Hyper 7 PBS arrived today :)

[Jeep]

Thanks for the break-in , and pull start advice, but when I was about 6 yrs old I was introduced to pull start engines, weed eaters, 2 and 4 stroke lawn mowers, roto tillers, etc, etc my dad had a rental store for home owners/contractors, I worked for him for about 15 years,,and I certainly rewound my share of pull starts, even now I can tune a kick start Harley such that I can start it by hand ,,by the way,,if your Pull start rope doesn't return, just give it a lil jiggle or 2, and maybe rotate the engine a bit,,it'll crawl back as long as the wound return spring isn't broken.
As for the break in procedure, i've built more car and bike engines than I can count, and I'm a firm believer in keeping the temp down during the first several runs and letting the engine get back to ambient temp. ( I have a temp reader ordered)

The only concept about these engines that is new to me is the "pinch" of the cylinder on the piston near tdc, but it makes sense from a nitro/diesel engine standpoint. And the feeding of fuel through the center of the crank output shaft.

Thanks

Jeep

 

[ZANDOR]

All has been answered here
http://https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37506

 

[Revo Rancher]

Jeep, just thought of something. The .28 will not be race legal unless it is an un-sanctioned race.

But, like VB said, my buggy came with the wrong label on the box, too. Turned out to be exactly what I wanted, just freaked me out for a bit.

It does look like the buggy in the second link was sent to you. I know you waited 12 days, but if you really wanted the other one hold ACE to the order you made. I think you will be happy regardless and congratulations on a great new buggy! Good choice, and nice looking, too!

 

[Jeep]

I asked about the engine in particular, and nothing was answered about it

Jeep

 

[Jeep]

Revo, I'm plenty tickled as it is,,as I said I'm 40 years old and I've already rolled it around making high pitched 2 stroke nitro sounds, lmao,
But seeing it's a BB .28 I guess I should lower the pitch of the sounds a bit

My fuel will be here Thursday and I've already ran it to about 20,000 rpms just by voice tone,,LMAO!

Jeep

 

[XXChAoTiCXX]

Alright, well if the engine is anything like the .21 is, then it's a pain. You will probably have to use the pullstart, as the box won't have enough torque to turn the new engine over. The recommended settings for break-in are way too rich, and you'll never get her to start with them. You'll want to have your LSN (low speed needle) set to flush with it's case, as well as the idle needle. The HSN (high speed needle) should be at two turns in from flush. One turn = 360 degrees. These are the factory settings for the Force .28 engine, which I am assuming is the same engine you have, just OFNA, not HoBao. You will have to heat the block up with a hairdryer to about 180F, and also squirt some After Run Oil down the throat of the carb. Also, it may be neccesary to loosen the glow plug a turn or so to lower the compression in the motor. Leaving the glow plug ignitor on the the plug after she is running may help keep her going too. This is all to get her started. Which method you use to get her broke in is up to you. I have only done it once, and I used the heat-cycle method, as recommended to me by the guys on this forum. I had a lot of trouble, I broke a pullstart on my first go at it. The pullstart takes only a little snap of the wrist. It is NOT like a lawnmower, or even a chainsaw. The spring inside is very delicate, and I spent a few hours trying to wind mine back into it's casing before I shot myself in the head. (Or deeply wanted to that is...) You will need a temp gun for pretty much any method you use, and unless you are a veteran nitro guy I would strongly recommend it. I don't know what temps you want for a .28. I know the larger the engine, the lower the running temps, but I do know you will want it at least at 200F or higher to break it in.
Another mahor point to remember is to return the piston to BDC (Bottom Dead Center) while the engine is cooling. This should become a habit for you, as you should always do this after a run. The most accurate way to find BDC is remove the glow plug, and gently place a stick on the top of the piston. Then rotate the flywheel counter-clockwise (from the engines front perspective) untli the chopstick is at it's lowest point. When you have it there, you can take a knife or something sharp and make a scratch on the flywheel to show where BDC is. If this is too much, then you can just loosen the plug, and rotate the flywheel counter-clockwise until it is at it's easiest to move point, then that is close to BDC.
Anyways, enough blabber from me, just give it a shot, and don't expect the world on your first go. Once you are through your first tank, it just gets easier from there. Good Luck!!!

 

[Jeep]

Thanks for the info Chaotic,
the time you took on this is very much appreciated, in fact you gave much info that I already had from the reading I've done and past and current experience I have with engines in general and in detail.

So, which glowplug does the Force 28 run normally?
What's the situation with "long" or "standard" plugs,,what heat range plug is it that should be first used to get a reading on the plug?

Jeep

 

[jcchase]

Jeep, It looks to me that you were sent this RTR Buggy instead of the Hyper 7 PBS you ordered. Or you got a top secret Hyper 7 that was leaked to Ace Hardware Hobbies.

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=18_33&products_id=10254

 

[Revo Rancher]

How many tanks did you get through, verbally?!? :buggy1:

 

[Revo Rancher]

Jeep stick with what they gave you.

The bigger the motor the cooler teh plug, typically, although there are no strict standards for anything in this hobby.

BTW, what fuel and % do you plan to use?

 

[Candyman]

***double post. Threads merged.***

 

[Jeep]

Revo,
I kinda assumed the other way around on the glow plug, I figured that the smaller engine turning faster and build more heat would require a cooler plug than a larger engine,,but , that's why I asked,,I rarely act on any assumption Thanks for the info.
As for fuel, I was a bit limited o selection in trying to order several items from the same company, I ordered the Trinity Monster Horsepower 20% nitro 18% lube. I'm going to give it a try and baby it on break-in with the heat cycle process which is very similar to how I treat Harley engines that I rebuild.
I received my fuel and temp reading sensor today and emailed ofna about any particular details on the Hyper Mach 28 engine. I plan on first start up early saturday morning.
Also, another question, the glow plug has 2 copper washers with it, do I use both? or only one, and the other being a spare?
Any recommendations for a glow plug heat range for a .28 engine?
And what is a "long" plug as opposed to a "standard" plug?

Thanks for the info and patience guys.

Jeep

 

[Jeep]

How many tanks did you get through, verbally?!? :buggy1:

Revo,
I burnt about 4 tanks of vocal chords,,lmao
But I ran plenty of "after vocal run" oil through it for protection,,

Jeep

 

[Revo Rancher]

Revo,
I burnt about 4 tanks of vocal chords,,lmao
But I ran plenty of "after vocal run" oil through it for protection,,

Jeep

Too funny, LMAOROTFL!!

Just use one plug washer. Also, call Rob at Nitrohouse.com and ask him a couple of quick questions about yor umill. I am not familiar with that one so I would hate to speculate when giving you advice. Your fuel sounds ok, although Rob will tell you to use Byrons 2500.