Hyper Go update

[DamianRC]

Had to put bigger wheels on my little car, it bottoms out to easy. I had these wheels lying around. Had to reverse the wheels so they would fit. I made some hex adapters for them. Interestingly, the top speed has gone from 38mph to about 47mph! Also check out the chunkiness of those shafts.

To counteract overheating I put in another fan.

 

[Doom!]

A little taller tires and you can drive it upside down! Looks good.

 

[OBS4EVER]

A little taller tires and you can drive it upside down! Looks good.

Badlands MX 2.8

 

[Chubaka]

Looks like a handful

A little taller tires and you can drive it upside down! Looks good.

I always wanted to do that. I came close with my traxxas 1/16.

 

[DamianRC]

It's a fun little car. Always puts a smile on my kisser. I guess that's the most important thing.

A little taller tires and you can drive it upside down! Looks good.

There's an idea.

 

[Greywolf74]

The taller the tire, the bigger your rollout is going to be. The bigger the rollout, the higher the top speed. Of course this puts a bigger strain on your electronics too.

If you want to counteract it bottoming out too easy then the better course of action would be to put heavier shock oil in your shocks.

 

[DamianRC]

Thanks Greywolf. I'll give it a go.

 

[WickedFog]

If you want to counteract it bottoming out too easy then the better course of action would be to put heavier shock oil in your shocks.

My fix for that might actually be to add more pre-load on the springs, or use stiffer springs. Too heavy of an oil will make the shocks less responsive (slow to rebound). Of course, he may be running too light of an oil already, or not enough oil, so who's to say.

Shock tuning takes a bit of tweaking of pre-load, oil weight, spring rate, etc. But bottoming out in my experience has been fixed more with spring adjustment than oil weight. I can't tell by the pic if those shock springs are adjustable, but if they are, there is zero pre-load.

If they are adjustable, adjust the spring collars down til you get the truck landing the way you want. Do the front, then the rear.

 

[Bogda89]

My fix for that might actually be to add more pre-load on the springs, or use stiffer springs. Too heavy of an oil will make the shocks less responsive (slow to rebound). Of course, he may be running too light of an oil already, or not enough oil, so who's to say.

Shock tuning takes a bit of tweaking of pre-load, oil weight, spring rate, etc. But bottoming out in my experience has been fixed more with spring adjustment than oil weight. I can't tell by the pic if those shock springs are adjustable, but if they are, there is zero pre-load.

If they are adjustable, adjust the spring collars down til you get the truck landing the way you want. Do the front, then the rear.

To reduce bottoming out it's the best to do a combination of stiffer springs and thicker oil. Obviously, that will affect handling. But in reality no matter how stiff you go if you do big jumps car will bottom out. But it is still better to chassis slap than to transfer all weight on arms shocks and shock tower if suspension can not fully squat until chassis touches ground

 

[WickedFog]

To reduce bottoming out it's the best to do a combination of stiffer springs and thicker oil. Obviously, that will affect handling. But in reality no matter how stiff you go if you do big jumps car will bottom out. But it is still better to chassis slap than to transfer all weight on arms shocks and shock tower if suspension can not fully squat until chassis touches ground

Yeah, there is no ideal tuning for all conditions. I am just suggesting some pre-load because his springs are all the way at the top of the shock body. Without a video of his truck running, all we can do is guess at what his fix would be. But I'd start with a simple spring adjustment before I tear the shock down to change the oil, even if that means coming up with some spacers if the shock springs are not adjustable.

 

[DamianRC]

Thanks for the replies guys. The shocks are adjustable. The car also came with shock rings that you could put on to the shock arms. They came in 3 different depths. For a small car it is quite heavy. I will get it weighed. Epic little car.
Just out of interest. Pinions. For example, would there be a significant speed difference between a 15t and a 20t.

 

[WickedFog]

Just out of interest. Pinions. For example, would there be a significant speed difference between a 15t and a 20t.

Yes, but there would also be a significant difference in electronic temps. You have already put bigger tires on, which changes your final drive ratio a lot. And I will be surprised if your temps aren't running significantly hotter already, even with the added fan. If you went to a 20t pinion, I'd bet money you'll burn up your motor, if it isn't already close to doing so.

Just for chits and giggles, did you adjust your slipper after swapping tires? Have you checked the motor/esc temps? You're making all the rookie moves, and unless you want to start replacing electronics, I'd be getting an infrared temp gun.

 

[Bogda89]

I would definitely change gearing. Motors don't like to be over geared, I am pretty sure that with factory tires and gearing it was already pushed to the max.

On my sct for example I have 17.5 turn motor and I was running 27 tooth pinion. Our track is technical and motor didn't like it all. It was running in very inefficient rpm range and run time was shorter than my truggy with 10.5t motor. It was also lazy at low speeds and had a feeling that has a torque delay until it winds up to higher speed. Reduced to 23 tooth and made huge difference