywhere. I have another question. If you use the glow starter the first time you start it and it goes for about 2 min will you need it to start it again if it's warm? Thanx for all your help glad I came here:cool:
 
the throttle could be twitching because of a bad reiceiver crystal.That is what caused mine to twich
 
How often do you clean your air filter? can you clean it with 30 W oil or does it have to be special oil? Does the throttle normally go up and then back down when you steer? I think the throttle only twitches when it's very cold. Any answers on why earlier today it was runnin' like normal (way to high) and then an hour later it ran a little bit and quit?
 
You probrably overheated it. Do u have a temp gauge to check the temps? If not, I suggest u do so.
 
no. I know it wasn't overheating. I grabbed the engine with my hand and I barely felt any warmness. :n00bie:
 
I'm gonna try it again today and I'll come back with some feedback.
 
Another thing. It says on my reciever "failsafe" does that mean it won't take off if the radio runs out o' batts. or something like that happens?
 
Ok I ran it today. fairly cold outside. I get it started fine. I adjusted the idle screw while it was runningit got lower and lower good. but it never got low enough to where the wheels would stop turning and it would run at the same time. So in other words the wheels always have to be turning so that it can run. How do I get the rpms low enough so the wheels stop and high enough for it to run? if it's the low speed needle, do I have to adjust that while it's running? Also I'm still having problems with the steering, the throttle goes wide open when I keep the wheels turned. I even put new batteries in it and it did the trick for a little bit but then went back to normal. I really don't feel safe driving this thing so I'v reallly never drove it yet exept in thick grass walking in front of it so I could stop it.
 
Sounds like youve got the throttle problem solved...so lets move on.

If you do stop the wheels does the engine cut out? This was happeneing to a friends SuperNitro. Turned out to be his clutch springs so even at low idle speed the clutch shoes were engaging.

You'll have to take the engine out and remove the clutch bell. Your clutch shoes should be tight around the drive shaft. It should not be very easy to pull them away. if it is very easy then its definitly your spring(s).

As for the failsafe... A failsafe provides a bit of protection against signal loss (like if your radio batts die or you go out of range), and some even protect against signal interference (like if someone else is on your same frequency) but they dont work at all if the receiver batts in the car die. They need a power source to move the throttle to the close position. Alot of the guys here run a TRS (throttle return spring). The spring has to be strong enough to return the throttle to the closed position if the receiver batts ever give out on you.

Now, I have never seen an "integrated" failsafe in a receiver. That doesn't mean they dont exist...just that I've never seen one. A failsafe is typically a small device that connects between your receiver and your throttle servo. Heres what mine looks like in my LD3. Its the small red and black button looking thing in the radio box:
660Failsafe_1a.webp


If you dont have a seperate small device connected to the throttle server you probably DONT have a failsafe.
 
Well I'm taking it to a shop Sunday. They said they'd look at it then. do you think they'll look at the clutch? When I stop the wheels when the engine is on idle yes it does cut out. but if I have it reved up some then no it doesn't. I think I do have failsafe because there's a little thing that looks similar to yours that's sitting on top of the reciever that says "failsafe" but I don't kno if its working right because when I have the remote on it's normal and then when I shut it off it goes wide open throttle but the red light lights up on the failsafe but it's sitting on full throttle.
 
Got-nitro if when you shut off you controller it goes full throttle, then most likely your failsafe is programed wrong, it needs to be change so it applys full brake at cut off rather than throttle. Check what brand it is and check online for a programming sheet.
 
Thanx I'll try that, but I still have a problem with every time I steer the throttle goes full.

could that be a bad servo or programming?
 
Its possible it can be a bad servo, just had a steering servo go bad on my xxx-nt, while it started to die it would somewhat pulse my throttle a little kind of wacking every thing out as if someone else had the same freq. on. Try swapping it and see what happens.
 
I'm taking it to my lhs tomorrow they said they would look at it. Thanx for advice
 
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