The OS .15 CV is a good motor as well for a good price. Also, and thanks to MNM for jogging the memory, I still have my .15FE from my MT. I'll bet the conrod, P/S will work in your engine as well. I'll send the to you, if you're interested.
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I just had a heart attack. [with pics]
- Thread starter pantherqs
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racin_38
Hardcore RCTalk User
i am not trying to be an ass,but DAMN that thing looks like it was run really lean
what fuel where you using ,you said 15% ,may sound dumb ,but are you sure it was car fuel and not airplane fuel?
i have never tried it but i have heard you can not use plane nitro in a car or truck
just asking and yeah how did you make out ?
what fuel where you using ,you said 15% ,may sound dumb ,but are you sure it was car fuel and not airplane fuel?
i have never tried it but i have heard you can not use plane nitro in a car or truck
just asking and yeah how did you make out ?
Frankenschteiner
RCTalk Rookie
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Hi, I'm the resident model boater on this site and this episode caught my intrest.
I just bought a Ofna Hyper .21 pullstart recently and noticed that the "crankpin"
is "counter bored" to accept the "pin" that's on the pullstart side of these motors.
I was not happy to see this cause I'm adapting some car/truck engines to fit the
Thunder Tiger .21 outboard lower unit. This is one of the reason's I was not happy,,
the missing "chunk" on the engine in question here is "steel". It's a chunk of that
counter bored crankpin,, it's definetly a weak spot the engine and I'm surprized that
we're not seeing more of this type of problem.
The crankpin is broken on the side of normal pullstart rotation,,check and see
if the pullstart pin is bent slightly,, it would tell something of the strength of
the pin itself.
I just bought a Ofna Hyper .21 pullstart recently and noticed that the "crankpin"
is "counter bored" to accept the "pin" that's on the pullstart side of these motors.
I was not happy to see this cause I'm adapting some car/truck engines to fit the
Thunder Tiger .21 outboard lower unit. This is one of the reason's I was not happy,,
the missing "chunk" on the engine in question here is "steel". It's a chunk of that
counter bored crankpin,, it's definetly a weak spot the engine and I'm surprized that
we're not seeing more of this type of problem.
The crankpin is broken on the side of normal pullstart rotation,,check and see
if the pullstart pin is bent slightly,, it would tell something of the strength of
the pin itself.
Last edited:
jstoeckel
RCTalk Basher
hey i was wondering how long you waited during break in to bring the engine up to full rpm..I've seen this happen from the engine being reved up to hi to early in the break in ...other wise its most likely a defect in the engine..
