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I need a bigblock which one?
- Thread starter cwest3355
- Start date
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Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280429075867&_trkparms=tab=Watching#ht_500wt_971
This engine plus a 086 pipe will blow away an Axial anyday.
This engine plus a 086 pipe will blow away an Axial anyday.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280429075867&_trkparms=tab=Watching#ht_548wt_971
Sorry see if this one works
Damnit, it's in my E-Bay. don't know what the problem is.
Anyways. Search E-Bay for Picco .21 Pull Start RC Nitro Engine 3 Port OFNA
Sorry see if this one works
Damnit, it's in my E-Bay. don't know what the problem is.
Anyways. Search E-Bay for Picco .21 Pull Start RC Nitro Engine 3 Port OFNA
cwest3355
RCTalk Champion
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- #7
That one didnt work either
http://cgi.ebay.com/Picco-21-Pull-S...Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414ae01d9b
Is this it
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Yep! It is a beast with good fuel and the pipe i mentioned. I ran one against 250 dollar engines in a buggy and a truggy. It held it's own and embarassed a few Novarossi engines.
You will need a heat gun to break this engine in. It is super tight for the first 3/4's of a gallon. I used a starter box also.
You will need a heat gun to break this engine in. It is super tight for the first 3/4's of a gallon. I used a starter box also.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
One more thing use a good fuel like Byron's Pro 30% with 9% oil or Sidewider 30% Pro or Worlds, O'Donnell's 30% Race. Any quality fuel with 30% Nitro and 12% oil to 9% oil.
Use these plugs in it or an equivelant.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAX9&P=SM
You will not need to lean the HSN hardly at all. You may need to richen it a tad if anything. Mine hovered around 240-250 during breakin and ran good.
After it broke in, it ran a consistent 200-225F.
It was an easy break in, the needles where spot on out of the box. Preheating it and loosening the glowplug is a must otherwise you'll never get it started. Once it fires up..... nothing idles like a Picco.
Use the LSN to get it above 200F for the first 6 heat cycles. Small adjustments. I'll be happy to help you if you run into problems.
Use these plugs in it or an equivelant.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAX9&P=SM
You will not need to lean the HSN hardly at all. You may need to richen it a tad if anything. Mine hovered around 240-250 during breakin and ran good.
After it broke in, it ran a consistent 200-225F.
It was an easy break in, the needles where spot on out of the box. Preheating it and loosening the glowplug is a must otherwise you'll never get it started. Once it fires up..... nothing idles like a Picco.
Use the LSN to get it above 200F for the first 6 heat cycles. Small adjustments. I'll be happy to help you if you run into problems.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
I suggest you not buy the Hyper ST pipe. I never used one, nor do I see any of my fellow racers using them, or any pro's for that matter. The advice I am giving you was handed down to me by a Pro Engine modder who knows his poop. The 086 was the best of several pipes I tried by a long shot.
Scrogg is right with the 086, there are one or two that may perform a touch better but they are twice the price, if you can even find one.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
I can't tell the difference performance wise between my Ofna and Dynamite 086 pipes. BUT the headers they come with make a big difference. The Dynamite is smoother flowing and a bit shorter. I have had better results with the longer Ofna header. Quality wise, the Dynamite is damn near indestructible and lightweight.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
It will get harder to start after the first day of breakin. By 3/4's a tank mine fully broke in. R/C Driver radared this engine in the Picco buggy with the stock crappy 2053 knock off RTR pipe AT 39 mph! It's a heavy buggy too. I wish they had tried a different pipe on their radar speed runs.
cwest3355
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Well when i had the chance i ran it for one tank idling i kept it from 180-200 range having a problem with the mount and holes on the motor lining up and the motor being longer and taking up more space. The motor just barely hanging on dont want to drive it until this is cleared.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
poop, we'll figure something out for engine mounts. I bolted this same engine into 3 different cars, it is longer but I solved that with a different collet to move the flywheel back. Sorry bud, I hate this. I'll do what I can for you. Damn I hate Duratrax. The engine bolt holes on the Picco are standard for .21 and up size engines.
Is it that the engine case is so wide that you may need to dremel off some of the inside material from the engine mount to allow it to sit flush on the mount?
The wider case is because Picco made it to be strong with a larger main bearing than cheaper brands do like Axial, Duratrax( Thunder Tiger makes their engines). Thunder Tiger may make good plane engines but their car/truck engines are duds for performance.
Is it that the engine case is so wide that you may need to dremel off some of the inside material from the engine mount to allow it to sit flush on the mount?
The wider case is because Picco made it to be strong with a larger main bearing than cheaper brands do like Axial, Duratrax( Thunder Tiger makes their engines). Thunder Tiger may make good plane engines but their car/truck engines are duds for performance.
