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Idle for break-in?

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mach1basher

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I was just curious. How do people let there caras idel for a whole tank during break-in and normally they idel for a minuit.
 
DOn't bust your brain trying tofigure it out because its not the proper way to break-in an engine.

I would imagine that people have to lean it way out to stay running, but taht is just a guess.
 
my brand new .26 idled on its first tank no problem, no carb adjustments either.

but yes there was fuel/oil dumping out of the exhaust stinger!

power baby! power!
 
It's not the best practice (according to most) to let an engine idle through a tank. I've had good success getting the engine up to temp and gently easing on the throttle to 1/2 throttle for the first tank or two. The key to breaking in an engine is to get the temps up quickly without leaning it out too much. With the excessive pinch of a new engine, they build up heat pretty easily, but you usually have to lean them out a bit from factory settings because they are so rich that they just pour cold fuel into the engine keeping it cool.
 
I just set mine to a nice, flat tune to run right out of the box, unless it comes pre set. I let it idle for a full tank, then the temp readins and adjustments, then I drive lazy circles for another tank, then I start to play a bit, then I make my finaly adjustments and start some low speed distance runs.

Breaking in an engine has allways been important to me because the first nitro I had lost a mill after I just started it up and went hauling around everywhere.
 
It's not the best practice (according to most) to let an engine idle through a tank. I've had good success getting the engine up to temp and gently easing on the throttle to 1/2 throttle for the first tank or two. The key to breaking in an engine is to get the temps up quickly without leaning it out too much. With the excessive pinch of a new engine, they build up heat pretty easily, but you usually have to lean them out a bit from factory settings because they are so rich that they just pour cold fuel into the engine keeping it cool.


You know what... I may have to do some searching and/or start another thread. I am getting ready to break in a .21 VSpec and I would like to try this method. I usually try to get it to idle for at least one tank. If there is a better way, I am all for it.

Tom
 
Idling for a tank does aboslutly nothing. This meaning..your wasting your time and not doing anything to the mill.

Do a search for the heat cycle method. This is the way that 90% of the members here, and the pros do it this way. If you do it right you will get many many many gallons out of your engine. If you do it half assed I'll be forced to say I told you so.
 
Idling for a tank does aboslutly nothing. This meaning..your wasting your time and not doing anything to the mill.

Do a search for the heat cycle method. This is the way that 90% of the members here, and the pros do it this way. If you do it right you will get many many many gallons out of your engine. If you do it half assed I'll be forced to say I told you so.


That's my problem... I am such a damn rookie at tuning nitros that I don't even know if I am doing it half assed... know what mean? You do what you think is the right way because you don't know any better but you end up doing it the wrong way. I just want to make sure I have gotten it right before I go and destroy a very expensive mill.

Tom
 
The heat cycle is pretty noob proof. If you've got a heat gun then you can do it with no problems.

Basically start it up and get it to 200-210 and keep it there. You will notice that tank after tank you will have to lean it out to keep the temps up.

You can even drive it around and it won't hurt it just as long as you check the temps. I typically do it for 6-7 tanks then start to race tune.
 
The heat cycle is pretty noob proof. If you've got a heat gun then you can do it with no problems.

Basically start it up and get it to 200-210 and keep it there. You will notice that tank after tank you will have to lean it out to keep the temps up.

You can even drive it around and it won't hurt it just as long as you check the temps. I typically do it for 6-7 tanks then start to race tune.

Hey VB... I am guessing the Heat gun is to heat the head before starting? If so what temp are you looking at the head before you start? Thanks

Tom
 
You want to be around 210 all the time. Heating the head before you start will just make startin the engine easier, its not a necessity.
 
Ok cool... I should be able to break this mill in ok. I don't consider myself an idiot... although some may argue to the contrary! LOL

Tom
 
godale03, I sent you a PM. It's a writeup I did a few years back for a typical heat cycle break in (or at least my version). Might help you out.

Ok... I was going to send you a PM. My notes are too long... had to shorten them a bit. They are kind of long-winded, but keep in mind they are for someone who is new to nitro in general.
 
Thanks a bunch Olds! Those should be very handy. I will print these out and have them on hand. I was planning on trying to break this mill in this weekend, but wouldn't you know it, it was in the upper 70's all week and now this weekend they are calling for rain and snow showers with temps in the low 40's. Oh well. Thanks again for the help Olds!

Tom
 
You can buy those handwarmer chemical packs. I ziptied a couple of those to an engine during winter break-in once. They kept the engine above 70 degrees and let it cool down slowly between tanks.

Or you could wait ;)
 
You can buy those handwarmer chemical packs. I ziptied a couple of those to an engine during winter break-in once. They kept the engine above 70 degrees and let it cool down slowly between tanks.

Or you could wait ;)

First it was Armorall in the fuel to prevent foaming.... (Which works great by the way) and now foot warmers to break in a mill. Man how do you come up with all of this stuff. It actually makes sense too. Thanks man.

Tom
 
I would like to re-introduce our very own Dr Frankenstein...Olds97_lss
 
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